New Railway Modellers Forums

That all sounds a bit of hammer and walnut! Think I'll stick with motors powered through CDU with LEDs powered separately. Lots more wiring but possibly easier to fault-find if necessary. Would I be right in thinking that with separate PSUs and with the LEDs connected to tags D,E and F on the PM1 t...

What is being described is sometimes called "Cutting its own throat" (power) as the point motor operated switch uses its own contact to feed and cut off the coils power. That was fine when contacts as on the very old H & M motors were built like 'outside toilet blocks' but todays light...

Now that I think I have the motor wiring worked out in my head I am turning my thoughts to how to best show on the control board which way the points are configured. I am assuming this is traditionally done by LEDs showing the "connected/ live" route. In order to keep matters as simple as...

Laptop PSUs are Regulated DC Not AC. They will frequently also provide somewhere between 3 and 5 Amps. The higher voltage is why your GM500 work correctly. As I had previously stated, if you had linked out the two resistors the GM500 12volt relays would have worked on the original 12v DC But there y...

PM1 / PM4 switching always makes be smile.... Its so simple - A washer pressed down onto the PCB by a spring and that moves left or right by the drive pin moving and the washer makes connection C to D or C to E tabs via the PCB tracks. I agree, all Seep PM1 to 4 range are a pain to get working if no...

Now spoken to Gaugemaster who recommend a 16v ac supply as the ideal. 12v not enough, 24v probably too high. As Suzie suggested the motor is grabbing the power first, leaving not enough to shift the relay. Looks like another order! Incidentally your enquiry about the bus wires gave me an idea and I...

Hi As you're feeding the solenoids directly with 12v DC and you are 100% sure positive is going to Pads A & B as a momentary pulse, then I would temporary link out both the GM500 resistors. After you have checked ** below. Use a couple of paper clips or anything that's metal or even a stripped b...

So the saga continues. I have bought 3x Gaugemaster GM500 relays and installed two of them. They don't work - correction, they don’t work for ME! The wiring of the switch side is pretty simple, basically connections direct to the (Peco) point motor. So a wire to each side of the solenoids which con...

manna wrote:G'Day Gents

I like those figures, very life like, much better than some of the Airfix figures I still have upon my layout, they must be at least 50 years old !!

manna

The Airfix (Now Dapol) figures have there place and at least they do not like Anorexic people as many cheaper figures do!

There are two wires on the tender connector loco side. One wire is on the V shaped contacts and the other on the fingers. If you still have one wire connected then the missing ones position is where your black wire connects onto.

Assuming this is your loco?

I received my non sound non DCC Fitted Bachmann Class 66 Evening Star before Christmas from Rails of Sheffield . Sorry Ive no idea on DCC Fitted or Sound Fitted versions.

I would have thought that the correct approach would be to contact Hatton's and ask them. If they don't know no one will!

Sorry guys but the HAT PM1 does not include any motor operated switching. See.. https://www.hattons.co.uk/185267/hatton ... etail.aspx

Forgot to add: Flashbang - thanks for the pointer to the GM500 relays. As for the microswitches, the cost of PL-10/PL-13/GM500 is building up but then I have already swallowed some of that cost. The GM500's look as though they would help me rescue my remaining Peco motors. Indeed they would. Look o...

I am a total beginner and starting an N gauge 4' x 2' layout to learn the basics. Is there a company that provides a service in looking at one's proposed layout and advising on the correct wiring set up (I would like to avoid damaging anything from short circuits !!! ) and on the correct DCC contro...