New Railway Modellers Forums

I assume Live Steam is exactly like DC, in that one loco on one track with one controller? If so, then for a second loco to run on another track a second duplication of the first setup would be needed. But they are not connected together. My comment assumed only one loco/one track/one controller :D ...

What happens if all the output wires are removed from the four terminals and the unit is then plugged in and powered up? Does the red LED illuminate then?

To fit a stay alive capacitor to any Hornby decoder requires some very careful soldering on the decoders PCB!

This gives the details of what needs doing... https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/post/view/topic_id/13404/?p=2

Hi Assuming your Live Steam bus pair of wires are of a suitable wire gauge size, then only one pair of wires are need and they run in a radial circuit not a ring. No need for a second pair of feeds or any extra circuits, but the bus pair wire size must be adequate. Minimum I would recommend is 1.5mm...

Assuming the red LED is lit on the PCP and with the LED at the bottom the flat cable is plugged into the left hand socket and the display on the PowerCab is lit and showing. Wait 20 or so seconds then....Unplugging the cable from the handset and wait a couple of seconds then re insert it. The displa...

Hi
If your points are Peco consider replacing the Seep with a Peco PL10 and mount that directly to the Peco points underside. If they are Hornby points use the Hornby R8014 Both fitting into a slot cut in the baseboard surface but fit directly to the points

Glad you have fond some even cheaper. The link I provided was of course an example, with time and Google I'm sure cheaper can and as shown be found! Hope they cut as well as they say.

Link 1

Link 2

Or the ultimate but far more expensive...
Link 3

I found this video quite interesting testing various speakers with one sound decoder https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErXaA4KZ9Ss

Track is quite soft by comparison to the drive pins so I wouldn't. Mini drill and cutting disk is the tool for solenoid drive pins, everything else that I can think of seems to either wreck itself or wreck the motor. I'm sure Flashbang will agree unless he knows of something else. <SNIP> I've used ...

Here is my Seep motor centering tool. Cost £ zero (Mrs FB hasn't notice I pinched one of her pegs!). :o Note the wider slot one side to go over the Seeps spring and the narrow slot on the other side for the drive pin I can't take credit for the design, as it was published a while ago, but It is so s...

Depends on how you want to operate the servos?
The 100 is a stand alone unit for 4 Servos, it needs a separate 12volt supply and then the supplied panel/toggle switches move the servo arms.
For DCC (Digital) operation then the 135 decoder is need as well. This interfaces the DCC to the 100 board

Hi A loose drive pin can be tapped back into the solenoids main rod. A lot of Seeps suffered drive pins that fell out or became loose. They are a push in fit from new and have a sort of splined area which grips onto the main rod. Tapping the drive pin back into place should tighten it. But do this c...

Actuator? Do you mean the Seeps drive pin? If so, it should be a tight fit in the Seeps moving round rod/bar, that moves each way into each coil. If the drive pin is loose try giving it a gentle tap downwards while holding the Seep. This should drive the pin into the Seeps rod more securely. :D A) W...

Hi Seep PM1 are notorious for needing to be fitted 100% accurately under the point. The only way I've ever found of ensuring this is as follows.... Remove Seep from baseboard. Then above and with the point in its final position, at one outside end of the points moving tie bar drill a 1mm dia hole in...