Peco LK55 Turntable, DCC & Auto Reverser Module

[centenary]

Is the Peco LK55 what is known as a 'split ring' bridge turntable and, when wired for DCC track power, does it need an auto reverser?

The instructions do not refer to it as being a split ring TT as far as I can see while diagram 8 does show two separate half insulated power connectors. All the wiring appears to be for DC operation only.

[Peterm]

Yes it is. I use one with a slo mo motor. If it shorts when turning just change the track feed wires over.

[Bigmet]

Is the Peco LK55 what is known as a 'split ring' bridge turntable and, when wired for DCC track power, does it need an auto reverser?

As above, it certainly is split ring, and there is no need for an auto reverser with DCC, as the split ring switches the rails. Should be arranged such that there is no access to the bridge when the split ring break is being passed, as the bridge is isolated from power at this point so nothing can move on or off it. DCC sound stops at this point of course, which bothers some, but not me as the soundtrack of steam is playing in my head.

The sole problems I have had with this TT:
the turntable pit flexes under load while rotating if heavyweight models (Heljan 2-8-0, Loco drive 9F, metal bodied pacifics, center moter twin bogie traction,etc.) are on it. A support beam underneath to take the load at the pivot point fixed this,
The rails on the bridge can creep and protrude causing fouling, a couple of dabs of cyano, one per rail at the centre, fixed this.

[Peterm]

Yes, I'd forgotten about that rail creep. Out comes the super glue. Thanks for reminding me.

[Bigmet]

The 'niggle' with this turntable is that it is oversize for the UK railway*. The maximum bridge length was 70 feet, and this would turn'everything' in UK tender locomotives, (provided the tender was fully coaled and watered as most had balance bridges with the load taken on the centre bearing). I have in mind a project to build another kit and shorten the (very good) bridge and build a right size pit, 'someday' and have stashed a spare of the very satisfactory 'Como' motor and gear set which operates the functioning oversize turntable very neatly. I had initially thought of indexing, but actually driving the table round to correct alignment on the old Duette is so simple as not to require any such sophistication.

*The leading UK builders of locos for export - thinking North British and Beyer Garratt here - might well have had something larger st the works?

[Flashbang]

The video here may help with the understanding of the Peco TT which does as stated, have a split ring rail feed https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC-Pag ... turntables

[Mike Parkes]

The 'niggle' with this turntable is that it is oversize for the UK railway*. The maximum bridge length was 70 feet, and this would turn'everything' in UK tender locomotives, (provided the tender was fully coaled and watered as most had balance bridges with the load taken on the centre bearing).

Simple solution to that unless modelling a prototype location is that a rail served military based existed nearby and the turntable was upgraded in WWII to cater for larger locomotives.

[Bigmet]

Simple solution to that unless modelling a prototype location is that a rail served military based existed nearby and the turntable was upgraded in WWII to cater for larger locomotives.

Did this actually occur in the UK? AFAIK the limit was 70' on the rail network

[centenary]

Thanks all. The next knee trebling task is to cut a perfectly round 310mm hole in my baseboard with my jigsaw that's more 'jig' than saw!

[Bigmet]

The next knee trembling task is to cut a perfectly round 310mm hole in my baseboard...

Before commencing on the knee trembling, check that the baseboard top is dead level by rotating a spirit level on the proposed site.

[centenary]

The next knee trembling task is to cut a perfectly round 310mm hole in my baseboard...

Before commencing on the knee trembling, check that the baseboard top is dead level by rotating a spirit level on the proposed site.

As built with adjustable legs and a meter long spirit level!

[Free_at_last]

Thanks all. The next knee trebling task is to cut a perfectly round 310mm hole in my baseboard with my jigsaw that's more 'jig' than saw!

I screwed my jigsaw to a piece of ply with a pivot the distance of the radius, pics should explain...

I screwed a batten underneath the hole to stop the centre falling out, moving it round as the cut progressed.

[centenary]

Thanks all. The next knee trebling task is to cut a perfectly round 310mm hole in my baseboard with my jigsaw that's more 'jig' than saw!

I screwed my jigsaw to a piece of ply with a pivot the distance of the radius, pics should explain...

01 Jigsaw 2.jpg

02 Jigsaw.jpg
I screwed a batten underneath the hole to stop the centre falling out, moving it round as the cut progressed.

03 Tuntable hole.jpg

Screenshot 2025-03-28 204943.png

Nice one! Ive been looking at a couple of YT vids how to make a similar jig.

The first pic looks like a B&D jigsaw similar to mine. Im curious about the 2 big screws \ bolts that go through your jig and appear to go into the metal shoe \ soulbar of the jigsaw. Did you have to drill the metal shoe or is the jig attached another way?

[Free_at_last]

Nice one! Ive been looking at a couple of YT vids how to make a similar jig.

The first pic looks like a B&D jigsaw similar to mine. Im curious about the 2 big screws \ bolts that go through your jig and appear to go into the metal shoe \ soulbar of the jigsaw. Did you have to drill the metal shoe or is the jig attached another way?

IIRC the (B&D) jigsaw came with an adjustable guide that fitted to the bottom with 5mm screws, so the threaded holes were already there..

[centenary]

Nice one! Ive been looking at a couple of YT vids how to make a similar jig.

The first pic looks like a B&D jigsaw similar to mine. Im curious about the 2 big screws \ bolts that go through your jig and appear to go into the metal shoe \ soulbar of the jigsaw. Did you have to drill the metal shoe or is the jig attached another way?

IIRC the (B&D) jigsaw came with an adjustable guide that fitted to the bottom with 5mm screws, so the threaded holes were already there..

Just checked the base plate on mine and, yes, it does have two holes! Never noticed them before! Looks like I'll be using an offcut of 12mm ply to make my jig and screw it to the bottom of the jigsaw.

Many thanks indeed!