My Model Railway Journey.

[CarlP]

It’s been suggested that I post my experiences here with my new to me model railway.

I have a long story. Are you sitting comfortably, then I shall begin.

I’m not a modeller, but I like the idea, I like looking at train models from time to time, but I have never owned a train set, which thinking about it now, is odd ‘cos I’m in my sixties.

Anyway, back in 2009 my FIL died, and his wife was going to chuck his train stuff in the skip. Well, I could see that although it wasn’t a top notch display, he’d spent a lot of time and money on it.

It was, still is, a Hornby Flying Scotsman set, with the photo track display that you lay on a base board, which he had built and it had quit a bit of real estate and rolling stock and other locomotives.

I had nowhere to put it, but I couldn’t let get thrown in the skip, so I borrowed a van, collected base board and all the bits took it home and propped the board up against the garage wall covered up, boxed up all the bits and that’s where it stayed for 5 years. Until we moved house. Then the removal men packed everything up, put it all to the new garage, where it stayed for another 10 years!

A few weeks ago, I finally gotten round to getting the board and bits out of the garage and set up in the house.

And so it begins and so do some challenges.

The first challenge was having got the baseboard out of the garage, I couldn’t find the transformers to connect to the controllers, i new I had them, just couldn’t find them. I thought they were in the loft but the Fragrant MrsP insisted that they were not. (More on that subject later.

So, I did some research and found what I was told are compatible transformers, ordered them.
Whilst waiting for them I set about having a bit of a clean up of the board, track and points and have sort out of what I have.

The list
Flying Scotsman. R2441 with four coaches as per the original set

A GWR 040T (I think).

Mainline Railways Class 6600 0-6-2T B.R Black Livery*

Mainline Railways Rebuilt Scot Class LMS ( Preserved) Crimson. *

* these two items need some serious work on them.
Various carriages and rolling stock
Spare tracks
Various buildings in various styles inc Skaledale, and plastic Hornby buildings, footbridge, platforms, walls.
Various people, dogs, animals in different scales.
And miscellaneous items.
Trackmat as per the original kit
Two controllers.

The FIL laid the track with an extra track where the siding was supposed to be, which meant there was track going through the station on the track mat. No idea why he did that. See not very good photo, see red arrows.

There’s also something else added not on the trackmat, which I didn’t notice until the weekend. ( more on that later too).

That’ll probably do for now, it’s approaching TLDR territory.

I’d be interested in your observations or questions.

[Dad-1]

First a question : You've not powered it up yet ?

Before you try running anything I'd suggest the track needs cleaning to obtain a decent
electrical connection between locomotive wheels and the track crown.
DO NOT USE coarse sand paper, or wet-n-dry. You can buy, quite cheap 'Track Rubbers'
and use one of them to bring the rail crown to a decent shine.

Many train-set users plug a Hornby connector under the rails, these clip in and have
their uses. This can work on temporarily placed track that is not attached to a fixed base.
When attached to a firm base we recommend hard wired connections, usually with what
we call a bus, that is a wire running around the track and have if at all possible connections
to each & every piece of track. This means all the track has a full power feed, rather than
relying on the rail joiners that can become loose and fail to fully connect.

More to say as you progress.

Geoff T.

[Dublo]

Welcome to the wonderful world of Railway Modelling, Carl.
Hopefully your Baseboard has survived and is suitably braced and nice and flat. Essential for good track laying.
I totally agree a Track Rubber should be one of your first purchases. Well cleaned track and good electrical conductivity are essential for good running. I would also invest in some Oil, I've no doubt that everything will need a drop.

[CarlP]

First a question : You've not powered it up yet ?

<snip>
Geoff T.

Not at the time of writing, I’m a couple of days behind with the report, all will become clear.
I have a track rubber, which was in the box of stuff that came with the layout. Track is clean.

[CarlP]

Welcome to the wonderful world of Railway Modelling, Carl.
Hopefully your Baseboard has survived and is suitably braced and nice and flat. Essential for good track laying.
I totally agree a Track Rubber should be one of your first purchases. Well cleaned track and good electrical conductivity are essential for good running. I would also invest in some Oil, I've no doubt that everything will need a drop.

The baseboard is flat, and typical of my FIL slightly over engineered.
I have plenty of oil as a result of servicing my bicycles, I’ve read that a tiny drop of 3in1 is just the job.

[aleopardstail]

run with it, enjoy the ride. last time I started with OO thats the set I started with (layout was different in the end). its a good set, and that mix should all serve you well.

bit of field maintenance and all should run fine (bit of light oil, some suitable grease for gears), sewing machine oil is good, need to be careful though as some oils are not good for plastics

enjoy experimentifications

[CarlP]

run with it, enjoy the ride. last time I started with OO thats the set I started with (layout was different in the end). its a good set, and that mix should all serve you well.

bit of field maintenance and all should run fine (bit of light oil, some suitable grease for gears), sewing machine oil is good, need to be careful though as some oils are not good for plastics

enjoy experimentifications

“experimentifications” good word.

[aleopardstail]

run with it, enjoy the ride. last time I started with OO thats the set I started with (layout was different in the end). its a good set, and that mix should all serve you well.

bit of field maintenance and all should run fine (bit of light oil, some suitable grease for gears), sewing machine oil is good, need to be careful though as some oils are not good for plastics

enjoy experimentifications

“experimentifications” good word.

if often involves magic smoke

[Dad-1]

I always thought the Magic Smoke was a DCC extra ?

Geoff T

[aleopardstail]

I always thought the Magic Smoke was a DCC extra ?

Geoff T

it often is the case yes

[Mountain]

Regarding oil. Oil very little. Use model railway oil or sewing machine oil and try and avoid oiling motors unless it is a last resort, as the slightest bit of oil on the motor brushes and one will be spending ages opening up the motor to clean the thing (Usually cleaning more than once) to get the loco to run!
Those Mainline models have split chassis which just need their wheel contacts cleaned. Carefully undo the screws on the underside of the locos (The two or three screws that look the same. Do not undo the others) and undo the screws holding the couplings on, and the plastic underside should drop out. You may need to remove any pony wheels as well via their screw. Careful if a spring is involved incase it dissapears.
One then should have access to the U shaped slots where the wheels go. Use electrical cleaning alcohol or similar to give these a clean and clean the corresponding parts of the driving wheel axles. I have used some worn fine grade abrazive paper to clean the U slots but electrical cleaning alcohol is better).
Once these wheel pick-up areas on the split chassis are cleaned, those locos should run lovely!

[CarlP]

Regarding oil. Oil very little. Use model railway oil or sewing machine oil and try and avoid oiling motors unless it is a last resort, as the slightest bit of oil on the motor brushes and one will be spending ages opening up the motor to clean the thing (Usually cleaning more than once) to get the loco to run!

That’s good advice thank you.

Those Mainline models have split chassis which just need their wheel contacts cleaned. Carefully undo the screws on the underside of the locos (The two or three screws that look the same. Do not undo the others) and undo the screws holding the couplings on, and the plastic underside should drop out. You may need to remove any pony wheels as well via their screw. Careful if a spring is involved incase it disappears.

I will pay special attention to the screws and springs. I have previous, crawling around on concrete garage floors looking for Sturmey Archer pawl springs!

One then should have access to the U shaped slots where the wheels go. Use electrical cleaning alcohol or similar to give these a clean and clean the corresponding parts of the driving wheel axles. I have used some worn fine grade abrazive paper to clean the U slots but electrical cleaning alcohol is better).
Once these wheel pick-up areas on the split chassis are cleaned, those locos should run lovely!

Thanks for that information , fortunately for me my FIL kept the boxes and the info/instruction leaflets for these, along with your tips I should be able give them a service. Unfortunately the coupling rods/side rods on the Scot Class LMS have broken off and are missing.
They are lovely looking trains and lots of detail on them for over 40 years old.

[Bigmet]

Those Mainline models have split chassis which just need their wheel contacts cleaned.

Very gently! IPA (Propanol) is best. Don't abrade the contacting surfaces, they wear away the essential plating to maintain goor electrical conduction from rail to the motor supply straps quickly enough when running. If you can scoop out any of the grease lurking between chassis halves and keep it, tiny smears on the stub axles after the cleaning do the lube job, saves having to buy any plastics compatible grease.

They are lovely looking trains and lots of detail on them for over 40 years old.

Between Airfix GMR, Mainline Replica and Dapol, there was significant RTR OO production sourced from China which disturbed the Triang-Hornby near monopoly on RTR OO steam. Much superior external appearance, but the split chassis mechanisms proved to wear out much more quickly; however a few models - such as my favourite the Airfix GMR originated N2 'Big Met' tank - will go on forever, as they have a more conventional steel axle wheelsets with wiper pick up mechanism construction, and a real thug of a motor. Some information in this most useful site.
http://www.mainlinerailways.org.uk/

What happened next was Bachmann picking up where Mainline and Replica left off; Bach's early steam models based on the Mainline and Replica body mouldings also looked great, and a better split chassis mechanism design with a really effective can motor looked like good news. But the better motor, and the enthusiastic operation it supported, only lead to more rapid wear out of the conducting plating... Try and avoid being seduced by these, many still look good at anything between 15 and 35 years old, but 'fall apart city' lurks.

Bachmann having established that there was demand for better RTR OO marched out a series of steam loco models with a conventional steel axle wheelsets, wiper pick up and can motors driving multi stage gear train mechanism construction; while the twin bogie diesels got another real thug of a motor in the Athearn originated design of an all wheel drive and pick up mechanism in a heavyweight cast block. If any type of twin bogie traction is in your future, these will be a pleasant surprise: they will haul a train that completely fills the layout circuit.

Enjoy!

[CarlP]

As mentioned above, we couldn’t find the transformers for the controls, so I preferred some new ones having checked that they were compatible. When they arrived I had power to the track but when I tried the locos the power was inconsistent, the trains were running too fast, and/or slowing and speeding off again. I also discovered that the little GWR 040 loco sounded like it had a load of marbles in it, later I found that the worm wheel had worn. I ordered a new worm wheel and all is good with that little train.

Also the Flying Scotsman wasn’t working very well, i subsequently discovered that the wheels needed drive tyres! ( who knew!). I bought and put on some drive tyres on the wheels, and the train ran better, I was hoping that might answer my power problem, but to avail.

My wife, who has a very good understanding of electrical stuff, suggested we buy two new basic horny controllers, when they arrived that sorted out the power problem. The two trains ran very well.

Later, my wife up in the loft looking for some thing else found more stuff in a box that had fallen behind something, including the original transformers, so now I have two original transformers and controllers and two new ones!

So, at the moment I have the old transformers and controllers running the layout…for now.
However, there was, and still is some challenges with the track power, though working, there’s an intermittent cutting off. It may have something to do with my FIL’s wiring, and also there’s a toggle switch in between the two controllers which we can’t work out is purpose, because when we switch it, the results seem to be random.

In the meantime, I removed the extra bit of track and points the FIL added, i thought it looked a bit rubbish on the track mat.
I wanted to get all the real estate out and locos and set up everything as I imagined the FIL May have have had it 15 years ago and have some fun with it. So, here’s a couple of photos of where we’re at so far. Please ignore the power connecting clip, that was on there to try something out. Also, the two Oxford Diecast vehicles by the crossing are my additions, I couldn’t resist them when I saw them in the shop in Alton.

[CarlP]

Those Mainline models have split chassis which just need their wheel contacts cleaned.

Very gently! IPA (Propanol) is best. Don't abrade the contacting surfaces, they wear away the essential plating to maintain goor electrical conduction from rail to the motor supply straps quickly enough when running. If you can scoop out any of the grease lurking between chassis halves and keep it, tiny smears on the stub axles after the cleaning do the lube job, saves having to buy any plastics compatible grease.

They are lovely looking trains and lots of detail on them for over 40 years old.

Between Airfix GMR, Mainline Replica and Dapol, there was significant RTR OO production sourced from China which disturbed the Triang-Hornby near monopoly on RTR OO steam. Much superior external appearance, but the split chassis mechanisms proved to wear out much more quickly; however a few models - such as my favourite the Airfix GMR originated N2 'Big Met' tank - will go on forever, as they have a more conventional steel axle wheelsets with wiper pick up mechanism construction, and a real thug of a motor. Some information in this most useful site.
http://www.mainlinerailways.org.uk/

What happened next was Bachmann picking up where Mainline and Replica left off; Bach's early steam models based on the Mainline and Replica body mouldings also looked great, and a better split chassis mechanism design with a really effective can motor looked like good news. But the better motor, and the enthusiastic operation it supported, only lead to more rapid wear out of the conducting plating... Try and avoid being seduced by these, many still look good at anything between 15 and 35 years old, but 'fall apart city' lurks.

Bachmann having established that there was demand for better RTR OO marched out a series of steam loco models with a conventional steel axle wheelsets, wiper pick up and can motors driving multi stage gear train mechanism construction; while the twin bogie diesels got another real thug of a motor in the Athearn originated design of an all wheel drive and pick up mechanism in a heavyweight cast block. If any type of twin bogie traction is in your future, these will be a pleasant surprise: they will haul a train that completely fills the layout circuit.

Enjoy!

Thankyou for that information and the very interesting Mainline link.