Cobalt IP digital DCC Turnout fitting template

[potatan]

I'm looking at using these when I get to that point in my build, but I'm currently laying track down and want to get holes drilled in the correct place so I can go back later and plumb in the turnout motors.

I've searched for dimensions and templates but all I find are the mounting kits, or the package dimensions.

Please could someone let me have a description of the dimensions, particularly where the motor mounts to the underside of the baseboard? Or an annotated picture with the screw-slots marked on so I know if I'm going to foul any other structures on the layout (including other motors). Thanks.

Edit: I'm building an N Gauge layout

[centenary]

I'm looking at using these when I get to that point in my build, but I'm currently laying track down and want to get holes drilled in the correct place so I can go back later and plumb in the turnout motors.

I've searched for dimensions and templates but all I find are the mounting kits, or the package dimensions.

Please could someone let me have a description of the dimensions, particularly where the motor mounts to the underside of the baseboard? Or an annotated picture with the screw-slots marked on so I know if I'm going to foul any other structures on the layout (including other motors). Thanks.

If you're quick, you may bag this 3D printed template for IP Analogs & Digital point motors. I got one and found it very useful. You position it on top of the track points and carefully drill pilot holes for the central throw bar and fixing screws. Lift the point then dril an 8 to 10mm hole for the central throw bar. Be careful not to drill the fixing screw holes too big else the DCC Concepts screws wont hold the IP A or Ds in position.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404085546779

[potatan]

Thanks but I'm using N Gauge and the holes in the tie bar are on the edges of the track, not in the centre, plus the track guides on this item won't work for me. Though I understand the point motors themselves are interchangeable between OO/N. I'll udpate the original post for clarity

[centenary]

Thanks but I'm using N Gauge and the holes in the tie bar are on the edges of the track, not in the centre, plus the track guides on this item won't work for me. Though I understand the point motors themselves are interchangeable between OO/N. I'll udpate the original post for clarity

OK. Im quite busy today and tomorrow but will see if I can measure up the fixing holes and throw bar centres for IP As and Ds and post on here (unless someone beats me to it!).

[Flashbang]

Is not the DCC Concepts Cobalt fixing kit, which includes templates, not an option? At a just £9.95 including templates, two drill bits, a counter sink bit and six operating rods and motor fixing screws etc. Seems like a useful set??
https://railsofsheffield.com/products/d ... VNEALw_wcB

[potatan]

Is not the DCC Concepts Cobalt fixing kit, which includes templates, not an option? At a just £9.95 including templates, two drill bits, a counter sink bit and six operating rods and motor fixing screws etc. Seems like a useful set??
https://railsofsheffield.com/products/d ... VNEALw_wcB

Thanks but I already have those included tools and as far as I can tell each point motor comes with the relevant mounting pads/screws etc. I'm just trying to get ahead of the game by laying all the track and pre-drilling the motor lever-arm holes before I need to invest in a box of 12 x £25 point motors for retrofitting.

I've just found these measurements in the actual PDF manual for the points

Body only: 28mm x 38mm x 52mm deep
Top overall inc. fulcrum and tabs: 40mm x 45mm
Depth inc. soldering free connectors: 68mm

so if I take a worst-case of 45x45 for the base (actually the top when fitted under the layout) then I probably will be okay if I mock up a little card template to help with my track/cork laying, and make sure that doesn't foul anything else under the trackbed.

[potatan]

Thanks but I'm using N Gauge and the holes in the tie bar are on the edges of the track, not in the centre, plus the track guides on this item won't work for me. Though I understand the point motors themselves are interchangeable between OO/N. I'll udpate the original post for clarity

OK. Im quite busy today and tomorrow but will see if I can measure up the fixing holes and throw bar centres for IP As and Ds and post on here (unless someone beats me to it!).

I'm going to go with 45x45 mm after looking at the PDF manual for the item; I don't think I'll go far wrong with that. Anything you can throw my way that's more precise would be great though, thanks!

[centenary]

Couple of pictures based on the holes in the previously mentioned jig. The hole centers measurements are as close as my eyeballs can determine!

First picture: The distance across between the centers of the top 2 holes is 32mm. The distance between the centers of a top hole and a bottom hole is 26.5mm. If your centre is around 26mm or 27mm, I dont think you'll be far out!

If you draw a line between the top holes centers and then another perpendicular, to the centre of the large throw bar hole at the bottom of the jig, this distance is 38.5mm as can (hardly!) been seen in the 2nd picture. Again, if your measurement is 38 or 39mm, you wont be far out.



2nd picture.


I have used this jig on my OO scale track and have to say it's a nifty little tool for drilling pilot holes.Even if 1 of the 4 pilot holes for screws was out a little, 3 screws is more than enough to hold an IP A or D in position.

I would mention a word of caution though. The main hole is the one for the centralised throw bar (larger hole at bottom of jig). This one needs to be in the right position and so you can progressively step up the drill size to minimum 8mm so you get sufficient throw to switch the point blades. I should add 8mm is the minimum for OO scale points. I dont know if you could get away with slightly small for N?

Hope this helps!

[potatan]

I would mention a word of caution though. The main hole is the one for the centralised throw bar (larger hole at bottom of jig). This one needs to be in the right position and so you can progressively step up the drill size to minimum 8mm so you get sufficient throw to switch the point blades. I should add 8mm is the minimum for OO scale points. I dont know if you could get away with slightly small for N?

Hope this helps!

Thanks, fantastic! I'll knock up a jig from a bit of stiff card to help me with laying out.

On the points, I checked with a Peco ST-5 and the total throw looks to be less than 3mm - possibly 2.5mm as that seems an engineering number. Or maybe it's 2.54mm but neither my steel rule nor my eyesight are that accurate.

I'll go with a 6mm hole centred on the midpoint of the tiebar hole's movement and see what happens.

[Mike Parkes]

As Cobalts are stall motors provided you have it sensibly lined up the actual fixing position can be done by eye especially if you the option of turning the baseboard over.I have one in the corner of a fiddle yard working a point by a long rod and crank and that definately had not precise measureemnt of its location.If yo uare using Peco points its beneficial to remobve the over centre spring.

[centenary]

As Cobalts are stall motors provided you have it sensibly lined up the actual fixing position can be done by eye especially if you the option of turning the baseboard over.I have one in the corner of a fiddle yard working a point by a long rod and crank and that definately had not precise measureemnt of its location.If yo uare using Peco points its beneficial to remobve the over centre spring.

Yes, good point ('scuse the pun!). If the IP A \ D is located remotely, it wont need precise location measurement although the hole the throw bar goes through to attach to the point, whether at the side or middle of the sleeper, will still need to be precise.

DCC Concepts do sell in packs of 3, bellcranks so the IP A \ D can be positioned not directly under the point, say for example, if a wooden cross member was in the way. Fortunately, I didnt have need to buy them.