Long time reader, first time poster, novice modeller!
I'm looking to make a small OO gauge loft layout which could be moved to a shed in the future. Working within a space 6'0" by 5'10". Looking for advice on the best form for this to take, either as an oblong baseboard or in an L-shape. Continuous running isn't a requirement, and I'm possibly looking at basing it on a Highland Railway branch line terminus at Aberfeldy (below)
1. I do tend towards an oval of track with endings approach myself because I have tried and to end on a few times and can be fun for a day of two via shunting, but quickly gets boring especially when one is in a mood to properly run trains. (What I mean is to get a bit of reasonable speed up!)
I realize a visual oval can also be boring if not used with cleverly designed scenic breaks. Generally found layouts to be more interesting if trains actually are seen as having to go somewhere. A good book is "The Living Model Railway", though primarily about entire model railway networks, some of the ideas are inspiring. (Is based on a large 0 gauge layout but has useful ideas and concepts).
2. Try to limit oneself to smaller locos such as 0-4-0's and 0-6-0's and shorter wheelbase stock. Having an express train won't look right in a small space. But having a busy commuter terminus or through station on a city line that will warrant excessive traffic and look ok in a small space is a good option.
Other than that a branch line will be ok... But ideally needs a something easier to warrant a frequent busy service such as holiday traffic or an industry of some sort.
3. Have you considered the possibilities that narrow gauge has to offer? May not be for everyone but it offers an ideal space solution as one can add tight curves in a larger scale than one would otherwise expect. An example is that I am into 7mms narrow gauge (0-16.5, which is also known as 0e and 0n30). By chosing shorter smaller engines and rolling stock, I am able to turn on 2' wide boards, and yet I am modelling in 7mms scale (Same as 0) which I find easier to make things in. The track gauge is the same as 00 and H0 so I can convert budget locos up a scale and one can use 00/H0 track. Also make my own couplings to save cost, so I can it desired, make wagons for not much more than the cost of a pair of wheels and the glue and paint, as can use lollipop sticks, coffee sturers, tin can etc! Whatever is cheap or free!
009 is also popular and will also fit in a relatively small space. Has commercial ready to run interest as well though is not cheap for its size and I personally find the locos a little too small for my liking to work on.
That said, the really good thing is one can also mix it with H0e if desired as the difference between 4mm scale and 3.5mm scale is less noticeable in narrow gauge form, and they all share the same couplings as standard, and now there is quite a lot of commercial support as mainstream manufacturers have taken it on as being their next "Big thing" when it comes to expanding their sales.
But what I will say with going back to your design, is you want to compress your design quite a bit, is to try a U shaped layout. While I prefer ovals, a U shaped layout will get the two focus points on your plan to work, as there are two basic areas of track formation both separated from each other, and a U shaped may stand a chance to do this, but it will be very compressed and tight.
!001 modellers and 1001 different ideas.
First let's have a think about your space in a loft, with possible move to large shed.
How big is your loft hatch ? That will tend to be one limiting factor, because unless
you design it to be moved you may wreck too much to safely remove. In my loft I was
only just able to get my 12" (300 mm) wide boards in, the 6 foot lengths were also
close to the limit.
Then I suppose do you want to try & replicate a real place, or are you happy fully
free creating your own world. I do like the Aberfeldy plan as shown, but to get all that
pointwork into a fraction over 6 feet just won't work. What you can do is compress, but
try to keep the feel in an end to end format.
While we are discussing compressing I'd strongly recommend that you keep well clear
of Set-track points. These are shorter than the short Peco streamline, but the reduced
quality of running is just not worth taking the risk. I'd also implore you to use live frog
pointwork, the running of smaller locomotives is SO much better, even than Peco streamline
insulate versions of the same geometry.
Now our last poster says he tires of the end to end format, but nothing is more boring to
me than just setting something rolling on a very small roundy-roundy and then what ? where
is the driving in that ? My two most interesting layouts are small end to end shunting layouts
where they are puzzles with task cards and you have to be awake and thinking all the time as
well as constantly changing direction and routes.
I do have a small oval in my garage, but it still uses a full 36" wide and 72" long. For today's
locomotives this is a NO-NO as it uses 1st radius curves and the problematical set-track points.
An example of the limiting factors is my new sound fitted Rapido 0-6-0 Hunslet that will not go
around 1st radius curves. So yes it can be done - you will have to make the decision, but that
roundy I have would need to be on perhaps 4 boards to get in/out of your loft.
Also remember working on anything deeper that about 3 feet will be beyond arms reach for the
creation of scenery, which for me it the essence of having a model railway.
Dad-1 wrote: ↑Sun Sep 24, 2023 2:35 pm
I'd also implore you to use live frog pointwork, the running of smaller locomotives is SO much better, even than Peco streamline insulate versions of the same geometry.
This is the single most important piece of advice resulting in a happy modeller.
I'm a novice. I thought live frog points we're too advanced for me so I opted for dead frog points with smaller geometry to try to keep things simple and to cram more track in.
Worst mistake I made and is the bane of my running.
Thanks
End2end
End2end wrote: ↑Sun Sep 24, 2023 6:11 pm This is the single most important piece of advice resulting in a happy modeller.
I'm a novice. I thought live frog points we're too advanced for me so I opted for dead frog points with smaller geometry to try to keep things simple and to cram more track in.
Worst mistake I made and is the bane of my running.
Thanks
End2end
Seconded - all through my early years I used dead frog (Peco) points because what I read (i.e. Railway Modeller, pre internet - well pre computers mostly) made live vees appear complicated. With good old 20/20 hindsight....
There are less issues today with insulting points as the insulated part with the frog is very small compared with the past, and improvements in design with Peco and even Hornby have made massive improvements from the past.
If one has a choice and the point is the right shape and size, then I would always chose electro frog depending on the situation of what I am trying to do, but to be totally honest, the majority of issues where locos come to a halt while moving slowly across insulated frog points are due to poorly adjusted wheel pickups on the loco. Electro frog points hide these issues where ones loco may only be picking up on the one wheel on one side... Properly servicing my locos and they will run fine even on older large plastic insulated frog point designs. Those lovely Hornby 0-4-0's will run lovely on indulgent points if and give nice slow running it one spends time adjusting their wheel pickups. Most poor running is due to a lack of perservering rather than the loco design itself. (Modern versions have gone through quite some subtle improvements, the light touch pickups making a noticeable difference to slow running, though as mentioned before, properly adjusted pickups on the older ones and they run well with their slightly larger wheels and slightly lengthened wheelbase being built into the past Triang design which Hornby also copied were specifically designed to cross large plastic insulated frog points. Is smaller more "True to scale" 4 and so.e 6 wheel locos that may have issues. Of course, Electro frog points eliminate these issues so I do also recommend them as a first choice, but I would not refuse an insulated frog point (Especially a modern one) as most issues are with loco pickup adjustment rather than anything else. The main issue in recent years is DCC where decoders are more susceptible to slight interruptions in current which DC users may not notice. As more and more modellers are adopting DCC, the preference for Electro frog points is more popular than ever before! If one opts for electrofrog, (Recommended If one has a choice and the point one requires is in the right size and angles that are required) do not worry about how to wire the frog, as it is actually fairly simple. Just if using DC is better to look I to unsightly juicers. With DC users a simple two way switch is all one needs... And it one is clever one can find one of those microswitches and position it so the switch changes when the point throws to simplify the operation).
I've had a play around with some track planning software and come up with a couple of options for using the space, allowing for putting down a couple more boards in the attic to expand the usable area. I've based both on the Aberfeldy plan, with a station, goods yard, engine shed, and distillery sidings, I attached above.
Firstly an L-shape (1 square is 1 foot):
And a circular layout (1 square=1') - operated from a central 5'x3' cutout
The run-around loop at the station in the first plan is far too short.
You'll barely fit anything in between those 2 points. It will also limit the size of the loco that can use that run-around loop.
The top part of the second pan is a little confusing.
There is a point coming off the main line with a point right after it taking the loco back onto the main line.
Try switching the head shunt to the right side of those points.
And try "playing trains" in your head with the plan.
@Mountain. As mentioned, I have dead frogs.... I'm ALWAYS insulting them.
Thanks
End2end
Haha! It is this silly autocorrecting keyboard! I had to do a factory reset on this tablet and every few words I have to re-type. As I don't bother with my glasses I can miss things.
Haha!
This is the single most important piece of advice resulting in a happy modeller. 
