An 8'x4' Layout

[MiniNorthWestern]

Hello, I'm pretty new to creating my own layout. Which I'm creating on a sheet of 8'x4' plywood.
I don't suppose any of you more experienced folk can see anything immediately wrong with my plan below?
The area marked by 1070x700mm I was looking to cut out so all areas can be reached.

[Mountain]

The bottom two tracks seem too close together. One single line here serving the platform will work better.
Also, I personally find it better to avoid using curved points as if one has a derailment, it is usuallyon a curved point as the longer frog area can cause problems. I don't say don't use them. I say is best not to if you have a choice.

[End2end]

My immediate thought...
What traffic do you expect at platform 2?
I've just had a quick measure up and in 400mm you can only fit 4 small wagons or a single coach.

Depending on how you plan to uncouple, in my own experiments uncoupling on a curve can be troublesome.
One of our more experienced members may have a solution for that though.
I'm a mere amateur.
Thanks
End2end

[End2end]

One single line here serving the platform will work better.

If set track spacing were to be observed, bringing the inner line inwards, I think the twin line could work, but the platform would need to be narrower.
Thanks
End2end

[End2end]

A quick couple of questions if I may...
What gauge / scale are you going to run?
Will the 1070 x 700mm cut out be where you will control the layout from or will it be a lift out scenery section, usually covered?
Thanks
End2end

[MiniNorthWestern]

Thank you all for your comments! Most appreciated.
I suppose I should have prefaced my post stating it's in OO gauge.

For the bottom two tracks, is there a rule of thumb to achieve suitable spacing in AnyRail?
They're far enough apart for the "Roadbed" to just barely not touch.
Noted about the curved points, I'll have a think about that.

Platform 2 I was hoping would hold a Hornby Pacer, I haven't got one of these yet, but their length is shown as around 40cm online.

As for the cutout, I'm not sure whether it will be permanent or not, for the moment it's just so I can reach the back corner of the board
The layout will be "mainly" for my lads to play with, and I think they would love standing in the middle of it all.

[MiniNorthWestern]

I suppose a picture is worth a thousand words sometimes.
This is the baseboard as it stands:

[End2end]

For the bottom two tracks, is there a rule of thumb to achieve suitable spacing in AnyRail?

Platform 2 I was hoping would hold a Hornby Pacer, I haven't got one of these yet, but their length is shown as around 40cm online.

Not sure about Anyrail but it should lie out properly if set track is used in the program.
You can always see if it lines up using Scarm too.
https://www.scarm.info/index.php

As for the Pacer, the bend before the platform will make the Pacer's ends swing out over (beyond) the track dimensions so the platform shape will need to allow for this.
The same may apply for platform 3 too.
Simple solution. Move the end of the platforms back so the pacer is as straight as possible when approaching the platform.

Now you've added a picture, my next concern is the track your using. It looks quite old and made from steel.
Todays track is made with nickel silver and it's purportedly better. I'm not saying it won't work but other more experienced members can bestow the where's and why-fors as they can do it both more coherently and eloquently than I.

Getting back to the cutout. I ask the size as I had a quick measure up and the gap between my front and rear boards is 490mm.
So an option could be to make the cutout smaller and move those 3 inner sidings more (but not necessarily exactly) parallel to the track of platform 1.
This will solve (I think) 2 foreseeable problems. Trying to uncouple on a curve AND the use of 1st radius curves.
Thanks
End2end

[MiniNorthWestern]

Thanks, End2End, your post has been really helpful.

I've had a play with using set track pieces and can get Platform 4 and my "mainline" to line up the same as using flexi track.

The vast majority of the track I'm using is of the newer nickel-silver variety, only a few of the points are older steel.
The steel points I got second-hand will be receiving a good cleaning up with new fishplates when installed.

Coupling and uncoupling aren't something I'll be doing a lot of if at all, as I have a thing for DMUs/EMUs.

Is the use of 1st Radius curves a thing for concern? Only my entire inner loop is made of them

[End2end]

Is the use of 1st Radius curves a thing for concern? Only my entire inner loop is made of them

If you check the manufacturers site for any loco's you want to run, the details should tell you the recommended minimum radius for each.

Some people will jump through hoops with their own personal stories of what they've manage to get to go round 1st radius curves. Cutting bits off or shaving bits down on a loco.
I'm just not that brutal with my rolling stock.... nor do I model narrow gauge where tight curves are somewhat of a norm.

Personally I don't want to be dictated to on what I can and can't run by tight radius track even tough, as an amateur I am still using Peco set track albeit with 2nd and 3rd radius curves.
Thanks
End2end

[End2end]

The steel points I got second-hand will be receiving a good cleaning up with new fishplates when installed.

I fear it's worse than that.
I can't remember rightly but older steel track has different properties from newer nickel silver and so there is an advantage.

I used all new track for my layout as it's basically the base for everything.
I could have a million loco's but not one would be any good if my track was dodgy.

If I was to start over I'd use the new Peco unifrog (?) LIVE points.
The stalling on set track "dead frog" points will drive you mad. It does me.
At the time of me laying my track the only live frog points available were in the Streamline range so not to set track dimensions and thus too long for my layout. Whereas I think the newly introduced points would have worked better.
Thanks
End2end

[Dad-1]

Hi MiniNorthWestern,

I tend not to reply in the layout threads - every individual has their own 'wants'.
Knowing what traffic you fancy can dictate your planning moves.

What I will say, backing up End2End, try to keep away from old lifted pointwork
and in particular insulated frog variants. Going live frog is not too difficult and
the benefits of improved running cannot be overstated.

I was told this when I started, but as my first layout was going to be Diesels I
used Peco insulated frog trackwork. With longer diesels they bridge the dead
area, but I can't successfully run things all day, like 03,04,06,08 diesel shunters
and achieve zero stalls.

If your points are Hornby I can't comment as I never used them, but they only make
insulated frog variants. Pre used Peco set-track points I've tried using have distorted
in vicinity of the frog and I've had to file flat to obtain acceptable running. This was
not the result of damage when being lifted.

Geoff T.

[kebang]

With your layout you are obviously using a mix of 1st rad & 2nd rad curves. Not all locos will run on 1st rad so check posts in Track design section for good info on what may work. I've been doodling with anyrail and come up with what may work for you. You will see lots of expensive small pieces of track! I usually take some old straights (and curves for that matter) and cut the to size. (Originally with a junior hacksaw, but I've got a dremel now)
My suggestion eliminates the curved points, which, as Mountain says, are often the site of derailments.
I've reused lots of nickel silver track, but the points are usually a problem.

The track numbers are peco set track

As I've drawn them tracks serving platforms 2 & 3 are too close together but your DMU's should be okay. Any attempt I made to give them more space enlarged the plan above 120cm width. I've drawn the sidings on the opposite side of the oval to double their size.

[kebang]

Redrawn plan slightly to get rid of all the small straights, replacing them with 2 straight pieces of 10.2 length, and one piece 12cm in length, all shown in red. (I usually butcher these from old straights if flex track is not available).
I've also returned your sidings to the opposite side of the oval, this has the advantage of keeping all your points in the lower half of the board.

The yellow and blue coloured tracks are shown if you are intending to operate 2
locos at once. If that is your intention there are people here far more able than I able to advise on wiring/control. A member of this site has his own invaluable site, https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk. He makes electronics as simple as possible!

[kebang]

You could of course shorten the head shunt to the sidings if you wanted to, but a reasonable head shunt can assist operations without fouling the mainline

The length of a Pacer coach is 49' 7.5" in real life so presuming the Hornby model is accurate a 2 car unit model should be 15.8" so you could reduce the lengths of platforms 3 and 4 from how I have drawn them (changing the ST 200 track pieces for ST 202's would give 19.3" platform length)