Peco SL-112

[johnco]

I have searched high and low on the internet for this item with no success.
it seems to be either sold out or unavailable.
Are they still made ?
Does anyone know where one could buy one.
The alternative is to buy the short transition piece of track but space and cost of the number I would need makes this prohibitive.
Any suggestions for an alternative?
Thanks.

[Mountain]

The easiest alternative is to pack under the code 75 using card of something similar so that it gains the same railheight as the cose 100 and solder the two rails together.
It is also possible to use an old piece of code 100 track and gradually file it down at one end to code 75 height, and apart from needing a gradual slope, one will also then need to go over the rail surface with a heavy application with a Peco or a Hornby track cleaning rubber to get rid of the filing marks, and then go lighter and lighter pressure on the rubber to bring the railheads to a mirror-like shine. One may need to also adapt the bottom of the rail by careful filing to allow the smaller code 75 railjoiners to fit the code 75 side of the rail.

But to be totally honest, the packing and soldering method is the easiest, as one then simply files the excess solder and then finishes off with the rubber.

Out of the two rail cleaning rubbers, I prefer the Peco for heavier work and the Hornby for finer polishing work but both are excellent rubbers.(Overall I slightly prefer the Hornby rubber as it leaves far less bits when it wears out, as Peco's rubber does leave bits when it is on its final last legs, but there isn't much between them as both are quite honestly excellent!)

[aleopardstail]

The easiest alternative is to pack under the code 75 using card of something similar so that it gains the same railheight as the cose 100 and solder the two rails together.
It is also possible to use an old piece of code 100 track and gradually file it down at one end to code 75 height, and apart from needing a gradual slope, one will also then need to go over the rail surface with a heavy application with a Peco or a Hornby track cleaning rubber to get rid of the filing marks, and then go lighter and lighter pressure on the rubber to bring the railheads to a mirror-like shine. One may need to also adapt the bottom of the rail by careful filing to allow the smaller code 75 railjoiners to fit the code 75 side of the rail.

But to be totally honest, the packing and soldering method is the easiest, as one then simply files the excess solder and then finishes off with the rubber.

Out of the two rail cleaning rubbers, I prefer the Peco for heavier work and the Hornby for finer polishing work but both are excellent rubbers.(Overall I slightly prefer the Hornby rubber as it leaves far less bits when it wears out, as Peco's rubber does leave bits when it is on its final last legs, but there isn't much between them as both are quite honestly excellent!)

packing, soldering and get a bit of brass rod to run along the outside of the join, solder it to both rails and you have a very robust rail join - also incidentally perfect to add dropper wires to

[Dad-1]

I think I may have one kicking around in the shed that i don't want.
I'll check tomorrow.
If so you can have it for postage cost, perhaps free

Geoff T.

[FatController]

What about eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/197565142290 - or maybe you don't like that route?

[Bigmet]

Make your own code 100 to 75 rail joiners by crushing half the length of a code 100 joiner and soldering half a code 75 joiner on top. This has the advantage of working like regular rail joiners and allowing gapping to take up movement due to thermal expansion, and this helps in avoiding the code 100 rail 'pushing the code 75 about'. (Usual packing under the code 75 to match rail top.)

[johnco]

Thanks for all of your suggestions and kind offers.
My problem was that I am building a new layout from other dismantled layouts and had fixed most of the it with code 100 track and electrofrog points, I had completed the layout apart from the last siding when I discovered the the last set of points that I had was code75, so I would have to have three sets of code100/75 joiners.
I have now saved the day by swapping the code 75 points with a code 100 alternative with a friend in my local MRC.
The advantage of being in a modelling club, Problem solved.
Thanks

[Dad-1]

Ahh,

Do I assume you no longer need these parts ?
I note the part is actually SL113, I have an unopened packet here that has 4 parts.
I shall never use it so if you want I can send on to you.

Geoff T.

[johnco]

Yes, SL-112 is no longer required,
Thanks for your kind offer.

[Flashbang]

While no longer required and just for clarity, SL-112 are stepped rail joiners (Fishplates) Code 100 to Code 75, while SL-113 are a set of short lengths of track that step between Code 100 to Code 75.