New class 47 in OO

[centenary]

Presentation via Hornby Magazine. Those coaches look very close coupled but seem to get round the layout with no issues.

https://youtu.be/2UDAfNeNkeA?si=CsKmrO6R9O3Xuqsj

[Bigmet]

...Those coaches look very close coupled but seem to get round the layout with no issues...

Those are earlier production Bachmann mk1s, (immediately recognisable by the gross roof ribs) and coupled using a 'rigid bar' type coupler (Hornby's R8220 works a treat on these particular vehicles) they'll go round any curve radius the individual coaches will go around, including R1.

All my Bachmann and Hornby coaches supplied with close coupling mechanisms are coupled this way (mostly using the Roco and Hornby rigid bar couplers, now trialling magnetic types) and the effect is very good.

It's a weird thing, both Bach and Hornby introduced these close coupling mechanisms over 20 years ago, and never once produced any advice on how to get the best from them:
1. Remove the tension lock coupler, it is totally unsuited to these mechanisms.
2. Ensure the mechanism works smoothly side to side, a little powdered graphite is a good lubricant.
3. Use a coupler which connects the NEM pockets by a rigid bar when coupled up.
4. Enjoy.

[centenary]

TMC doing a flash sale of Heljan Class 47, Network SouthEast, sound fitted, 40% off RRP for £209.97. Sale on until midnight, 13 September (or until sold out?).

https://www.themodelcentre.com/gm424022 ... HVR,OLUS,1

[Metadyneman]

I've now acquired 4 of these locos, (mainly due to heavy discounting and mechanical reliability) and I'm actually quite impressed with their performance. Whilst the rivet counters may moan at the dimensional inaccuracies (of which there are quite a few), when running round my garden, none of these are immediately apparent. Two out of the four I have I paid £130 for and the other no more than £145 and that is fine by me. They run exceptionally well, have plenty of lighting features and are sound ready if I want to plug a loksound decoder in at a later date without faffing about with speakers. I realise that the original asking price was/is a lot higher and would I pay it? no! So in a nutshell I'm happy with my new Heljan 47s because they were sold to me at a sensible price.

[Bigmet]

Heljan start with an established reputation for reliable tractive performance that will haul any realistic load that a modeller cares to hang on the hook, even when the line is outdoors. I used Bach's Peak mechanism to power a Joueff 40 body for a few months, until a much superior Lima 40 non-runner was sourced, and then the loco both looked right and performed well.
Heljan's original 47 released in 2001 demonstrated the tractive capability, and as one accustomed to earlier Athearn HO and the contemporary Bachmann centre motor mechanisms, I so wanted to buy one, having tackled a few for friends and found the mechanism much to my liking once 'run in' . But it simply didn't look 'right enough' to persuade me, and sadly the current new release model is if anything slightly less persuasive! (The Hornby Brush 2, likewise not purchased, easy to see the shape was wrong, for all the fine performance of the mechanism.)

But had I still been outdoors, then I would have purchased both those Brush models, as reliable grunt is all: and racing along unimpeded by today's drizzle either would look very well indeed. Very much horses for courses.

[SRman]

Yes, I like the Heljan 'big diesel' mechanisms as being reliable, powerful, smooth, and very quiet. I don't mind the 'tubby Duff', as from most angles it looks good, just not right over the top of it. The new one's face really doesn't convince me at all, so I'm not buying any of them.

Maintenance-wise, the old mechanism is a little bit of a Chinese Puzzle to put back together but it is actually fairly simple and robust. I think the only weak point I have found (ignoring the original brass wheels that tarnished) is the bogie top clip, which can disintegrate if over oiled. None of my own brand new purchases ever suffered from this, but a couple of second-hand ones that had been over-oiled revealed the problem.

[Bigmet]

Yes, I like the Heljan 'big diesel' mechanisms...

... me too, and the narrow body mechanisms I have sampled (TOPS 15 and 16)are in no way inferior, a pleasant surprise.

I would by now have hoped to pick up a couple more Baby Deltics s/h, but no, they just didn't turn up while Hattons efficient s/h recycling operation was functioning. Which suggests to me that most Heljan owners are fully content with the product.

And in common with Bachmann's twin bogie mechanisms, no maintenance required, not even lubrication thus far: based on my experience with two Bachmann Peak mechanisms purchased in 1991 which have required no (NON!, Nul, Nada, etc.) mechanism attention of any sort, and still run as well as ever. (Hornby's mechanisms in the Brush 2 haven't needed lubrication attention; but the fall apart nature of the brass pick up bars assembly, poor in bogie gear train alignment, and the mazak rot, undermined the intrinsic reliablity of the drive line design) - but all fixable and have run beautifully since.

[Metadyneman]

Yes, I like the Heljan 'big diesel' mechanisms...

... me too, and the narrow body mechanisms I have sampled (TOPS 15 and 16)are in no way inferior, a pleasant surprise.

I would by now have hoped to pick up a couple more Baby Deltics s/h, but no, they just didn't turn up while Hattons efficient s/h recycling operation was functioning. Which suggests to me that most Heljan owners are fully content with the product.

And in common with Bachmann's twin bogie mechanisms, no maintenance required, not even lubrication thus far: based on my experience with two Bachmann Peak mechanisms purchased in 1991 which have required no (NON!, Nul, Nada, etc.) mechanism attention of any sort, and still run as well as ever. (Hornby's mechanisms in the Brush 2 haven't needed lubrication attention; but the fall apart nature of the brass pick up bars assembly, poor in bogie gear train alignment, and the mazak rot, undermined the intrinsic reliability of the drive line design) - but all fixable and have run beautifully since.

I agree with regards to the later Heljan models needing little or no maintenance but I've had several of the older models (Hymeks 33s and 47s) fail due to one component which is perhaps the Achilles heel of the entire mechanisms. That being the small drive cup attached to the worm gear drive which after a while, splits and slips on the spindle resulting in loss of drive on one or even both bogies. I've repaired a couple using Araldite in the past but they too eventually fail. I now have a stock of drive cups ready to insert if there are any failures but thankfully they are few and far between.

[Bigmet]

The drive coupler failure - I feel it is correct to assume - potentially lurks in all centre motor drive designs utilising a cardan shaft coupling from motor to gear tower(s). First and only time I have seen it on a model I own was a Lima class 20 'non-runner' got very cheap from Hattons circa 1990, and since then friends have provided occasional examples of the same failure mechanism on Bachmann, Heljan and Hornby items. (I only know one person with a Dapol example and none at all with Vi, SLW, Acc, Cav etc. so my 'sampling from friends' is biased.) From HO neither of my two Athearn PA1 mechanisms or my ancient Rivarossi shaft drive steam models have had this failure occur.

I have thought of routinely supergluing some thin wall aluminium tube around the couplers, and will initiate this if I ever see a failure among my own models.

[Metadyneman]

The drive coupler failure - I feel it is correct to assume - potentially lurks in all centre motor drive designs utilising a cardan shaft coupling from motor to gear tower(s). First and only time I have seen it on a model I own was a Lima class 20 'non-runner' got very cheap from Hattons circa 1990, and since then friends have provided occasional examples of the same failure mechanism on Bachmann, Heljan and Hornby items. (I only know one person with a Dapol example and none at all with Vi, SLW, Acc, Cav etc. so my 'sampling from friends' is biased.) From HO neither of my two Athearn PA1 mechanisms or my ancient Rivarossi shaft drive steam models have had this failure occur.

I have thought of routinely supergluing some thin wall aluminium tube around the couplers, and will initiate this if I ever see a failure among my own models.

The Dapol class 121/122 mechanism is also prone to drive shaft failure, not on the drive cup but the bit of plastic which fits into it. The drive shafts are made of metal onto which the plastic bit which fits into the drive cup is pressure fitted. Unfortunately this is prone to splitting and once it has, it is very difficult to repair due to its small size. Not an impossible job, but an extremely frustrating and fiddly one!

[Bigmet]

...The Dapol class 121/122 mechanism is also prone to drive shaft failure, not on the drive cup but the bit of plastic which fits into it. The drive shafts are made of metal onto which the plastic bit which fits into the drive cup is pressure fitted. Unfortunately this is prone to splitting and once it has, it is very difficult to repair due to its small size. Not an impossible job, but an extremely frustrating and fiddly one!

That's most informative, for which my thanks; I am not infrequently presented with examples of 'It stopped running, can you take a look?' so am always on the look out for such information .

A very different construction from the typical current cardan shafts with the engaging parts at each end, produced as a one piece moulding. Perhaps I should take a closer look at my sole Dapol powered model, the entirely trouble free and sweet running NBL DE type2 / TOPS 21?

[Metadyneman]

...The Dapol class 121/122 mechanism is also prone to drive shaft failure, not on the drive cup but the bit of plastic which fits into it. The drive shafts are made of metal onto which the plastic bit which fits into the drive cup is pressure fitted. Unfortunately this is prone to splitting and once it has, it is very difficult to repair due to its small size. Not an impossible job, but an extremely frustrating and fiddly one!

That's most informative, for which my thanks; I am not infrequently presented with examples of 'It stopped running, can you take a look?' so am always on the look out for such information .

A very different construction from the typical current cardan shafts with the engaging parts at each end, produced as a one piece moulding. Perhaps I should take a closer look at my sole Dapol powered model, the entirely trouble free and sweet running NBL DE type2 / TOPS 21?

The Dapol diesel and Electro diesel locos don't seem to suffer the same problem as the 121/122. I have several 52s and 73s all of which have run well (excepting the dreadful pick up arrangement on the 73 which I have circumvented by using a large stay alive capacitor)