Manually Operated Couplings For 00 Gauge.

[Mountain]

I am considering the possibility of finding a way of designing a means to couple my home-made couplings to other types of narrow gauge couplings.

[Mountain]

For those looking for a slightly less visually noticable 00 gauge coupling that is easy to make I saw this wagon for sale secondhand at Elaines Trains, which is basically one of the finescale solutions that early 4mm scale modellers adapted in the earlier years which later developed into what we eventually called "Tension lock". (Hope the photo still works as when wagon is sold it will likely dissapear).

Here is a link to the wagon:

https://www.elaines-trains.co.uk/images/330/33004a.JPG

https://www.elaines-trains.co.uk/images/330/33004c.JPG

I saw it and thought it could be the ideal answer for 00 modellers!

The buffer height bar part of the coupling also prevents bufferlocking, but still allows closer that normal coupling between vehicles, yet it follows the familiar "Tension lock" style hook and uncoupling bar, all made out of wire. Is genius! (Is similar to S&W though S&W work the other way up so their hooks pull down, which allow the additional benefit that one can push a vehicle while it remains uncoupled and oeave them in sidings, as well as S&W are magnetically (Below the track) uncoupled, while these on this wagon are via a ramp instead.
It is the simplicity I love. So simple to make! Is ideal!

[Bigmet]

There are many variations of such bent wire coupling systems, and if adopted, the all-important step is to make at least two identical 'jigs' for forming all the necessary wire parts so that they are uniform, and when the jig in use deteriorates, you can move on to the second 'reserve' jig and then have plenty of time to make a 'reserve' replacement.

Having done much of this when young, I am now old and lazy: for my steam era loose coupled wagon fleet solely use the Bachmann miniature tension lock as the starting point. The coupler is positioned by modification of the NEM pocket such that the bumper bar face is in the plane of the buffer faces, with the Brian Kirby mod for track magnet uncoupling. That allows the wagons to buffer up when propelled and to open out to scale for 6" between buffer heads, which is the desired effect, works on a minimum radius of 24". There is a risk with basing a system on a spcific brand's product in this way: the design can be altered or abandoned with no notice, best to be aware of that.

[Mountain]

There are many variations of such bent wire coupling systems, and if adopted, the all-important step is to make at least two identical 'jigs' for forming all the necessary wire parts so that they are uniform, and when the jig in use deteriorates, you can move on to the second 'reserve' jig and then have plenty of time to make a 'reserve' replacement.

Having done much of this when young, I am now old and lazy: for my steam era loose coupled wagon fleet solely use the Bachmann miniature tension lock as the starting point. The coupler is positioned by modification of the NEM pocket such that the bumper bar face is in the plane of the buffer faces, with the Brian Kirby mod for track magnet uncoupling. That allows the wagons to buffer up when propelled and to open out to scale for 6" between buffer heads, which is the desired effect, works on a minimum radius of 24". There is a risk with basing a system on a spcific brand's product in this way: the design can be altered or abandoned with no notice, best to be aware of that.

I think the key to using a different coupling you have just mentioned if they are commercially made products, that they are available, or can be made if not.
The key to a home made coupling is that it is easy to make and fit, and reliably does what it needs to do. I know with my narrow gauge couplings, it took me a year and a half to two years of both experiments and researching other home made and commercial designs before ai came out with my own. I was going to copy the common H0 style "European" coupling, but I reasoned that the bar loop does not need to be in the horizontal position if one is content with manual operation, and here is another point. Does one necessarily need automatic operation? If not, one can open up more nice and simple design possibilities. While I consider the 3 link to be too fiddly for anything smaller than 7mm scale, as 7mm scale it can be tedious, but if one makes those 3 links solid so they act as a solid bar, coupling and uncoupling becomes so MUCH easier if one makes a simple too (Such as stiff wire) to help lift the bar.