Baseboard foam/Polystyrene (also a question about legs)

Discussion of model railway baseboard design and construction
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rreckless
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Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2024 4:05 pm

Baseboard foam/Polystyrene (also a question about legs)

Post by rreckless »

Hi again
I'm finally approaching the start of building my layout, I'm just finalising a few baseboard details before I get to buying everything. My layout is 10' x 3'2" (3m x 1M) and I want to top the board with 2-3 inches of foam or polystyrene so I can cut parts away for scenery etc. This brings me to 2 questions, the first, how, if I have 3" thick foam, do I solve an issue like point motor rods? I assume I just have to find a way of extending them? The 2nd question is, foam or polystyrene better?

And on the legs, I plan on having the board constructed of 3 sections, equally divided on the 10' length and then having legs on each corner of the 3 sections so they can stand independently if I want to work on a section individually. I feel like this will be plenty of support and the legs shouldn't splay, but wondered if anyone would contest that idea?

Thanks in advance.
aleopardstail
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Re: Baseboard foam/Polystyrene (also a question about legs)

Post by aleopardstail »

point motors:

I would be tempted to give the point its own mini base, around the operating area at least, thin MDF (3mm?) thin plywood or maybe plastic sheet. a base large enough to more than cover the desired point motor. then fit the motor with its wires. can also test it like that, stand alone little module.

then cut a suitable hole in the foam of choice and install it that way, hole through the base below for the wires. totally voids issues around extending motor actuators etc ad the associated reliability.

as for the type of foam. expanded polystyrene is ok if thats all you can get, its cheap but its also fragile a thin wood base under will do fine though - be aware this stuff damages the insulation on wires - easy solution is a plastic drinking straw, if Greta allows it, wires inside that protects them.

the other insulation foams are better, the blue/pink especially, the yellow works. wear gloves when handling and cutting it, but it comes down to what you can get for a sensible price

as for legs, well Leopard street is 12' long, in three four foot sections - the initial idea was one end had four legs and the other two cantilevered from it. I ended up with the end ones only having legs and the middle one sits between them on a small lip while the bolts go in. legs on all three sections is even better. to stop them splaying there are a few methods, the one I went with involved bolting a bit of ply, about 18" high and the full width between them, four bolts, job done and solid. triangle bracing the other way is a good idea (here its up against a wall so doesn't really need it)

the foam board topping is not a bad idea, can have a thin wood sheet under for bracing but something simple works nicely
rreckless
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Re: Baseboard foam/Polystyrene (also a question about legs)

Post by rreckless »

Thanks for the reply, I'm leaning towards a 9mm ply board, with 75mm foam board on top. Will see what I can easily get hold of
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Mountain
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Re: Baseboard foam/Polystyrene (also a question about legs)

Post by Mountain »

I wrote a reply but it has gone. Strange.
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Mountain
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Re: Baseboard foam/Polystyrene (also a question about legs)

Post by Mountain »

I mentioned building to an open frame design as it might be what you are looking for. Only thing to beware of is polystyrene can be flammable. Depends what type is used. Is certainly a good material for forming hills though.
Dad-1
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Re: Baseboard foam/Polystyrene (also a question about legs)

Post by Dad-1 »

I tend not to get involved in peoples baseboard designs, there are so many options
and personal likes, dislikes, skills, requirements.
I chose to build one of my layouts tracks on stilts up from the sheet base foundation. After some 14 years
of use it's all still fine. See viewtopic.php?p=334020#p334020

One problem with this is you MUST know exactly what your track formation is going to be, no changing your
mind half way through. Additional space can be allowed for any points required with standard motors being
all that's needed. This way you have your low-land and then build up with styrene for your flowing landscape.

Another dodge to get flowing landscape with a multi board construction is to hang one board (or more) at a much
lower level as you're thinking of 3 boards this is an approach I'd be planning on. What may look extreme on a plan,
even during building will look perfectly normal when all the scenery is built in.
viewtopic.php?t=35063&start=60
viewtopic.php?p=611961#p611961

I think those links take you to the relevant pages. Hope it offers some ideas.

Geoff T.
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