My very first layout (N Gauge)

[potatan]

After lots of thought, research and input from the forum I’ve arrived at what I think is a nice enough N gauge layout for starting with, and have a few questions before I commit to purchasing track and getting started.

My layout will fit on a table (on a baseboard) so I’ve created a plan for a 3’6 x 2’6 / 106x76cm double loop with a few sidings. It’s loosely based on a Peco sample (1a and 1b combined) but I’ve used radius R2 and R3 instead of R1 and R2 to avoid any carriage overhang issues that I’ve read a lot about for R1. My table is extendable by a foot each end so there may be scope to add to this later should I wish.

Here are a few random questions that occurred to me, numbered for easy reference

1. General advice on my layout – have I made any major errors?
2. Should I start out with electric points or can these be fitted after? I’d guess it’s easier to fit them from the beginning
3. Are the points and motors in my layout likely to be too close together?
4. Foam or cork track underlay – or maybe Tracklay
5. How can I move the inner station and sidings to be a bit more central? There is a big empty space on the layout so I was thinking I could use a curved turnout off the RH bend to bring the busy bit more into the middle but I’m really struggling to figure out the curved turnout geometry.
6. How many power connections am I likely to need and where? I'm almost certain to go with DCC even though I probably don't need it for this specific layout
7. Frogs. Tell me about the frogs I need.

I realise some questions could probably be answered by me with a bit more research or trial and error but I'd appreciate the input nonetheless as I'm planning to visit my local modelling shop this weekend.

I’ve used 49 pieces of Setrack (conveniently under the AnyRail demo limit of 50 )

Track items:
ST-1, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Straight 8.7cm. 5
ST-11, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Straight 17.4cm. 10
ST-14, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Curve radius 26.35cm, angle 22.5º 2
ST-15, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Curve radius 26.35cm, angle 45º 8
ST-17, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Curve radius 29.85cm, angle 45º 8
ST-3, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Curve radius 22.8cm, angle 22.5º 2
ST-5, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Right turnout 8.7cm. 22.5º 4
ST-6, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Left turnout 8.7cm. 22.5º 5
ST-8, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Buffer/Bumper 5

[Mountain]

Though having a station on straight track can be easier, having it on a curve is not only space saving, but one can create a nice scenic break as the teack goes under a road bridge associated with the station. One can also create an illusion that the platforms are longer than they are by only modelling one end of the station and its platform with the imaginary end going the other side of the bridge.

Other tips designed to give the illusion of a larger railway than it is, are to allow a track (Siding?) to come to the edge of the layout as if there is a line going further, and to also avoid running the straight track parallel to the board edge. Slant the oval of track at an angle on the board slightly.
These simple hints divert the mind from thinking "Train set".

Consider the "Headshunt" idea which follows prototype practice when it comes to freight sidings, which prevent trains coming directly out onto the main line if someone forgets to apply the handbrakes on waggons. These track formations were common in the past and were a saftey rule requirement to prevent accidents.

Electrically speaking, headshunts will need extra wiring, but it does create a realistic trackplan look.

Point motors. (Most are technically solenoids). These are normally mounted underneath the points either via a slot in the board or a larger hole which is carefully covered up afterwards. There are also surface mounted point solenoids and motors available with the rare occasion where they may even be built into the point, though less common these days.

Not to want to confuse things too much, but there are also other simple mechanical means to change points, though it depends on ones approach and how far the point is from the operator, as, like on the real railways, electrical means was first used in situations where the pointsnor signals were too far away from signalboxes for mechanical means to be practically used. Some modellers will also do the same. Others just use electrical means for all their points. (Some control panel designs and if one wants to control points via DCC systems, electrical means is the choice one will need. Many exhibition layouts prefer simpler mechanical means via something like a bicycle spoke or wire etc due to needing the ultimate rreliability for layouts that may take a bashing in use, and also to reduce costs. It really is a personal choice on a small layout. On large layouts it becomes more of a practical choice for those distant hard to reach places!

Points... Live frogs or deadfrogs (Electrofrog or insulfrog)... Dead frogs are easier to wire in that normally they need no additional wiring other than the current flowing through them from the single track end, BUT there is the possibility of locomotives stalling as they go over the dead frog area (Which these days is a very small area. Older points had much larger dead areas to cross, and locos used to have only a few wheels that could collect the current so it used to bea bigger problem than it is today if running on DC....However, as DCC is far more "Current critical" as with DCC a brief interuption in the current can cause the decoder to assume the loco is starting again and it does a dead stop and starts its inertia again which (Take it from me) is highly annoying!
The DCC solution is to use live frog points (Electrofrog) which do require a separate means to wire up the frog via a means of frog switching. Though I can't comment on these as I have never tried one, as they were not available until after I had abandoned DCC, devices called "Frog juicers" provide a quick means to power the frogs in the electrical direction required. The old means I do know which is a separate electrical switch, which can be (For convenience) a switch connected to the point or the point motor or solenoid, so one does not need to manually remember to manually throw an extra switch....

I hope all this makes sense? It is not too complicated when one gets the general idea, but sounds more complicated to try and explain.

[Mountain]

Is easier though to learn things a step at a time which is why if one is into 00 gauge, I personally think it is an idea to go for DC first, learn that and then go into DCC because understanding DC principles actually gives one a greater understanding as to what is going on when fault finding on DCC.
BUT in N gauge, as DCC decoders are much harder to fit due to the size, if one wants DCC, is MUCH easier to buy locos with decoders ready fitted! (Not saying one can't fit decoders to N gauge locos, but the smaller one goes in size, the more difficult things become! So to save frustration, if one wants to go DCC in N gauge, go all out DCC which is the opposite to what I would normally say to modellers in the larger scales!

But whichever way one goes, ENJOY! It is a FUN HOBBY! A hobby we can learn new things and explore and have fun in!

The route I have personally taken is to try to make everything myself in a budget friendly way, which is why I have gone to a larger scale (0 scale) using 00 track gauge width, so while I am generally adopting an "Old school" simpler approach, I am also often diving into things that I have personally never tried. This hobby of ours is massive in all the directions one can explore!

[potatan]

So to save frustration, if one wants to go DCC in N gauge, go all out DCC which is the opposite to what I would normally say to modellers in the larger scales

Interesting - and confirms where I was heading. I originally thought I could start DC then add complications with DCC later but although I am reasonably adept at intricate work it sounds like I might save myself a whole lot of trouble and duplication of effort by going all in from the start with DCC, particularly with N Gauge

[potatan]

By the way, I just costed all this track on a popular model railway supplier site at a few pence under £245 (plus postage)

Track items:
ST-1, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Straight 8.7cm. 5
ST-11, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Straight 17.4cm. 10
ST-14, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Curve radius 26.35cm, angle 22.5º 2
ST-15, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Curve radius 26.35cm, angle 45º 8
ST-17, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Curve radius 29.85cm, angle 45º 8
ST-3, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Curve radius 22.8cm, angle 22.5º 2
ST-5, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Right turnout 8.7cm. 22.5º 4
ST-6, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Left turnout 8.7cm. 22.5º 5
ST-8, N Peco Setrack Code 80, Buffer/Bumper 5

I guess then I'll need fishplates and power supplies and lots else before I can get a minimum viable loop without scenery/buildings/etc

[aleopardstail]

note set track is all "dead frog" in N, also set track comes with fishplates (you may want some plastic ones, but if going DCC unless you want play with automation, and I'd suggest not for a first layout, just wire it all "live" and be done with it so won't need insulating ones)

the track plan is quite basic, however going for 2'6" depth is I think vital, 2' works but everything ends up close to the edges. if you can consider slightly longer, 3'6" will work, 4' is a bit better, but it will work as you have it drawn



red bits possible platforms, if you change the inner siding to be straight its a nice bay, curved platforms are not that hard to make, but take your time. inner two sidings become a goods yard or "whatever". your big empty space can be a small village, town, or just fields, don't fall into the trap of "must fill it all".

your train size is largely dictated by the sidings length

potatan 2 loop.png (153.88 KiB) Viewed 1738 times

would suggest the above, start the rear siding on the curve to get more length to it, and if you feel you have space add a second siding, each able to hold a complete train. the inner one will always be short but is ideal for a DMU or auto coach or similar to and from the bay platform

the blue dots are power feeds, PECO do clips which I think fit curves, if not the make fishplates with pre-soldered wires that work well

its not a bad first layout, space to run a few trains, shuffle wagons, experiment with scenery etc without being too complicated

[potatan]

the track plan is quite basic, however going for 2'6" depth is I think vital, 2' works but everything ends up close to the edges. if you can consider slightly longer, 3'6" will work, 4' is a bit better, but it will work as you have it drawn

These measurements are of the actual table (3’6 x 2’6 / 106x76cm) that I will be using as a "base" for the initial layout testing. When I come to putting it on a proper base I can make the base deeper than the table so long as I brace it well enough to not move, so there is definitely scope for making the layout a bit bigger all round.

its not a bad first layout, space to run a few trains, shuffle wagons, experiment with scenery etc without being too complicated

Thanks - very encouraging, as that is my aim for this plan in order to see what I like doing (and maybe what I don't).

[aleopardstail]

the track plan is quite basic, however going for 2'6" depth is I think vital, 2' works but everything ends up close to the edges. if you can consider slightly longer, 3'6" will work, 4' is a bit better, but it will work as you have it drawn

These measurements are of the actual table (3’6 x 2’6 / 106x76cm) that I will be using as a "base" for the initial layout testing. When I come to putting it on a proper base I can make the base deeper than the table so long as I brace it well enough to not move, so there is definitely scope for making the layout a bit bigger all round.

its not a bad first layout, space to run a few trains, shuffle wagons, experiment with scenery etc without being too complicated

Thanks - very encouraging, as that is my aim for this plan in order to see what I like doing (and maybe what I don't).

this is the important bit, everything else is secondary - and that plan has running and shunting so its perfect