Frog wire length?

[centenary]

The frog wire on Peco OO scale bullhead Unifrogs seem shorter than that I have seen on their electrofrog range. In comparison the frog wire on single and double slips seems excessive. And yes, I know on slips, the point motor controls the furthest point from it hence why the frog wire is longer.

Still, what's your preference for frog wire length?

Do you go with that out of the packet or trim it back as short as possible? Is there any real benefit to cutting the frog wire short and instead having a longer piece of wire soldered to it and into the point motor?

I mean the frog wire is so thin, if it's going to break, it could break anywhere along its length whether it is cut shorter or not?

For info, I wrap the frog wire around about 5mm of my main frog wire that goes to the point motor, add a bit of flux and make a good solder join. Finish off with a bit of heat shrink over the actual soldered joint.

[Bigmet]

The only aspect I am concerned with is that the bond to the crossing is good. That's the vulnerable spot, because should that break with the point installed, and especially if ballasted and weathered, it's 'a little annoying' to repair. I leave all track feed wires with enough slack to enable track pieces to be lifted sufficiently in case a repair is ever required.

A lesson learned long ago: if it's ballasted in position and tied down by the wires, the job is more difficult. (Same applies if your home ever needs installed wiring added, or rewiring. Paying a little more for the electrician to neatly arrange slack is worthwhile if your plan is staying put long term.)

[aleopardstail]

you want the wire to be long enough you can solder a longer wire to it without damaging the turnout itself, I'd not be using the bare wire direct to a relay or switch without some heat shrink on it anyway

[centenary]

The only aspect I am concerned with is that the bond to the crossing is good. That's the vulnerable spot,

Totally agree and given the thickness or rather thiness of the frog wire, Im bemused why the likes of Peco use it. I think in a couple of Larry Pucket's vids he uses Walthers points and they have a metal tag from the frog to just beyond the end of a sleeper so you can solder wire to it.

On the Unifrog points Im using, the frog wire is channelled out under a sleeper so Im dropping the wire under the boards just beyond this and not down directly under the frog.

[Peterm]

The only aspect I am concerned with is that the bond to the crossing is good. That's the vulnerable spot,

Totally agree and given the thickness or rather thiness of the frog wire, Im bemused why the likes of Peco use it. I think in a couple of Larry Pucket's vids he uses Walthers points and they have a metal tag from the frog to just beyond the end of a sleeper so you can solder wire to it.

On the Unifrog points Im using, the frog wire is channelled out under a sleeper so Im dropping the wire under the boards just beyond this and not down directly under the frog.

I've done this on some of my code 75 peco points and slips. The end can then be connected with a choc block to a stranded wire to the switch (Tortoise).

Yes Bigmet. I've had to resolder a few frog wires to the frog. I've used stranded wire in place of that horrible solid stuff.