Handy Revell glue tip.

[End2end]

The metal tube on my Revell Contacta Professional Mini has blocked up and I just found this handy tip to clear it so thought I'd share this quick and most useful video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vyu2jNK9r0c

Anyone know how long this glue takes to fully dry? I can't remove the clamps until it is.
Thanks
End2end

[heda]

I've been using that method for a while, never thought to share it.
Had to laugh at the 'hot do not touch' warning, never would have worked that out for myself !
Can't help with the drying time I'd suggest unless your in a hurry leave it overnight that way it will certainly be set.
Dave

[centenary]

I have the yellow Humbrol(?) bottle that has a short piece of metal tube. I put a pin in the tube to stop the glue setting in the tube. However, when you're doing a job, I often leave the pin out and find the glue in it starts to set so the next time you want to use it, nothing comes out.

If you hold the bottle upside down over a piece of card or tray, the glue behind the blockage 'melts' it and starts to flow again. Obviously if the glue has set hard, then the pin is needed again!

[Phred]

Good tip. Thanks End2end.

I have to admit, I'm the one who heats something up and then immediately forgets that it's hot!

[Bigglesof266]

Anyone know how long this glue takes to fully dry?

It depends upon how heavy handed you are with application.

Contacta Pro is a less viscous form of the venerable familiar metal tubed poly cements of yore we all used, long long ago the only glue available for plastic models. Albeit more locally accurately and less aggressively, nevertheless Contacta works like it did by melting the plastic surfaces until they weld together. In application, a case of less is more, or rather just enough for the particular join is enough.

Surplus solvent will have to evaporative dry.

So assuming you've applied the glue judiciously, the parts will weld together 'pretty fast'. As you've clamped the parts, I\m assuming again it's a fairly large seam and the dry fit wasn't good? e.g. poorly fitting aircraft wing halves or similar. Where the dry fit parts fit is perfect, e.g. typical Tamiya kit, clamping isn't required. If you've used just enough Contacta cement, five to ten minutes and the part should be sufficiently welded so its safe to handle. An hour and the part can cope with mechanical stress. i.e. limb or head on a 1/35 figurine.

Cleaning a blocked Contacta applicator needle. First prevention. Make sure you wipe off excess off the tip at the end of the work session, and always replace the needle shroud when storing it away at the end of it.

If you find the Contacta needle blocked when you go to use it again. Usually, the glue won't have congealed within the needle tube, or if it has, it's ordinarily semi-solid only a small segment near the tip. My method is to use an extremely thin but stiff gauge wire that fits within the needle to clear the blockage mechanically. What I use is a section cut from an about to be discarded unwound electric guitar string as they work beautifully for purpose and I have them conveniently to hand. A pin won't fit the inner diameter of the Contacta needle.

[End2end]

Contacta works like it did by melting the plastic surfaces until they weld together.

I know that only too well. I tried using it to fill a void in a chimney and melted it so the sides are concave. Oops.

Yes I had to use it judiciously for wiring in my current project. I didn't want to melt the undercarriage.
https://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/F ... 05#p706392

I gave it at least 30 minutes drying time before unclamping and moving along the body at little each time.
It took a while.
Thanks
End2end

[Bigglesof266]

P.S. Glue type tips. Revell's Contacta Pro is a popular plastic modelling glue. I do have it in my inventory, have used it in the past and occasionally still do. It works well enough, but lacks the ability to finesse as well as some others, particularly in attaching very small parts, so it's not one of the types I choose to use most in assembly of plastic models.

I use and recommend having a least two viscosities of modern liquid type plastic cement which is applied with a (supplied within cap) brush. I can safely recommend Tamiya Regular and Tamiya Extra Thin. One can get away with using just Extra Thin with good parts fit and intelligent use, but its handy to have the more viscous Regular to hand too. Those recommendations are no brainer can't go wrong for the layman from beginner to experienced modeller. Tamiya also make a an Extra Thin Fast Drying which also has a use, but one can assemble pretty much any plastic model to a very high standard with only the former two mentioned.

Alternatively, another first rate Japanese hobby company GSI Creos make pretty much the same thing in several flavours under their Mr.Hobby brand. These too are excellent. I have all of them too and can recommend them although their odour is less pleasing than Tamiya's to my sense of smell. They are respectively in approximate equivalents; Mr. Cement (Deluxe is just the larger sized bottle), Mr.Cement S (similar to Tamiya's Extra Thin), Mr. Cement SP (similar to Tamiya's Extra Thin Fast Drying), Mr. Cement SPB ( same as SP, a dark dye added so you can see where the cement wicks by capillary action). Again, either Mr. Cement and/or Mr. Cement S as alternatives to their Tamiya equivalents are all that are necessary for many exceptional modellers.

I do have all of the above in my current glue inventory including Revell's Contacta Professional and Revell's Contacta in the tube, and so speak from recent experience in having used them all. Having the range to choose from merely allows for ease, convenience and a perfect result every time. Even taking into account owning almost every type of glue consumable, It's a relatively cheap hobby until you get to buying model paints and their associated necessary consumables in today's tiny 17ml plastic dropper bottles or 10ml glass mini jars, much more so than model rail.

CA for PE and or some plastic. I use Pacer ZAP Plastic (Orange) or Thin (pink), or Tamiya. Pacer Formula 550 Canopy glue for clear parts, or Micro Krystal Klear both of which dry clear. Alternatively as a one size fits all budget alternative, applied thinly with a moistened modelling paintbrush, Weldbond is a decent ersatz solution for both PE and on clear parts.

[Bufferstop]

I've used all the methods of clearing the tube in the past, but my favourite is dead simple, just pull the tube out and push it back in the other way around. The solvent in the bottle soon dissolves what is in the tube and clears it.

[Bigglesof266]

I've used all the methods of clearing the tube in the past, but my favourite is dead simple, just pull the tube out and push it back in the other way around. The solvent in the bottle soon dissolves what is in the tube and clears it.

That'd work well enough if using your bottle of Contacta regularly.

Two negatives in it for me. The first, I don't use Contacta regularly, so if it does congeal very hard and forms a solid blockage as it has in the distant past for me through negligence before I practiced the use, handling, storage policies outlined the previous post, that method is unlikely to result in anything but further frustration.

The second. The plastic neck the needle inserts into is subject to deterioration over time. Maybe I've just been unlucky, and yes it was a few years old, but I had one of those yellow caps split completely apart horizontally separating top and bottom effectively rendering it throw away. Even 3M electrical tape hold the two parts together to form a seal the fumes just consumed the adhesive and softened the tape, so effectively I had a throw the contents away. Hasn't reoccurred as it's not my preferred glue and I seldom buy it.

Caused by stress of the cap being overtightened to stop the solvent venting and/or exposure to poly fumes conjunctively I don't know, but removing the needle unnecessarily. Meh. Easier and quicker to just poke a piece of semi rigid wire into the tube. Same method as used of yore (1960s) with the old Humbrol metal tubes of poly glue long before they came supplied with a plastic cap. Pieced the metal end with a pin, and sealed it with the same 'tool'. If left a week forgetting to replace the pin returning to find nozzle congealed, the trusty pin put to use again as a piercing and removal tool. Of course, OMMV as always. Each to their own.

Although it'd work, not so sure about Hearn's drastic 'cure it by fire' methodology though. As primitive and unnecessary today as Napoleonic Wars surgery and subsequent cauterisation. I can see helicopter parenting mums of primary school aged youngsters today having kittens.

[End2end]

I've got some Humbrol Liquid Poly in a small square glass jar with a brush attached to the lid that someone gave me.
Is this much the same as the Tamiya liquid glue?
Is it safe on plastics too?
Thanks
End2end

[Bigglesof266]

I've got some Humbrol Liquid Poly in a small square glass jar with a brush attached to the lid that someone gave me.
Is this much the same as the Tamiya liquid glue?
Is it safe on plastics too?
Thanks
End2end

I've never used the Humbrol Liquid Poly or been tempted to, so I can't give you an experience based qualitative answer. Looking at its SDS, no.

Is it safe on plastics too?

I'm unsure what you're asking here.

Perhaps this might help? See the other illustrative link in the next paragraph where I mention how aggressive it appears to be.

I have used Revell Contacta Liquid supplied in a bottle, although it was a decade ago. The only memory of it I recall is that it wasn't in the same league as Tamiya Cement. The application brush then was coarse, the cement although liquid was more viscous than than Tamiya's (regular) liquid cement, and importantly, it was very aggressive. Characteristically it was pretty much the same as Humbrol describe their Liquid Poly, "The product is a low viscosity version of Humbrol Poly Cement to enable application by brush". I suspect the applicator notwithstanding, Humbrol's Liquid Poly is characteristically similar to Revell Liquid Cement if not chemically identical. Watch this which illustrates that for my purpose, Humbrol's Liquid Poly is far too aggressive in comparison with Tamiya or Mr.Hobby Cements.

If you want a liquid cement which is safe to accurately apply or apply to seams post dry fitting to cement them together which won't disfigure the detail and so is "safe on plastic" (?), use Tamiya Extra Thin or Mr. Hobby Cement S, and remember, more is less.

Back when I restarted more frequent plastic modelling I really wanted to like the Revell line of products, but the plain fact is there's a reason Tamiya is the best in the business and worth a premium where necessary. GSI Creos under their Mr.Hobby brand is the only brand line of products that can hold a candle to them IMV.

That doesn't mean to say others won't get the job done.

[End2end]

Thanks for that Biggles. Wow that is aggressive.
That's what I meant about being safe on plastics. Glue that doesn't melt or deform the plastic to make the bond.
I don't think I'll be using that Humbrol anytime soon.
Thanks
End2end

[Bigglesof266]

Thanks for that Biggles. Wow that is aggressive.
That's what I meant about being safe on plastics. Glue that doesn't melt or deform the plastic to make the bond.
I don't think I'll be using that Humbrol anytime soon.
Thanks
End2end

Back in 1963 when British trade dominated here in Australia and respectively Airfix and Humbrol although then separate companies owned the only kit, glue and paint games in town, Humbrol glue in the metal tube was it. Even then before super high detail it was frustrating and the sanding files got a good workout. Today there's just no reason for adults to choose or use their products.

In 2023, choice abounds as illustrated in previous posts. That said, for a myriad of reasons, Tamiya is the go to for a top job no brainer in pretty much everything hobby accessory. Buy this and a bottle of this and you'll be set for 99% of all model building plastic to plastic gluing tasks.

For your coaches project, I'd invest in some Pacer Plasti-ZAP CA. I suspect you'll find it very useful. Also available in a 7g brush on bottle which I use to attach brass PE to plastic. Like all Pacer ZAP adhesives, quality & best in class.

[End2end]

Thanks for those. I've added them to my list.

The glues I have at the moment are:-
Deluxe Material Plastic kit glue
Deluxe materials Glue N Glaze
Revell Contacta Pro
Humbrol liquid Poly (although I've not used it)
UHU
Some cheap super glue
and of course good old pritt stick.
Thanks
End2end