how to make a 'pickup' wagon

[b308]

Flexible wire isn't an issue. Aside from the previously mentioned sources, there are also those cheap headsets from Poundland. In addition places like Eileens Emporium sell flexible multi core wire that can be used. I have a pickup wagon in 6.5mm gauge (Z) and the wire I use for that which is from those micro plugs I linked to a year ago work just fine in that gauge so won't be a issue in the much bigger world of OO!

I agree with Dad1 re points, though, bowing of points is not restricted to Peco, many other makes do the same thing. Though I'd suggest it's down to the way the point is fixed to the baseboard that is the issue. As long as it's glued for it's full length it shouldn't bow.

[D605Eagle]

Hi D605 Eagle. Thank you for your photos, of the “extra pickup wagon”. Is that Brass or Phosphor Bronnze? And how is it for keeping contact with the wheels? Nearly fifty years ago I used an old lid off a jam jar that worked well, but things have moved on since. The choice of flexible wire is another concern, though TCS are a recommended supplier that I must contact
Happy modelling. Kev

They are made from very thin brass sheet, superglued to the underside of the wagon. The bare lightly on the inner face of the wheelset just above the axle insulator. The wires are not brilliant on this one, far too thick a gauge, but I didn't have any very fine wire at the time and I've never got round to replacing it. However it works very well.

[Bigmet]

Hi Bigmet. That looks an excellent idea, but it is a bit late for my current baseboard .
Would you please tell me, what is milliput used for? And can I purchase it in a builders merchant or a model shop without going “ online” and paying for P&P, without waiting for the postman? Happy modelling Kev

Milliput is a two part epoxy putty - 'stiff Araldite' if you will. Adheres well, doesn't shrink, cures quickly to make a tough filler which can be drilled, overpainted etc. as required. It's neatest trick is that before it cures the surface can be worked with water to obtain a perfectly profiled smooth finish. No more filing and sanding to profile the filler, done before it cures.

Model shops, Hardware outlets various, Garden centres, stock it. I first encountered it as a patching material for repairing terracotta pottery, frost damaged in the garden. The terracotta colour is ideal on track as it is rust colour, unlike that socking great lump of translucent plastic Peco propose, which never looks like anything seen on the real railway.

You can also make stuff with it, ideal if quickly needing one or two mouldings to repair damage for example. I have also made new soldering iron and knife handles with it, and plugged the hollow handle of a saucepan to make it work better on the gas hob (doesn't get so hot it will inflict burns) the last two go in the dishwasher very regularly and have survived many years. Great on many plastic car parts too: last year reassembled a wing mirror shroud on a friend's 'exotic' motor; worth a try at £5 when he was looking at over £400 for the spare...

[retiredoperator]

Hi Modellers I have discovered , but not yet tried. DCC Supplies offer PW 400-1 Conductive Couplings (NEM OO) Brelec. Check em out they may be just what you require?
Happy modelling Kev

[retiredoperator]

Hi D605Eagle Again, I notice that your wagon is different from your average wagon,
insofar as it doesn’t dave spoked wheels. Being a “Novice” at pick up wagon making, I suppose this obviously would mean replacing the spoked wheels, but would you please tell me what wheels do I need?? Happy modelling. Kev

[Lysander]

[quote="Bigmet"]Milliput is a two part epoxy putty - 'stiff Araldite' if you will. Adheres well, doesn't shrink, cures quickly to make a tough filler which can be drilled, overpainted etc. as required. It's neatest trick is that before it cures the surface can be worked with water to obtain a perfectly profiled smooth finish. No more filing and sanding to profile the filler, done before it cures. /quote]

Absolutely, I'd not be without it. A wet finger, or fine brush, can smooth out and profile the filler beautifully. Ideal for filling gaps between coach end/sides of roofs/bodies etc..

Tony

[Bufferstop]

Hi D605Eagle Again, I notice that your wagon is different from your average wagon,
insofar as it doesn’t dave spoked wheels. Being a “Novice” at pick up wagon making, I suppose this obviously would mean replacing the spoked wheels, but would you please tell me what wheels do I need?? Happy modelling. Kev

Hi Kev - There are various solutions to this, you can arrange for the wipers to bear on the back of the flange, or change the wheels for disc wheels. For Hornby and Bachmann wagons the wheelsets are interchangeable they are 12mm disc wagon wheels. Dapol wagons are a law unto themselves, some have the same length axles as Hornby and Bachmann others have shorter axles. When I encounter one of these I carefully bore out the axlebox with a 2mm drill bit held between finger and thumb. Then countersink it with a 2.5mm drill bit and press in a brass bearing cup. It helps mitigate the extra drag of the wipers.
Simplest is to start with a Hornby or Bachmann wagon. If it's one of the small steam locos then a wagon to double as a tender is the one to choose, if its a small diesel both Hornby and Bachmann offer a dedicated shunter's truck which is perfect for the job.

[D605Eagle]

Hi D605Eagle Again, I notice that your wagon is different from your average wagon,
insofar as it doesn’t dave spoked wheels. Being a “Novice” at pick up wagon making, I suppose this obviously would mean replacing the spoked wheels, but would you please tell me what wheels do I need?? Happy modelling. Kev

The wagon is a conflat, and AFAIK the real thing were built with solid pan wheels. The reason I use non spoked is so the wipers can be as near to the axle as possible to reduce friction. I wouldn't recommend using Dapol wheels as not only are they often concentric, but the flanges are very low profile too and have a nasty habit of derailing when shunting.

[retiredoperator]

Hi Modellers. Thank you all for the good advice. I have just purchased a Bachmann shunters truck, the first thing I noticed, how light it is IMHO too light. If pick ups are to be effective ? Okay for derailments ? but it would be suitable for realistic Shunting speeds.
My first thoughts were to save changing Couplings on my L & Y Pug, fit a Kadee on one end of the shunters truck, I was toying with the “Liquid Gravity “ product in the Toolbox but I went to Warley at the weekend and forgot to buy it If anyone has advice on this lack of weight in the truck I would be obliged. But at least it is a Bachmann product which would be suitable for fitting the correct (?) disc wheels, any advice please? Happy modelling Kev

[retiredoperator]

Hi Modellers. Further to my project “ make a pick up wagon” and my purchase of a Bachmann shunters truck, IMHO tool light for its own good. I removed the tool box from it, straight way lost a screw, crawling about the floor, I found it. But the total weight was a mere two grams, my idea of adding liquid Gravity (looks like lead shot?) may work? But how do I get the tiny screws back without them “pinging across the room” any advice would be appreciated . Happy modelling Kev

[Bufferstop]

Putting "Liquid Gravity" in the tool box is well worth the effort. There's an almost equivalent but cheaper generic product "Fluid Lead" which is in fact fine lead shot The same end result but must not be mixed with PVA, if you've ever been troubled by MAZAK with zinc rot, fine lead shot and anything water based is far worse. Mix it with araldite of copydex, or if you have a generous space seal it in a poly bag. Both Squires and Eileen's Emporium and doubtless others on the exhibition circuit stock these products, but it's worth contacting them in advance to ensure there's a pack for you to pick up before you leave. Don't want to lug it all around the hall. They'll post it to you if you will pay for the weight.

Replacing tiny screws - get a well fitting screwdriver, put the tiniest spot of grease or anything sticky on the end of the screwdriver, then insert and tighten the screw before pulling the screwdriver away.

[D605Eagle]

A bit of blu tack in the crosshead of the screw helps no end. Even works with slot screwdrivers.

[retiredoperator]

Hi Bufferstop and D605Eagle I learned that Bachmann use cheap metal screws, which can be picked up with a magnetic screwdriver. Maybe I had better buy some liquid Gravity , the annoying thing, I went to Warley , but forgot to buy any. Happy modelling Kev

[retiredoperator]

Hi D605 eagle I hope you don’t mind? but I have been working on my version of your “ Pick up wagon “ idea . I have a similar wagon to your one, and i changed the wheels for smooth ones.
The wheels are very free running, until that is, when I glue on the pick up, it is clear to me that I have to adjust the pressure without losing the contact. Would you please tell me how you managed this? Happy modelling Kev

[D605Eagle]

The main thing is I used very thin brass sheet to cut my pickups from and adjusted them with the wheelsets out of the wagon. You want the pickups in contact with the wheelsets, but not pressing hard. The closer you get them to the axle the less friction they apply to the wheels. If you have any significant resistance to rotation then you need to take the wheelset out and adjust the pickup again. Springiness is the name of the game! If you find they are a bit squeaky when adjusted and working fine you can just touch the contact point with a tiny drop of light oil.