End To End N Gauge Layout

[Nathan20138]

Hi all. So here i go with my 1st N gauge layout, (the 00 project is on hold until i get the loft cleared out ), its going to be an end to end plan on a board measuring 5' x 6", although i may make it slightly deeper, thinking about 10" so there is room for some buildings etc and perhaps the odd extra couple of sidings if i want to add them at a latter date.

Its a pretty simple plan with some kind of industrial/construction depot at one end and a fiddle yard at the other.
Ordering some stuff from Hattons in the next couple of days but must get the board sorted out first. Also going to pick some cork underlay up in the week too.


I'm planning on having a bridge of some sort to help 'disguise' the fiddle yard, a refueling area and a holding area for a shunter.
I'll try and get a plan image up shortly, photoshop is alien to me i'm afraid.

Thats it for now, any advice will be most appreciated.

Thanks, Nathan.

[Nathan20138]

Ordering the track i'm going with peco setrack 80 as i've been told its pretty good stuff.
And two loco's, a 33 and a 47 both GF models.

[bombadillic]

I'll be interested to see this develop, I'm currently considering moving from 00 to N gauge as I'm planning a model of Seamer Station, LNER-BR. Have you tried using any of the railway software out there to create your plan i.e. XTrkCad or Anyrail?

[Nathan20138]

Hi there. No i've not tried using any of the afore mentioned software. I'll look into it though.

[Raider]

Any reason with sticking with Set track? You may find that it is cheaper (and you'd get more flexibility) if you went for flexi track.

You'd need to get the fishplates and a pair of xeuron cutters, but I think you'd find it worthwhile.

Longer points would also give a more realistic track spacing, although they would take up more length.

[Nathan20138]

Hi, yeah i suppose i could use flexi track. i'll not know how much i'll need until i get the points.

I think i was intending to use shorter points so i had the longest possibile run to the fiddle yard.
On this subject i'm unsure what type to use. Insul or electro frogs? Also wiring up things always confuse me but i'll sort this when i come to it.

Could i get away with using a fine junior hacksaw to cut the track?

[phonebook]

if you use setrack points, then you are confined to insulfrog

[Nathan20138]

Right, ok, not a problem, i think/hope. Will it be a problem wiring it up? I'm having a double track with a runaround loop.

I will get a track plan up tommorrow hopefully.

[Nathan20138]

Ok so got the flexi track, got the points on order and a couple of loco's, all should arrive in next couple of days, hopefully, so tommorow i shall set about the woodwork. Can't physically get into the shed at the moment so that should be fun.

Had no luck whatsoever drawing a track plan up so you'll all have to wait until i pre lay the track, unless i take a photo of one drawn in biro on a peice of paper.

[Nathan20138]

Oh btw, can any one recomend the best way to tack/fix down the track onto the board? I'm going to use a roll of cork, maybe about 1/16" or even 1/8" in thickness, but with the flexi track not having pre drilled sleepers i'm thinking it'll be a tad tricky driving or even pushing standard track pins through the sleepers. I'm concerned they may split.

I should mention that I won't be ballasting, yet/for a while so glue may be a messy option?



Thanks, Nathan.

[ste234]

I've not used underlay, but have used track pins with no problems, just use a pair of long nose pliers and be gentle. It takes some getting used to so as not to bend the pin over.

[bassman308]

Hello Nathan,as you are working in N i would sugest you use peco sl14 track pins.I would also suggest a pair of xeuron track cutters,they may seem a little expensive but are a great investment, they cut the track cleanly and straight so no filling off burrs.As to pinning the track people do it in different ways.The way i do it is with pliers a pinpunch and a small hammer.Holding the pin in your pliers close to the point gently push the pin into the sleeper,till you feel it against the board,adjust your grip on the pin then with a little more force push into board a little at a time,when just over half way i give a few taps using hammer and punch.Dont drive pins all the way just in case you need to make any adjutments to the track.I personally dont leave the pins in as after ballasting, the track will be secure.Maybe it might be an idea to put a piece of track on a piece of scrap wood and practice before the "Big job".Good luck.!! Bassman

[Nathan20138]

Thanks ste & bassman, patience it seems shall be the key. I'll definately have a practice board though.

I did wonder at one point if there were really small 'horse shoe' pins availiable but then realised i was being silly.

I'll have all my track, points and loco's all under one roof by monday so i will get to work properly.

I've got a weathered 20 on the way, can't wait!!! Love 'Choppers!'





Cheers, Nathan.

[Sprintex]

Love 'Choppers!'

Err . . . . .


Paul

[bassman308]

The 20 runs beautifully, straight from the box my friend.Enjoy!!!!