OK, I move house on Friday next week and the attic is floored and lit so I have decided to build a train set. I had a OO gauge layout as a kid and fancy trying to build something that as an adult child I will enjoy.
I've spent the week buying bits on eBay (Just won 45 sets of points for £30!) and so have enough track and some rolling stock. My Grandfather sadly died last year and left me a nice, never used mainline steam train from his collection. I also have 2 from my child hood (one a GWR shunter and the other a black mainline steam train).
I have designed a layout, not to scale yet but I am guessing about 10 foot by 10 foot with the control area in the center.
Due to the size of the loft size is not a problem, but the joists will no doubt cause me all kinds of problems.
I have never built a model in my life so can't wait to encounter a million and one problems that we can discuss. I plan to put photos on here as my progress continues.
This is my plan:
http://www.railwaypictures.co.uk/img875.htm
The area to the top right may look confusing. The main two lines stay at board level and simply go through the tunnel. The other line should be about 8-10cm above the board and go in and out of the "mountain" I will model, reappearing in two quarries.
The red dots show where power points need to be placed. I intend to use just 3 controllers, two dedicated to the main lines and one with switches on the power cables to switch between shunting areas (I can't shunt two trains at once!).
No idea as yet how I am going to get the track to raise or whether I can get it to raise slowly enough so that I can get trains up it. Only my shunter and small open wagons will go into the mines btw.
Any discussion/suggestions appreciated.
Zan
Complete starter, follow my progress
Looks like a nice layout there.
Not sure which way round the trains are going to run, but you seem to have both the exchanges from 1 loop to the other going the same way. This will mean that you will have to reverse trains from one loop to the other. This could be resolved by swapping one of the sets of points round.
On the incline front, it is best to experiment and make sure that any loco with the number of wagons on that you want to go up can make it.
Keep the photos of your progress coming
Chris
Not sure which way round the trains are going to run, but you seem to have both the exchanges from 1 loop to the other going the same way. This will mean that you will have to reverse trains from one loop to the other. This could be resolved by swapping one of the sets of points round.
On the incline front, it is best to experiment and make sure that any loco with the number of wagons on that you want to go up can make it.
Keep the photos of your progress coming
Chris
Yes the exchanges are the same way as I see the trains mainly going clockwise. However I could add an extra exchange going the other way.
The reason for that set up is that I could make a continuous train go (clockwise) up the mines, round and down onto the outer line, down to the bottom, past the bottom station, round the bottom left bend, up and exchange to the inner line, then through the tunnel, past the station, round the entire circuit and then back up to the mines again.
Daft I know, but it'd entertain me whilst shunting... I couldn't work out a way of doing it with an exchange the other way round.
Zan
The reason for that set up is that I could make a continuous train go (clockwise) up the mines, round and down onto the outer line, down to the bottom, past the bottom station, round the bottom left bend, up and exchange to the inner line, then through the tunnel, past the station, round the entire circuit and then back up to the mines again.
Daft I know, but it'd entertain me whilst shunting... I couldn't work out a way of doing it with an exchange the other way round.
Zan
Hi Zan,
A lot of people use a separate piece of MDF or plywood for the inclines. Just cut it to the required shape (normally just wide enough for the track)and then mount on wooden risers at the required height.
There are plenty of examples on this website, though I can't remember where they are!!
Also Pete and dr5euss (page 5) have used an open frame work on their layouts. You may find this useful on the mountain/quarry area.
Nice plan by the way, 10/10 for a first attempt
A lot of people use a separate piece of MDF or plywood for the inclines. Just cut it to the required shape (normally just wide enough for the track)and then mount on wooden risers at the required height.
There are plenty of examples on this website, though I can't remember where they are!!
Also Pete and dr5euss (page 5) have used an open frame work on their layouts. You may find this useful on the mountain/quarry area.
Nice plan by the way, 10/10 for a first attempt
Hi Zan,
Now that you have explained where the incline bit is I can see what you mean. It was just a thought that you might want to go from the inner loop to the outer loop without going through the mines. You could always add the extra 2 points at a later date without too much trouble if you find you want this ability.
I have managed to get an incline that most of my trains can get up in about 5'. This reaches a height just a bit taller than the Skaledale single tunnel portals if that helps.
Chris
Now that you have explained where the incline bit is I can see what you mean. It was just a thought that you might want to go from the inner loop to the outer loop without going through the mines. You could always add the extra 2 points at a later date without too much trouble if you find you want this ability.
I have managed to get an incline that most of my trains can get up in about 5'. This reaches a height just a bit taller than the Skaledale single tunnel portals if that helps.
Chris
I have taken a look at the plans and turned the exchange round that is in the bottom right, that doesn't effect the "circuit" and allows movement both ways regardless of track direction. Seeing as I am lucky enough to have two locos (Assuming they both still work) I can then run one in each direction.
I really need another shunter as that one is going to be very busy running jobs from the mines, to the docks (shunting area to the right), the petrol works (Little area below the mines) and the main shunting area (below the top station).
The ideas of a board for the incline is a good one, but how do you start and end it without creating a "lip" as it were that would create a bend in the track, lifting the wheels off the rails?
I also want to infil under the rise to create a manmade looking enbankment. This will also help hide some more of the left hand track from view before it enters the tunnel making the layout look less like a circular track and a little more "realistic".
Early days yet, once I move in and put all the track out on the floor to see where the base boards will go I will have to make alterations as the loft is a modern one with a million and one roof support struts.
I'll take a photo of the bare loft when I move in and one with the track laid out to give an impression of over all size and try and work out what boards I need (And what'll fit through the loft hatch)
Zan
I really need another shunter as that one is going to be very busy running jobs from the mines, to the docks (shunting area to the right), the petrol works (Little area below the mines) and the main shunting area (below the top station).
The ideas of a board for the incline is a good one, but how do you start and end it without creating a "lip" as it were that would create a bend in the track, lifting the wheels off the rails?
I also want to infil under the rise to create a manmade looking enbankment. This will also help hide some more of the left hand track from view before it enters the tunnel making the layout look less like a circular track and a little more "realistic".
Early days yet, once I move in and put all the track out on the floor to see where the base boards will go I will have to make alterations as the loft is a modern one with a million and one roof support struts.
I'll take a photo of the bare loft when I move in and one with the track laid out to give an impression of over all size and try and work out what boards I need (And what'll fit through the loft hatch)
Zan
If your loft hatch is the same size as mine, you will strugle to fit anything wider than 2' through.
Sounds like you have the same loft support construction as mine - I have used these supports to mount parts of the layout on - take at look as my thread in this section of the forum to see what I mean.
Chris
Sounds like you have the same loft support construction as mine - I have used these supports to mount parts of the layout on - take at look as my thread in this section of the forum to see what I mean.
Chris
This website tells you how the inclines are done without a lip.
If your loft hatch is quite small they are quite easy to elongate by cutting out the plasterboard between the joists. If it hasn't got a loft ladder and you are planning to get one then you would probably have to lengthen the opening anyway.
Trev
If your loft hatch is quite small they are quite easy to elongate by cutting out the plasterboard between the joists. If it hasn't got a loft ladder and you are planning to get one then you would probably have to lengthen the opening anyway.
Trev
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joshing_man
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Here you go Andrew http://www.ospreyweb.pwp.blueyonder.co. ... ine-01.htm
Our loft hatch was half the size of this but we opened it up so we could get the 8x2 loft boards into the loft.
Our loft hatch was half the size of this but we opened it up so we could get the 8x2 loft boards into the loft.
Click here to see my Progress with my Scalextric Hobby Progress updated (17/09/07)
R.I.P Sam our very much loved family pet dog who sadly passed away on the 3/6/2010 early hours in the morning in my mums arms on route to the vets.
R.I.P Sam our very much loved family pet dog who sadly passed away on the 3/6/2010 early hours in the morning in my mums arms on route to the vets.
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