Photography Hints and Tips

Post anything here to do with Model Railway Photography

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BrianT
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Postby BrianT » Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:08 am

Thanks.

I was taking some new snaps today and wondered if a " how I do it" would be of interest.

Image

Image

Brian.

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sanctuary
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Postby sanctuary » Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:19 am

I would certainly appreciate you doing it Brian.

Thanks for another great picture. I've popped it in to the virtual exhibition part 3 folder if you don't mind.
Tight Lines Aidan

Linka to Pawford Layout

BrianT
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Postby BrianT » Mon Mar 05, 2007 10:45 am

"virtual exhibition part 3 folder " What's that Aiden?

Anyway glad you liked it.

Brian.

m.levin
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Postby m.levin » Mon Mar 05, 2007 11:16 am

Hi Brain what's the best way to improve the lighting when taking a picture. I only have a cheep camera, I know this wont help.

BrianT
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Postby BrianT » Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:24 pm

Hi Brain what's the best way to improve the lighting when taking a picture



Try moving would be one suggestion. :D :D

The picture was taken with available light from a small widow. The overall one was taken with a Leica Digilux2 and it's little pop up flash.

A l mini tripod would be a good investment.

Brian.

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sanctuary
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Postby sanctuary » Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:31 pm

BrianT wrote:"virtual exhibition part 3 folder " What's that Aiden?

Anyway glad you liked it.

Brian.


Its a project I did over the weekend, were I gathered pictures from the forum to make a virtual exhibition of members layouts. Your layout is featured in Click here to watch New-Railway-Modellers-Virtual-Exhibition-part-1 there is also part 2 Click here to watch Railway-Modellers-Virtual-Exhibition-part-2. I'm in the proses of gathering pictures for part 3, which will require all new pictures being posted to the forum as I have used all the available pictures from the personal layout section of the forum.

Your offer to show how to take pictures will help achieve part 3, as I have requested if members will take pictures, of sections of their own layouts that have been finished to exhibition standards. I was not able to use some pictures from the personal layout section because they were not of good quality, blurred or dark. So your offer of a how to take pictures would be appreciated by me.
Tight Lines Aidan



Linka to Pawford Layout

m.levin
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Postby m.levin » Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:37 pm

Thanks Brian

Being a yorkshire man Ill make one at work, hell of a lot cheeper. ;)

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sanctuary
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Postby sanctuary » Mon Mar 05, 2007 5:48 pm

The Putfile site seems to have gone down Brian, thats why the links are not working.

Try these hosted by Youtube, Virtual Exhibition part 1

Virtual Exhibition part 2

I seem to have missed read your post re How To, I thought you meant you were going to explain how to take photographs, lighting etc.

I agree we all do have different standards, but for the purposes of my exercise the standard is just a sharp clear picture, of a layout that does not show bare baseboard, has a modicum of interest,and is clear of glue tubes, beer cans etc.

I hope you enjoyed your Tea :lol: :lol:
Tight Lines Aidan



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mumbles
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Postby mumbles » Mon Mar 05, 2007 5:50 pm

BrianT wrote:A lot of photography here isn't very good I agree. However there is no excuse. With even the simplest digital camera it is possible to produce very acceptable pictures. But time and effort, experimentation and above all a setting of a personal standard at a high enough level before posting is all that is required.

i agree. it does frustrate me to see out of focus shots, especially accompanied by 'look at this, tell me what yo think!' close ups :?
i do struggle myself sometimes to get in-focus shots, i find auto focus sometimes struggles to identify what it is focusing on. more often than not thoough, these photos are not put on my thread. if i'm going to eat up someones bandwidth i see it only fair that the shot is well lit, either flash or ambiently and in focus to an extent that the subject is clear enough to see.
i think is very important to know a bit about your camera to take succesful pics. like how close or not you can be for the camera to focus [focal length] if its say 60cm to infintity is isn't going to take those close up shots no matter what, and i know my macro setting is about 6cm, so any closer and it isn't going to work. if you work with in the capabilities of the camera you get the results, as you know brian :wink:
michael

BrianT
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Postby BrianT » Mon Mar 05, 2007 8:53 pm

Well said Michael

Half the problem is a lot of modern technology tends to make the user go into some sort of intellectual meltdown. All the auto this and auto that lead the user to switch off the brain before using. Well it just ain't true. Anyone who takes the time and trouble to learn how to apply modern technology and who has identified it's limits will always beat the " Wham bang, thank you man" approach.

Every time a post is submitted the author should have the decency to make sure it is the best he can do. As Michael says bandwidth is a consideration. in fact I probable use too much, therefore I will restrict my usage more in future.

Brian.

mumbles
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Postby mumbles » Mon Mar 05, 2007 8:59 pm

BrianT wrote: therefore I will restrict my usage more in future.



don't do that!! we'd all loose out, if anything i'm sure many members would like to see more.
michael

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mortyfootball
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Postby mortyfootball » Mon Mar 05, 2007 9:00 pm

Bandwith use is minimal
Currently on the rails with my camera

BrianT
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Postby BrianT » Tue Mar 06, 2007 10:58 am

O.K. but things like bandwidth I know nothing about.

This corner leads on to the last bit of the baseboard.



Image

Looking the other way.

Image

Und yetz eine mal. With apology to all German speakers.... :D :D

Image

So 3/4 of the layout just needs detailing/ populating etc. However work downstairs on the Southern layout will take priority from the end of April for the summer.

Michael, the auto focus works on edge contrast. Try putting something, for instance a couple of coins, a small piece of track....anything with a clear edge on the position you want to focus. Also remember that in simple terms for a given aperture the focus range will be 1/3rd towards the camera from the point of focus and 2/3rds away from it. I.E 'depth of field from the Hyper focal distance, stopping down increases the depth of field. With digital compact cameras it works slightly differently but the effect is roughly the same. However with tiny sensors and extremely short focal lengths the depth of field is enormous.

Sorry if this is teaching granny to suck eggs, it's not meant to be. :D

Brian

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sanctuary
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Postby sanctuary » Tue Mar 06, 2007 1:26 pm

Your certainly not teaching this soon to be Grandad, how to suck eggs. I think I understand what your saying, if I focus on a point in the picture the camera needs something that has a defined change. Such as a defined change of colour to set the focus at that point, and when the camera takers the picture a 1/3 of the foreground will be in focus and 2/3 of the background, is that correct Brian ?.

Now we get to the bit I don't understand, what is a stopping ?

I hope you don't mind me asking these questions Brian

Once again Great Pictures of some excellent modelling
Tight Lines Aidan



Linka to Pawford Layout

BrianT
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Postby BrianT » Tue Mar 06, 2007 2:31 pm

Oh dear what have I started.

The trouble is this subject is huge and if we are not careful we shall all end up going round in a circle of confusion. ( Some will realise this is no idle threat..

But let's have a go. Camera lenses are fitted with a diaphragm which controls the amount of light that can pass through. The diameter of this variable aperture is measured in 'F' numbers...commonly referred to as 'stops' The measurement is obtained by dividing the focal...wait a minute, just take my word for it. The stops themselves are indicated by numbers F2, F2.8, F3.5 etc etc. Now the higher the number the smaller the aperture...come on just read on. And the smaller the aperture the greater the depth of field you are looking for a number of F11/ F16 however a lot of digital cameras only go down to F8 for reasons much too complicated to explain ( and totally unnecessary). I'm afraid this explanation only touches the surface. The 1/3 2/3 rule for instance is a proportion of the distance from the camera to the subject hence infinitely variable. A 50mm at F8 l focused on an object at 100 yard will have about 30 yards in front and 100yards behind. Now think of taking a picture on your layout with the subject at 150mm....get the idea? Yes now it's only 50mm in front and 100mm behind same aperture but remember it's a fraction of the distance. Another overriding consideration is the focal length of the lens, the longer the focal length the less the depth of field, Whoops too many terms, range of focus, Ah but even here 'range of focus' has an entirely different meaning.

All totally confused? right. Throw that lot out of the window

Alright are you following? Decide where you want the sharpest point of focus to be, place something easily identified by the auto focus if required. Stop the lens down to it's smallest aperture F8 or so. Then with the camera properly supported and using the self timer take the snap. Examine it closely for the area of sharpness. you will soon get the idea. So..look this is getting a bit much.

No, colour difference doesn't give the auto focus much help, you need an edge.
Image


Depth of field here? About 1' to 20', how? Well that's another story. :D

Brian. Oh and Circle of Confusion?

Imagine a single point of light cast onto the surface of a sensor or piece of film. If the image is totally in focus then that point should appear as a point. But if the image is out of focus then the point will appear as a small blurry disc.

No lens is optically perfect. So any point will appear as a blurry circle when enlarged enough even at the most perfect focus attainable. The smallest circle that looks like a point to the eye is considered the circle of confusion.

The concept is particularly important to depth of field calculations. Values of 0.025mm and 0.03mm are typically cited as reasonable circle of confusion diameters for 35mm film.
Last edited by BrianT on Tue Mar 06, 2007 5:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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