Beginner tips for getting started and not failing (also exhibition advice)

[potatan]

After a visit to Miniatur Wunderland last year, and following a lifetime of interest in tiny things, I’m about to take up railway modelling from scratch and have a few questions about my approach, and what might be some pitfalls that may be barriers to success.

I’ve decided that I think I want to use OO gauge stock with DCC control, probably on code 100 with insulfrogs, and I’ve bought a nice beginners layout and advice book from Peco, installed AnyRail, and watched a few Youtube videos from the likes of:

https://www.youtube.com/@ThatModelRailwayGuy
https://www.youtube.com/@DonegalDadRail
https://www.youtube.com/@BudgetModelRailways

I’m a details man so will be spending a while trying to understand a few of the ins and outs of creating a layout - is there a glossary of modelling terms and abbreviations somewhere?

But I’m still pondering where to begin. I realise everybody will start from a different point and have different goals but I feel there is some sort of continuum between acquiring a second-hand set and laying it all out for a play on the dining table before discovering the motors are a bit burnt out, versus constructing my own baseboards and spending £1000 on engines, carriages and scenery (which considering my visit to the local model centre today would not be hard to spend at all). I’m not after instant results but I don’t want to get disheartened by trying to create a decent size layout and taking six months before I even see a train running on it.

So a few questions:

What advice would you give yourself if you were starting again from scratch?
How easy is it to tear down and rebuild a layout if you get it wrong and want to start again?
Also - I’ve got tickets for the BRM show at the NEC in 3 weeks; as a totally new starter what can I do there that might help me, other than marvel at the 60+ layouts of course!

Thanks to all in advance.

[Dad-1]

Not even read it all yet, BUT first.
Nothing wrong with Peco code 100, tough as old boots & ideal for
a much used exhibition layout, BUT PLEASE go for Live frog pointwork.
If not you will regret it for the rest of your time !!

I shall now go back to read it all, but a bit tired after running a layout
all day, and out tomorrow as well !!

Geoff T.

[aleopardstail]

well with Leopard street, even though its quite new and far from my first layout a few things I'd do differently

- plan the woodwork carefully, consider where holes are needed for wiring (or accept wires clipped where they fit)
- if it will be modular/sectional, experiment with the section joins, I'd go as far as to say build the ends of two sections and actually experiment
- for gradients think how they will be secured to risers - e.g. mine are screed to stripwood upright but the ends are not angled so it distorts the incline
- really think about what sort of trains you want to run, make sure sidings will be long enough and be realistic about space constraints.
- think hard on curve minimum radius, I have 18" minimum, I'd re-work to 21" starting again even though this would mean some board sections being oddball sizes, speaking of which..
- be willing to accept the baseboard will be wasteful if it helps the layout, e.g. if you need a 4'3" length board or compromise on the track.. make the board 4'3" even if it means offcuts
- budget it (I did this but I'm glad I did) to be realistic on what this will cost, if you plan it over several years keep in mind inflation
- plan the location, and spend time preparing it - e.g. do you have enough power sockets? (the answer is no, you always need more), what about storage? what else does the location have to cope with? e.g. work bench? office?

I would suggest thinking on electrofrogs over insufrog, they are not that much harder to use - for example the frog can be powered from switch rails and doesn't need to be wired up directly, and unless you are going for "settrack" type points they are the same sizes as insufrog ones

DCC is good, think carefully on how you want to use it and pick a suitable system, e.g. do you care about automation? if not keep the wiring simple, if you think you may plan out sections.

if you have not had a layout before to be honest its probably worth getting a trainset and experimenting, set track curves etc are useful with Code 100 PECO stuff so apart from the points (set track points are to me, horrible) its useful but it gives a chance to experiment, a loop to run trains in on never hurts either in DC mode anyway - even on a kitchen table

how hard is it to rebuild? a lot comes down to the baseboard, if you have a "flat" layout its reasonably simple (hint: use copydex to fix the track, not nails, easier to lift!)

would seriously suggest starting smaller if you have nothing, find one of the 6'x4' type track plans, and then maybe expand it a bit - 8'x5' if you have space is excellent, if not 6'x4' is fine - indeed literally going set track, manual points, a simple cloth to sit on a dining table and then a DCC controller via track clips is not a bad way to start (indeed can start with DC and upgrade later)

this is basically as simple as it gets, grab a "trainset", get a second loops of track (2nd or 3rd radius, whichever the set doesn't have, and a couple more points - the Hornby trackmat layout is pants but not a bad place to start and see if you are actually interested and comes in a form that can be shoved on eBay if you don't like it

glossary.. not sure, but feel free to ask.

another way to start is an "inglenook", these are small shunting puzzles, but only need one loco and a few wagons without taking much space - not a bad way to start if you want to experiment with scenic stuff

oh yes, and welcome

[Dad-1]

After that first instant reply a more relaxed appraisal.

Why do you want a layout ? What is it that attracts you ?

Then how much space do you have ?
How much time do you have?
How much do you want to spend?

Those 3 questions are applicable to anyone, which one are you weak on ??
For many of us and this includes me SPACE is the killer. I'm retired so I have time,
I could afford to go out tomorrow and blow 5K, but where ??????

Unless you have plenty of space looking for a large layout is planning for failure.
Been there and done that.

I have never fancied buying anyone else's railway, for me it's all about MY imagination.
Even then I got it wrong, I didn't know that it was the 'Traffic' that attracted me. I went
for the BR blue diesels period, by which time freight had become boring 'Block Trains'.
It took me time to realise that old fashioned wagon freight was a key in my interest.

In short learn from a small beginning, during which time you will develop skills that can
later help in that more significant future build.
There are stories and layout development a plenty in the Layouts Under Construction threads.

More advice later perhaps when we understand more of your motives.

Geoff T.

[centenary]

So a few questions:

What advice would you give yourself if you were starting again from scratch?
How easy is it to tear down and rebuild a layout if you get it wrong and want to start again?
Also - I’ve got tickets for the BRM show at the NEC in 3 weeks; as a totally new starter what can I do there that might help me, other than marvel at the 60+ layouts of course!

Thanks to all in advance.

Plan, plan, plan then plan some more.

You need to plan what you want for your layout, industrial, country scenic, urban etc. Dont plan to have your track right up to the edge of your baseboards. Best to have 4 or 5" from the track to the edge so you can build embankments etc.

You not only need to plan your layout, you need to plan your baseboards so supports dont get in the way of your point motors positioning, connectors and wiring. Then plan where your DCC station is going to go, how to get your power to it and also your bus wiring.

If you're starting from scratch and using DCC, Id respectfully say ditch ideas of Code 100 track. Nothing spoils a layout more imho than Code 100 especially in set track. Go for Code 75 either flat bottomed rail or Bullhead which looks very nice, again, imho. Id also suggest ditching insulfrogs. If you go with Code 75 bullhead, Peco's Unifrogs are excellent and make it virtually impossible to have wiring issues and shorts even when using metail rail joiners.

Jut my 6 pence worth!

[Bigmet]

...What advice would you give yourself if you were starting again from scratch? ...

There are no rules governing what constitutes 'railway modelling'; ignore all those who push 'my way or the highway'. Take your time to understand your own interests and tastes (of the latter you have already identified a liking for detail) ideally holding back on the spending until you have a good idea of what items will be of long term interest and contribute to your enjoyment of the hobby.

To create a good working layout - if that's your objective - does require a little engineering understanding for reliable results; this comes more easily for some, but patience will get you there. A key skill to learn if it isn't already in your toolkit is electrical soldering. This saves a fortune in making reliable electrical connections by DIY rather than 'clip on' connectors, and in continuing maintenance and repairs.

[Phred]

Welcome potatan.
Lots of good advice already posted above. Have fun!

[Flashbang]

Hi potatan,
You have already stated that OO code 100 is your chosen gauge, so work to that.
I would suggest you avoid Setrack where possible and where space permits aim for at least 24" inch (600mm) minimum radius curves on all the scenic sections.
Use Electrofrog points or even consider Unifrog points when available. IMO there is absolutely nothing wrong with Code 100 rail profile once the track is ballasted and the rail sides painted a rusty colour! Its an ideal rail profile for a beginner to work with.

But lets deal with the very beginnings.... What space have you available? You will be surprised by the amount of room normally needed for a OO layout. Plan your track layout carefully ensuring it offers the best possible running opportunities for the space available.
The foundation of any model railway is the baseboard(s). If they are not strong enough to support whatever is placed above, you will suffer a lifetime of poor running. Think of the baseboard as being like the foundations of your house, poorly laid foundations result soon in cracks appearing!
Next, decide if the layout is to be a fixed never to leave home type or a portable sectional layout that can be taken down and moved about. Portable layouts of course need more work with their baseboards, the tracks spanning the two adjacent boards and electrical wiring.
Don't expect to get things running in a week. Often a few months are spent getting track laid and tested before moving on. Ensure a range of locos are tested on the tracks before finally ballasting.

Good luck and enjoy the hobby.

[Ex-Pat]

Welcome potatan

I wholeheartedly agree with the advice already given to use Live-Frog points and flexible track (i.e. avoid Set-track, and use good old-fashioned paper and pencil for drawing up the track layout).

As mentioned, "plan, plan, plan" is also vital for avoiding mistakes (although not guaranteed!). Try to be patient - it all takes time.

Do you want fact or fiction? If the former then I would recommend visiting: http://www.disused-stations.org.uk/

Hundreds of stations are covered and many have detailed track plans - you might just find your dream location to model.

If the latter then most operators of layouts at exhibitions are happy to answer questions if they're not too busy operating.

Best of luck.

[4472]

If you are contemplating running coach stock ensure you leave enough space on the inside of bends to allow for the overhang

[Mountain]

Questions...

What is your budget.

What are you intending to achieve?

What I mean by this, is that just as there are many prototype railway scenes to copy in all sizes, from sit and ride prototypes to massive American or Australian, Russian or Chinese prototypes and everything else inbetween which may be out there, with careful thought, one can achieve something nice without spending a fortune if one knows what one is doing and takes the right approach.

If one is on a budget, before one starts, ask yourself if you neccessarily need the more expensive things, and can one do it cheaper, as there are ways and means of modelling without the big spend and headaches that come with it!

For a complete beginner, if a basic trainset is available it is a good start "If" it contains the loco and rolling stock one is happy with. One can learn the principles quickly and easily with such a set, and if one wants to go DCC, one may need a simple DC controller for loco testing before one fits decoders, (As it is not a good idea to buy a loco and fit a decoder without a DC test).
But apart from that, one does get to learn things from starting off with the basics, and one can use the track and mix it with other track as one goes along, especially if the track has the same railheight (Code).
One can also mix electrofrog and insulfrog points on the same layout so if one has a turnout one has included as part of the trainset (If one starts that way) one can include it in a lesser used siding or behind the scenes...

If one does not mind what types of railway prototypes one wants to follow, there is a potential way to enjoy the hobby which can lead to an adventure in its own without the "Big spend", and this is what I do, which takes place by combining "Freelance" modelling with narrow gauge using 00 gauge track with in the more suitable 7mm scale. (7 mm scale is slightly larger so I find making things out of budget materials a lot easier). The combined gauge and scale is generally known in the UK as 0-16.5, but is also known in Europe as 0e, and in America as 0n30 (Though American prototypes are BIG and can be costly in ready made form).
Since then, Bachmann have entered into the 7mm narrow gauge scene (As well as Lionheart) and started making factory made models. Lionheart started with larger prototypes, but Bachmann sensibly took on smaller prototypes (Did I mention one doesn't need a lot of space in narrow gauge?), and Bachmann have called their 0-16.5 models under a new term meaning the same thing, being 'NG7'.
Understandably, in ANY scale and gauge, the more things one makes oneself, the more money one will save.

Another way of saving money is by buying secondhand. Several years ago I attended Two or three lovely exhibitions in Wales, and the last of these was in Swansea organized by a large model railway club there.
While going round this exhibition in Swansea, I noticed how every single 00 gauge layout was running older models by Triang or Lima and these were improved and done up to excellent standards. I asked why not buy new? The reply came again and again "I can't afford new, butI can afford these and I have time to work on these and improve them". All of these model railways that I could see were running DC, again for budgeting reasons.

Now if one learns how to get the best out of DC, so locos stop in areas that they would normally stop at so very few isolating sections are needed (Why I day planning saves costs and wiring!) the only real operational advantage if one gets it right, is that DCC has the ability to control sound and lights. I did see one thing I loved with my Lenz DCC system is that I can unplug one of my handsets and the loco will continue down the layout, and plug in the handset at the other end of the layout to immediately take control which I loved the novelty of it, but apart from lights, I found DCC a bit of a frustrating bore (Takes ages to program each decoder to get them "Just right" where with DC one hardly thinks about it, just turns a knob and off one goes!)
DCC sound was novel with one loco, but then one wants to convert ones entire fleet, and if one ever does that the sound drone of many sounds echoeing in ones room or exhibition hall is just too much! (An aspect of exhibition halls that gives me issues... Later found out a link between that and autism, so maybe others get on better with many sounds bouncing round halls!).
But anyway! I hope you ave success with whatever route you go! THERE IS NO RIGHT OR WRONG WAY TO GO MODELLING. (As long as one is safe and can afford what one does!) I only share my thoughts...

[kebang]

One reason (possibly the only reason) for not using setrack is that it is not available in your country of residence and international postage rates for parcels that are a meter long Is astronomical! (This is why all of my layouts published here are setrack.)
As others have said planning is vital. Strongly recommend downloading 'Anyrail' as a valuable planning tool

[Dad-1]

Also "Exhibition Advice" added at the end of your introduction.

Do you fancy making a layout and taking it as an exhibition display ? That is what I think from
your final few words.

Now starting from scratch and wanting to take out brings many other considerations. It's aiming
very high as a beginner. However not beyond reason, but do you have any experience of attending
any other shows as an exhibitor ?? My first layout was made for exhibitions although I had a long
background of attending modelling exhibitions, over 20 years in fact and exhibited in France, Belgium
and Germany.

I think you need to tell us more before we go into any finer detail.

Geoff T.

[Bigmet]

After a visit to Miniatur Wunderland ...
Also - I’ve got tickets for the BRM show at the NEC in 3 weeks; as a totally new starter what can I do there that might help me...

I had to think about this question a little.

The immense HO system layouts you have seen in Hamburg: put in some thought about what you most enjoyed, and why. Don't lose sight of the fact that this is achieved with plenty of cash and a significant skilled work force.

The big show is tiring, so aim to get there rested, keep yourself hydrated, and take time for relaxation and refreshment. Think about questions you want answers to, should you get the chance to speak to the person, or one of the people, working a layout.

If you happen on an exhibit that you enjoy, and the people working it are friendly, and they are from a model railway club based reasonably close to where you live: ask if attending a club evening is possible. Much of 'the core essentials in railway modelling technique' I acquired, came from a local MRC in my later teens, and that has been the foundation that supports my continuing interest in making and operating a model railway.

[potatan]

Thanks to all for the responses, a perfect set really. Any new complex undertaking can seem a little overwhelming to begin with so it's been great to read the replies, it's really helping me to decide my next steps. I need to research code 75 versus code 100, clearly, but have a lot more thinking and planning to do before I get to that stage.

Thanks to Bigmet and Dad-1 for considering the exhibition question. I'm not planning to exhibit as I'm a complete beginner so it would be some achievement to get something together in the next 19 days. I just wasn't sure what would even be at the exhibition, so it's nice to have a few tips. I'll go along, looks at the layouts, and talk to whoever will listen to me.

I know of a club about 7 miles from me so I'll see if I can find details for that and try and get along.

Thanks again - looking forward to posting more newbie questions as I progress.

Edit: trouble tagging others so removed them