009 Couplings

[kebang]

Due to space restrictions I'm thinking of building a small 009 layout, using 'ready to run' UK rolling stock. One of the most enjoyable parts of my 00 modelling is shunting movements, uncoupling using either the Brian Kirby magnetic method, or using a strip of cellophane secured above the sleepers, between the rails. Due to my location (Philippines) I will not be able to examine the couplings until I purchase some rolling stock. I don't want to make an expensive mistake! Can anyone tell me if 009 couplings (as fitted to peco rolling stock) can be uncoupled in this fashion, or by another simple method?
(I've examined all the 009 Utube vids I can find but none of them show any coupling/uncoupling movements)
thanks

[Bigmet]

What is usually used supplied on RTR is a 'hook and loop' style coupler.

I picked a wagon that shows it fairly clearly, the image will enlarge if clicked on.
https://www.bachmann.co.uk/product/cate ... 7613336660

I would suggest that if there's a standard coupler mounting on UK OO9, it would be worth looking at the Microtrains coupler - this was spun off from Kadee to offer a knuckle coupler for N gauge - because that works for auto uncoupling.

Keep in mind I have zero experience of OO9, someone using it care to advise?

[Bufferstop]

Yes you can use a ramp to uncouple the standard 009 couplers, but due to the very light weight of most 009 stock it's best to make them mechanically/electrically raised. Sprung ramps have a tendency to lift the stock rather than be pressed down.
Here's a better picture of the beast
https://peco-uk.com/products/n-g-coupli ... 3c43&_ss=r

[kebang]

Thank You Bigmet & Bufferstop!
I now have a clear understanding of how the couplings work. If weight is added to the rolling stock (and the loco can cope with the extra weight) then a ramp system should work, otherwise a lifting plate system, similar to 00 Hornby's uncoupling track should do the trick. Hopefully other forum members will chime in with their coupling/uncoupling tips and experiences.

[kebang]

3 x 009 narrow gauge 4 wheel coaches arrived today from 'Rails of Sheffield' (5 weeks in the post so anticipation has been huge!). Dismayed to see the actual small size of the couplings (They looked bigger in the photo )
I'm pleased I haven't committed to the purchase of an 009 loco yet, I'll probably try to scratch build something with a Kato 109 power unit, or use a resin body from Narrow Minded Railworks (one on order so probably another 5 weeks postal wait!) I don't think the 009 couplings are going to be any easier to operate than the 'Arnold' type N couplings.
Anybody got any comments on that?
I have a couple of Kato 'Pocket Line' goods trains (extremely cheap here, 25gbp direct from Japan, inc. post) so the 2 locos can be broken up for their 109 power units and the 4 pieces of rolling stock can be butchered for their chassis and turned into 4 wheel 009 coaches.
They can all continue to use N couplers, unless anyone has any better solutions..
Thanks

[Mountain]

You may find it fun to have a go at copying things by casting the. in resin. Not saying it will work but it will be great fun trying!
Resin is good for casting things like vehicle bodies, but I was thinking about the couplings. If one could cast their main body structure and make wire loops etc (Or design ones own coupling (Or coupling adapter) to work with them, resin may be an idea as one can cast many... If it works.
Either way the experience gained is worth the effort, even if one ends up using it for something simple such a waggon bodies or chassis parts and things like that.
(I do find the larger scales easier for making things but they do work in smaller scales. Is more that finer edges for the smaller items being cast may be more prone to break.
BUT I have been reading about various things one can use in the casting as additives to either strengthen the casting pieces or colour them or add a different texture of finish. (There are also different types of resin).
Either way it is worth learning more!

[kebang]

I've been experimenting with the Peco 009 couplings and N gauge couplings with very little success. I think a shunting layout will be extremely frustrating in N or 009! So I've decided to build an inverted fig 8 loop and just watch the train go round. Is a 4cm clearance sufficient and does the 3% gradient 'rule' apply to N gauge?

[b308]

I've operated several 009 and H0e layouts that shunt! TBH though the "standard" Bemo style coupling is not ideal for that purpose though it can be modified. You're better off with a Greenwich coupling which is designed to work as a magnetic coupling, though does still couple to the Bemo/Peco/Bachmann ones.

https://www.gdngrs.com/couplings/

https://009adventure.blog/2019/03/08/un ... g-magnets/

[Mountain]

I've been experimenting with the Peco 009 couplings and N gauge couplings with very little success. I think a shunting layout will be extremely frustrating in N or 009! So I've decided to build an inverted fig 8 loop and just watch the train go round. Is a 4cm clearance sufficient and does the 3% gradient 'rule' apply to N gauge?

3% rule... I would imagine it does apply to N gauge. Narrow gauge in 009 or H0e do have tall bodies compared to N so this needs to be considered but also most narrow gauge trains on most peoples layouts tend to be short and generally NG locos have slightly more weight per track size of N if that makes sense.
I have always done my own experimenting with gradient to be honest, as I will put the type of train length I wanted the lightest least powerful loco to pull, and vary the gradient to see how steep I could get away with and use that as a guide.

[Mountain]

I've operated several 009 and H0e layouts that shunt! TBH though the "standard" Bemo style coupling is not ideal for that purpose though it can be modified. You're better off with a Greenwich coupling which is designed to work as a magnetic coupling, though does still couple to the Bemo/Peco/Bachmann ones.

https://www.gdngrs.com/couplings/

https://009adventure.blog/2019/03/08/un ... g-magnets/

Generally slow speed control using track power with 009 or H0e is not that great (And I had some expensive H0e locos with impressive mechanisms back then) which is one of the reasons why I opted for 0-16.5 instead. (The other was due to my limited budget at the time).
Another aspect of using larger scales is that hand operated couplings are more practical, where in smaller scales hand operating is not so practical.
But I have noticed on another site that there are 009 modellers using radio control which really improves slow speed control, though it must be quite a squeeze to do that!

[kebang]

Thanks for the replies!
My age/eyesight are precluding me from the coupling mods suggested .
I really should have gone for 0-16.5 as favored by Mountain.
Thanks again for the help. I will continue to derive pleasure from my inverted fig 8.
(Recently arrived from UK - an 009 kit from 'Narrow Minded Railworks' An excellent kit that consists of three pieces and sits on a Kato 109 chassis.
(https://narrowmindedrailworks.com/colle ... 4619957051)
When I've painted it will submit pics.