GWR 12t Plywood Vans

[Richard08]

Today plunder arrived from MMP, originally this was going to be 4 x ply vans, but after discussion turned into 2 x ply vans + 2 x GWR banana vans instead. I'm happy about this a 4 x the same wagon was perhaps a bit OTT. By far and away the biggest ABS boxes seen to date...

Anyhow, this tread is about the ply vans. I'll be building these as per late BR condition as some at least seem to have survived to the end of the wagon-load network, there's departmental options too. My layout is currently van-less. Still get that 'thing' about beautifully cast white metal.

[Richard08]

Another surprise... much higher brass to white metal ratio than previous 43two1 kits I've done.

. The parts were packed in bits of the Radio Times... June 1996! This wagon can legally drink...

[Bigmet]

... This wagon can legally drink...

Some of mine are entitled to draw the UK old age pension...

Those kit parts look good, I trust they will build as well as the various items from his 4mm range that I have running on the layout. Mention of Adrian Swain always brings happy memories. I had no idea when I first purchased some kits from him at a show, that it would emerge that my Pa had known Adrian from his aerospace employment at BAC Filton, and rated him the best engineering designer he ever encountered in his UK career.

[Richard08]

The first step is to fold up the body shell - it's a bit of an odd floor, but who's ever going to see it. The depth of the sides meant that the Hold And Fold wasn't going to help here, so out with ye olde low tec bending bars.

These are some sort of brass alloy with 'sharp' outer angles. They work ok, but you cannot bend just past 90' so the angle always relaxes. Better than nothing, but long thin folds (n/a to this kit) are difficult to apply bending pressure too without the part slipping (masking tape sometimes helps). To finish the folds it was back to two steel rules. The risk with the rules is that as the etched fold lines are relatively wide it's all to easy to get the fold at 'the top' one end and at 'the bottom' and introduce a twist - not much, but enough to make the wagon not quite square. With all done the body shell fits the ends perfectly. There's quite large flanges on the end castings that the sides attach to so gluing is an easy option - but I decided to solder (practice makes less imperfect). So far so good...

[End2end]

I was at an exhibition yesterday and took this photo specifically with you in mind Richard as I thought you might like to see them.
They are wooden O gauge rolling stock with stunning workmanship.
The chap said I could pick one up to look at if I wanted to.
"I wouldn't dare" was my reply. Not with my butterfingers.

Thanks
End2end

[Richard08]

I was at an exhibition yesterday and took this photo specifically with you in mind Richard as I thought you might like to see them.
They are wooden O gauge rolling stock with stunning workmanship.
The chap said I could pick one up to look at if I wanted to.
"I wouldn't dare" was my reply. Not with my butterfingers.
DSCF3242.JPG
Thanks
End2end

Nice things! I've seen wooden "kits" like this for sale on eBay, always built and heavily damaged though. All I've found out, not exactly trying too hard, is that wood was a lot more common for kits that I'd supposed. Might be fun if I come across one un-built.

[Richard08]

Well this has been a puzzler and no mistake, Guvner. Quite how the diagonals go together is not quite explained in the instructions, mainly should there be a gap between the 'ply' and the diagonals, which is hinted at in photos. Also, the four lower halves have some half-etch triangles which don't appear in the instruction drawing, or in photos - but nothing to represent the fillet that seems to go on the right hand side between the lower diagonal and the stanchion. Well, after a ridiculous amount of time trying every possibility it looks like it has to go together with the gap - so unless a blinding revelation manifests itself that's the plan.

[Richard08]

Well there's no bits left over, so ....

The short stanchion on the right I got right by accident - it's for the handbrake.

[Richard08]

And so to the doors. I have to say I much prefer the way this goes together than the Mink I did a while back with it's cast sides. The instructions cover a lot of different kits (no probs) and there's some revisions. The doors being one of them. I think I have to chop the top fold off the door and cut down the 'new' casting to fit in between the stanchions and under the roof line (going by photos). OK, but some more staring before doing it just in case. There's also the slots next to the door aperture and possible fold lines, can't find any mention of what they are for, if anything. It's kind of fun trying to work it out (until I break something....).

[Dad-1]

Hi Richard08,

Just looking at all that bending, something I could never get accurate
enough, proves I was sensible in keeping to Parkside plastic kits.

Geoff T.

[Richard08]

Hi Richard08,

Just looking at all that bending, something I could never get accurate
enough, proves I was sensible in keeping to Parkside plastic kits.

Geoff T.

There's actually no bending there, the assembly of the ribs is a half-etch plate with rivet detail that has slots that match the stick-out bit and the slots in the body. As long as the half-etches don't get bent soldering the tabs inside the body holds it all together without needing any more soldering. It's very neat.

[Richard08]

Note in instructions : The doors are shown upside down on the sketch, fit the top at the bottom.
Me : "Remember, remember, upside down, upside down" rinse and repeat
Also me : Chops wrong end off. Sigh.
A least I found out how to make small slots in brass. Not very well though.

With that all sorted I noticed the bottoms of the doors have fillets at the four corners in the photos. The sketch doesn't show any and I'm reasonably certain there's nothing still in the etch. Maybe such things weren't original? I think I'll have a stab at making some with either very thin plasticard or printer paper. Also the one under the right hand diagonal where it meets the upright, not too clear in the photo. Photo credit to SVR Wiki.

[Richard08]

I decided the doors things were best left as per the kit in the end, and so is done. The blunder holes will be filled later. Now for side two.

[Richard08]

Subsequent picture searching has revealed, it appears, two different styles of doors - maybe different diagrams? - so as per kit is ok which is nice. While waiting for wheels to arrive I prepared all the running gear and sole bars. Usually this generates a pile of bits that can be arranged in some sort of order for assembly, but this time the whole lot basically click-fitted into place. If I can get the non-compensated wheels in without having to remove the sole bars, which is a bit touch and go without trying for real, then basically all I need to do is check and solder everything without it all falling apart if I sneeze. The compensation is just a rocking plate with one axle mounted on it - simple and effective, but will need a bit of a spacer as it's a inclined to jam on the pivot slots.

[Richard08]

No wheels yet, but the couplings arrived via teleportation or something they got here that quick - nicely done Peter's Spares. Being XP vans, screw couplings are required, and screw couplings are expensive and some are, er, not that great. Cue Dapol of all people to the rescue... working, nicely made and sensibly priced. After trying all sorts, these will be my defacto standard from now. I've ordered 'proper' spring buffers too, but they make take a while as that's the way it is.