Old timer trying DCC ???

[Oletimer]

I am trying DCC for the first time, may be not a sensible thing to do 75, thought I'd give a look see.
Looking at the options available is frightening.
Trying to sort the mess out, 'I have bought a NCE Power Cab, (I later found that parts where missing, so they will have be replaced)
I is there an online copy of the Instruction Manual that I can download.
I can't be alone in trying Dcc for the first time, do you have any suggestions of help, or advice please.
Cheers
George

[Roger (RJ)]

The manual is available as a PDF from NEC
https://ncedcc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/art ... Manual.pdf

This is the manual for the latest update of the Powercab. You may not have the latest updated firmware in your Powercab. Manuals are also available for earlier versions.

[Dad-1]

DCC for Old Timers ?
I didn't even start serious railway modelling until I was 65, but having joined a club
Milton Keynes I was shown the advantages of DCC before I bought any control equipment.
A problem can arise for someone who has been in model railways and has loads of old
locomotives. Anything can be converted, but in many cases not particularly practical.
An example of non-practical would be something like the Airfix 14XX, but most can be.

Remember to only address a decoder with one loco on the tracks. I bet most of us have at
one time, or another, had another differently addressed loco we'd sort of missed and ended
up addressing that as well as the 'New' one onto the same address !!

Adding decoders to modern DCC ready locos is usually very straight forward, just follow the
instructions. Older loco can present many variations in difficulty finding adequate space.
What you do need is the ability to solder very fine wires as you attach the decoder between
rail pick-ups and the motor.

Best to just ask specific questions as you reach any unknowns that confuse you.

p.s. An old time the wrong side of 80.
Geoff T.

[End2end]

I think Dad-1's covered all the initial information so it's a ..
Welcome to the forum Oletimer, from me.
Thanks
End2end

[centenary]

I am trying DCC for the first time, may be not a sensible thing to do 75, thought I'd give a look see.
Looking at the options available is frightening.
Trying to sort the mess out, 'I have bought a NCE Power Cab, (I later found that parts where missing, so they will have be replaced)
I is there an online copy of the Instruction Manual that I can download.
I can't be alone in trying Dcc for the first time, do you have any suggestions of help, or advice please.
Cheers
George

There's very few parts with the NCE Powercab ie handheld controller, power supply, face plate connection and cord. If you bought an older Powercab, it may not have the latest software version on it but that shouldnt really cause problems.

If you have a DC layout, you can run locos on DCC by installing a DCC powerbus and retain control of your points \ signals via DC. This will save the expense of chucking out all your DC powered items.

If you are starting from scratch, everything can be powered by the DCC powerbus. It's recommended every piece of track is connected to the powerbus so there are no deadspots or drop outs.

If you have a large garage \ loft layout, say 5m x 3m or larger, the NCE power supply might struggle to power more than 2 or 3 locos on it. You can either buy an NCE power booster or one from someone like DCC Concepts.

Locos will need a DCC chip fitted. If your locos are DCC ready, this will be an easy task, just make sure you check which locos need an 8 or 21 pin chip before you buy.

DCC sound chips are generally over £100 and need a speaker, usually supplied as one. DCC chips just to power a loco are around £20 for a reliable make.

Each loco's chip will need to programmed with a specific number. This can be any 2 digit address except 03 which every chip comes programmed as or, any 4 digit address and is very easy to do.

As with anything, you can add complexity to a DCC layout the same as you can with a DC one.

Hope this helps!

[RAF96]

I also started in my mid 60s, with a boxed set, which was quickly converted to DCC. I am 78 now and still learning the odd new thing.

[Oletimer]

Firstly, thank you for allowing me to join the forum.

As you can expect, I have a lot to learn.
I have started the ball rolling nicely by buying a NCE Power Cab, which don't yet. Ho um.

What I need is a basic set to get going, but I haven't seen any in the UK - maybe need to look harder, they must be available.

Any hints or tips to further my search would be gratefully received.

Cheers, George.

[Oletimer]

Centenary:

Thank you for your time to explain your views and to clarify the foggy blanket that new technology brings me out in a cold sweat.

I shall have to take it nice and easy, and make certain to double check everything I do.

I look forward to learning from this fantastic hobby.

Thank you for your time.

Cheers, George.

[centenary]

Firstly, thank you for allowing me to join the forum.

As you can expect, I have a lot to learn.
I have started the ball rolling nicely by buying a NCE Power Cab, which don't yet. Ho um.

What I need is a basic set to get going, but I haven't seen any in the UK - maybe need to look harder, they must be available.

Any hints or tips to further my search would be gratefully received.

Cheers, George.

The NCE Powercab is a good starter system that can change points or other accessories. However and imho, controlling trains and trying to switch points at the same time via the hand held controller isnt the easiest thing to do.

I prefer to control the locos via the handset and points via a mimic panel and switches. That kind of makes buying a DCC control system that does everything a bit redundant, again imho.

There are other starter systems that just control the locos. I have the Gaugemaster Prodigy Express that does just that. To control points and signals, that can be done via traditional means if retaining part of a DC layout or, via expansion modules from someone like DCC Concepts or MegaPointsControllers, both UK companies.

[Bigmet]

...What I need is a basic set to get going, but I haven't seen any in the UK - maybe need to look harder, they must be available...

Is the implication here that you have either or both of no track or locos to try out DCC?

There are complete sets, but most will probably be compromised with content you do not require. Take a look in a few retailers, find those most local to you here: https://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/modelshops

Take advice from the retailers you find most approachable. You may well do best to buy a set of track pieces and a loco or two as separate pieces to get started.

[captrees]

Greetings Old Timer. I feel your anxiety with DCC, and will watch this thread with interest. I am planning an expansion, but have a mental block with the technology of DCC. However the expansion is not warranted unless I can run two trains on the same track.

My layout, as it is, is essentially finished, and I don't belong to any organisations for assistance with this. I rely on this forum for tips.

[SRman]

Hi George/oletimer.

The NCE is a good starter system and is actually fairly helpful with its interface for programming the basics on any locomotive.

You don't say where your preferences lie for trains, though. Some of the Continental manufacturers have good digital start sets, with Piko coming to mind easily here. I'm sure there must be some American sets like this too, but if you are interested in British or Australian trains, you may have to cobble individual components together yourself to make a coherent set.

I went DCC many years ago, and there is a learning curve involved, but persevere with it. Not only is it superior for train control, it will also keep your grey matter active with learning new things and a little problem solving (the latter also applies to plain DC though). I agree with advice above to use a mimic panel and DC (or AC) for point motors and the like, as they are an unnecessary complication when you are starting off. If the wiring is there, it won't be difficult to change them to DCC control later if that's your bent.

The NCE allows long addresses from 0 to 9999, but it will probably be wise to avoid using long addresses below 128, to prevent confusion with short addresses - a long address below 128 can be selected on the Power Cab by adding a preceding "0", thus address 78 is a short one but 078 will be recognised as a long one.

Good luck with whatever layout you end up with, and enjoy. Remember it's a hobby, and it is supposed to be fun.

[Bigmet]

... I am planning an expansion, but have a mental block with the technology of DCC...

Best not to think about it!
(Do you worry how your tv sorts out the channel you want to watch, or how your mobile phone maintains connection, hopping between antennae while driving along?) Of course not, you just push the buttons and the magic happens.
DCC is the same, (there's power on the track whenever the DCC system is on, with a control signal embedded in it, and every loco has a decoder which runs the motor - and more if required - in response to signals addressed to it) you just push the right buttons* on the control interface and the magic happens.
*further options available, sliders, knobs, levers, joysticks, touch screens, etc.

... However the expansion is not warranted unless I can run two trains on the same track...

DCC will allow you to independently control many locos with different decoder addresses on the same length of track, up to the limit of how many will fit on the line, and your personal button pushing speed.

Is that any help? It does take the small effort of becoming so familiar with using the chosen interface that you become 'unconciously competent' , as in no longer requiring real mental effort to do what is intended, you just 'push the buttons'.

[End2end]

I am planning an expansion, but have a mental block with the technology of DCC.

The only thing I had to make sure of was isolating rail joiners on my set track insulfrog points.
I would have used electrofrog points but as a beginner I was trying to keep it as simple as possible.
My older 0-4-0's struggle on the insulfrog points.

Apart from that and making sure each piece of track is connected to the DCC bus it's really quite easy.

I haven't got into setting up any advanced DCC options. I select which loco I want to control, press a button the lights come on, turn the knob and the loco moves. Nice and simple.
Thanks
End2end

[Richard08]

As others have noted - don't worry about the technology. It's simply two wires to the layout, just as with DC really but without any section switches. Points only get interesting if you are using live 'frog's, but even any that misbehave (wheel backs touch point blades) are pretty easily fixed - I only had hassle with one out eight sets. As the good book says - 'Don't Panic', the Quick Set Up guide is all you need to get going. And a length of track for programming.