N Gauge Loco's

[AliG]

Hi. New to the forum. Help required.
What is the secret to getting loco's to run slowly? I have a simple N gauge layout using DC power supply. I am trying to get slow running, typically, shunting and have gone through all the obvious of track cleaning etc. I have to apply more power/speed than needed especially when going over points. The loco's are relatively new with about half hour running in. Is there something I am missing here?

[Ironduke]

What models are you running?

DCC helps a lot.

[Byegad]

Depends on the make of track. I'm running old Farish 0-6-0T locos over Kato points on DC and they will perform shunting moves at slow speed.

[Bigmet]

To add to which, the motors are small, with very limited power output: the mechanism needs to run as freely as the design allows for best performance. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for lubrication, and be prepared to run the model for several hours if required. Reversing direction regularly and turning the loco around on track so it runs round curves equally left hand and right hand ensures that the mechanism is fully 'worked up' for all the movements the mechanism has to make to accommodate curves.

Current pick up is crucial for good slow running, I would check that all wheels supposed to collect current actually do so reliably as a first step.
Seconded on DCC, the permanent full voltage on track is a major advantage over DC, and redoubled by the tuneable control a good decoder provides.
All live crossing points on the layout too, you really want the rails live everywhere.

[AliG]

Hi guys. Many thanks for your comments. Will follow up on these, especially on running in.
The loco's are all Bachmann/Graham Farish running on Peco set track.

[Peterm]

Hi guys. Many thanks for your comments. Will follow up on these, especially on running in.
The loco's are all Bachmann/Graham Farish running on Peco set track.

Which is half the problem. N guage needs all the help it can get. On set track you have dead frog points and more rail joiners than if you used Peco flexible track and live frog points. I don't know how many loco's you have or what your budget is, but I'll make suggestions and leave it up to you.

A Zimo decoder and a stay alive unit can be used on DC controlled track. There are the tiny Zimo's and equally small stay alives: I use Lais stay alives which are available in two packages, flat and square(ish). I also use Zimo decoders exclusively as they give such a wide range of adjustments and super smooth starts and stops. You could also use a bus wire around you track to eliminate the problems of voltage drop partly due to rail joiners resistance. If you decide later that you want to go DCC (I'd recommend it if possible) then all you have to do is switch off DC running on the decoders and you're there. The bullet proof system that I use is a Lenz LZV 100 command station which I've had since 2005 with no trouble and a LH101 handset, but there are plenty of others.

Hopefully I've helped rather than confused and dismayed you.

[AliG]

Thanks Pete. Will have a look at these items. Definitely get to work with on the bus wire.

[abenn]

I moved over from 00-guage DC to N-guage DCC a couple of years ago. I was amazed at the improvement in running quality achieved by DCC -- my N-guage 0-6-0 tank especially demonstated the difference when compared with my 00 one. Both my layouts had a power buss supplying each individual length of track.

So in my view good track feeds can only go part way to smooth slow speed running, with DCC being the icing on the cake.

[AliG]

Hi Guys. Have made some improvement by lubrication and more running in. Also making all the track joints soldered. I had used flexitrack for all the straight sections, so didn't have many joints to contend with. Will certainly consider converting to DCC.
Many thanks for all your advice.

[Mike Parkes]

DCC will not improve a loco that runs poorly on DC - it will give better control of one that runs well on DC as start and top speeds can be trimmed. Older non DCC ready Farish locos are more involved in the work needed to DCC and you are looking at around the twice the cost as a special adaption part (a Digi-hat) has to be used to replace a chassis fitting and a very small, more expensive than normal, decoder used. In such a case it might be worth considering replacing the loco with a new DCC ready one; the saving in the cost of the decoder plus whatever you get for the old loco going a fair way to cover the cost of the new far better detailed model.

[AliG]

Hi Mike. Thanks for your views on DCC. Can definitely see where you are coming from especially the size and fitting probs. Think I will persevere with DC at the moment.
Cheers Alan