Bridge Suggestions
- Dwarfboysim
- Posts: 231
- Joined: Sat Jan 30, 2010 7:01 am
- Location: Victoria, Australia
- Contact:
Bridge Suggestions
Hi all,
About a year ago I created bridge arches for the bridge on my layout from Balsa Wood. I then printed a brick pattern onto Photo Glossy paper using an InkJet printer. This was then cut to the correct shape and glued to the balsa wood with PVA glue. The balsa wood arches with the paper attached were then glued with PVA glue to the bridge itself. Whilst all the bridge arches themselves have remained fastened to the bridge itself, you can see from the attached photos that the brickwork has faded/washed out. Even parts that were not in sunlight. Any suggestions on how I can redo the bridge and not have the brickwork go the same way?
See attched pictures for what has happened
Thanks,
Dwarfboysim
MOD Note: Images rotated.
About a year ago I created bridge arches for the bridge on my layout from Balsa Wood. I then printed a brick pattern onto Photo Glossy paper using an InkJet printer. This was then cut to the correct shape and glued to the balsa wood with PVA glue. The balsa wood arches with the paper attached were then glued with PVA glue to the bridge itself. Whilst all the bridge arches themselves have remained fastened to the bridge itself, you can see from the attached photos that the brickwork has faded/washed out. Even parts that were not in sunlight. Any suggestions on how I can redo the bridge and not have the brickwork go the same way?
See attched pictures for what has happened
Thanks,
Dwarfboysim
MOD Note: Images rotated.
- Ironduke
- Posts: 1234
- Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2005 12:04 am
- Location: Ballarat Victoria Australia
- Contact:
Re: Bridge Suggestions
I printed plenty of brick and other textures on paper using an ink jet and I can't say I've ever had this happen to me. Plenty of photos too for that matter. Did you say you used glossy photo paper?
I have had trouble with the ink running if I used runny PVA glue to stick it to the surface. Glue stick (Uhu) works better because it doesnt soak through the paper.
I have had trouble with the ink running if I used runny PVA glue to stick it to the surface. Glue stick (Uhu) works better because it doesnt soak through the paper.
Regards
Rob
Rob
- Dwarfboysim
- Posts: 231
- Joined: Sat Jan 30, 2010 7:01 am
- Location: Victoria, Australia
- Contact:
Re: Bridge Suggestions
Thanks Rob I will give that a try
Re: Bridge Suggestions
Embossed plastic card either stone or brick painted in colours of your choice would work.
Re: Bridge Suggestions
My first choice would be embossed plasticard, I use slaters, its very thin and easy to work with.
If you want to stay with paper it might be better to buy preprinted.
Dave
If you want to stay with paper it might be better to buy preprinted.
Dave
- Bufferstop
- Posts: 13821
- Joined: Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:06 pm
- Location: Bottom end of N. Warks line
Re: Bridge Suggestions
Ah you too were trained to look at sample prints the wrong way up so as to judge the quality not the subject I'll make two comments, when it comes to fading red is a pig doesn't matter whether it's paint on cars or the lounge curtains if anything is going to fade it'll be the red. The other thing is I note your location, my guess is the Aussie sunshine not even direct is an order of magnitude stronger than the thin wishy washy stuff we get here in the UK. I don't bother with photo quality paper and card, it still fades if not kept under glass or in an album. I use satin matt (semi gloss) good quality business paper and tweak the printer settings until the initial print is if anything over coloured. It fades a bit in the first couple of months then stays more or less the same for,,,,,,,,,,,, well 13 years so far and counting.
Growing old, can't avoid it. Growing up, forget it!
My Layout, My Workbench Blog and My Opinions
My Layout, My Workbench Blog and My Opinions
Re: Bridge Suggestions
I have used varnish on the red brick work of some terraced houses that I made the same way using a printer. It was a Cabot's matt varnish I bought in Mitre 10 for something else. It seems to work fine. There's a slight shine left when it dries, but not unrealistic.
Rather than have this happen again I am using Metcalfe red brick sheets.
Rather than have this happen again I am using Metcalfe red brick sheets.
-
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2021 1:13 pm
- Contact:
Re: Bridge Suggestions
Ironduke has a really good suggestion here. I admit that this might look tough, but I believe you're in good hands. I'm having fun with my 3D printer doing most of the work. I can't complain at all. I'm very happy with it and maybe you could also have a look at this technology to avoid these situations, unless you don't mind them
-
- Posts: 310
- Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2006 5:34 am
Re: Bridge Suggestions
No, photos comes out upside down here as a matter of course!!Bufferstop wrote:Ah you too were trained to look at sample prints the wrong way up so as to judge the quality not the subject I'll make two comments, when it comes to fading red is a pig doesn't matter whether it's paint on cars or the lounge curtains if anything is going to fade it'll be the red. The other thing is I note your location, my guess is the Aussie sunshine not even direct is an order of magnitude stronger than the thin wishy washy stuff we get here in the UK. I don't bother with photo quality paper and card, it still fades if not kept under glass or in an album. I use satin matt (semi gloss) good quality business paper and tweak the printer settings until the initial print is if anything over coloured. It fades a bit in the first couple of months then stays more or less the same for,,,,,,,,,,,, well 13 years so far and counting.
Something else to consider is the inks used in your 3D printer. While those provided by printer manufacturers are more expensive, they are usually guaranteed to be fade resistant. If you buy the cheap 'knock-offs' you'll find that they vary considerably.
You are quite correct that the Aussi sunshine is an order of magnitude stronger, as is the UV. It plays havoc on plastics and building paints outside and I'm fairly convinced that coupled with varying humidity levels that it does have an impact on plastics distorting, even when well away from direct sunlight.
Re: Bridge Suggestions
Going off topic for a moment but why have you put girders on top of brick arches? I'm sure there may be a prototype for such a set up but I'm damned if I can think of one, normally they'd just have a brick parapet.
-
- Posts: 310
- Joined: Thu Mar 09, 2006 5:34 am
Re: Bridge Suggestions
I agree with this.b308 wrote:Going off topic for a moment but why have you put girders on top of brick arches? I'm sure there may be a prototype for such a set up but I'm damned if I can think of one, normally they'd just have a brick parapet.
Girders are used for structural reasons. Since the brickwork in the OP picture already provides the structural components, there is no need for the girders and only brick parapets would be provided.
Sometimes, you see bridges the other way around where girders (I beams) provide the main structure and brick parapets are constructed on top.
Re: Bridge Suggestions
It's up to the builder but if he wants a girder in there I'd take out one of the arches and replace it with a girder, stick a canal or river under it as justification!
- Bufferstop
- Posts: 13821
- Joined: Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:06 pm
- Location: Bottom end of N. Warks line
Re: Bridge Suggestions
No I can't think of anywhere with girders atop brick arches, brick pillars yes. The annoying behaviour that puts pictures upside down or lying on their side is down to the metadata inserted by the phone or camera that took the picture. You can turn off the metadata somewhere on any device that puts it in. Opening a file with a paint program, to resize it usually looses the original metadata.
Growing old, can't avoid it. Growing up, forget it!
My Layout, My Workbench Blog and My Opinions
My Layout, My Workbench Blog and My Opinions
Re: Bridge Suggestions
As I see the problem(s) they are...
Using Photo paper - Use normal 80gsm or similar printer paper.
No sealant was used.. Once printing ink has dried spray with Ink Jet fixative or Artist matt varnish in a spray. Allow to fully dry.
Fix varnished sheets to structure with glue sticks, such as Pritt or similar.
Once dried, over spray with another coat of the matt varnish.
Try to keep printed papers out of direct sunlight long term, or if that is not possible, cover the area / item after use with light weight UV preventing material such as a card box or thick cloth etc
Some really good advice is available here for those wanting to model with printed paper on card etc....Click here for a link to guides
I have turned the two images. 99% of upside down images are caused by the image being taken on a Smart phone or Tablet that's been held around the wrong way in landscape view!
Using Photo paper - Use normal 80gsm or similar printer paper.
No sealant was used.. Once printing ink has dried spray with Ink Jet fixative or Artist matt varnish in a spray. Allow to fully dry.
Fix varnished sheets to structure with glue sticks, such as Pritt or similar.
Once dried, over spray with another coat of the matt varnish.
Try to keep printed papers out of direct sunlight long term, or if that is not possible, cover the area / item after use with light weight UV preventing material such as a card box or thick cloth etc
Some really good advice is available here for those wanting to model with printed paper on card etc....Click here for a link to guides
I have turned the two images. 99% of upside down images are caused by the image being taken on a Smart phone or Tablet that's been held around the wrong way in landscape view!
[ << Click the Icon to go to my website
Broken? It was working correctly when I left it.
Broken? It was working correctly when I left it.