Yet another newbie seeking advice

[mickky378]

Hi guys,
I have been reading some threads with great intrest.
I am returning to the hobby after a gap of around 20 years and am now confronted with dcc , and 00 gauge which is now my preferred path.
I am going to be building my layout in my garage and it has an overall dimension of 9ft by 12ft.
each leg is going to be 3 ft wide so leaving a nice area in the middle, I am nearly 70 and want freedom of movement.
Firstly, what are the major differences between hornby and peco points and is there any downside to using insulfrog points as I hope to put droppers wherever I can.
Thanks for looking.

[Mountain]

No real downside to using insulfrog points. The only small disadvantage is that if one is running a train at a crawl over them there is a possibility that the loco may stall, but I didn't really find it too much of an issue as I'd automatically give the trains a little more speed just to clear them when going through a station throat containing a mass of insulfrog pointwork.
These days the difference between Peco settrack and modern Hornby points is actually very little at all. While my first choice would be Peco, if no Peco was available I certainly wouldn't hesitate to buy Hornby if I had plans to continue with 00. (These days I tend to make my own points in 0-16.5 where they are by far easier to make in electrofrog form so I use electrofrog...).
Electrofrog points dont suffer with the stalling effect which can happen on rare occasions with an insulfrog point when a train is passing at a crawl over it, but electrofrog points need a seperate frog switching mechanism (Electrically speaking) where insulfrog points are ready to use as they are.

[mickky378]

Thank you, I think that has helped me with my choice.

[Bufferstop]

Hornby only makes settrack, insulfrog points in code 100. Peco do the same points, they also do Streamline track, which is available as wooden sleepers, steel and concrete types in code 100, and flat bottom and bullhead rails in code 75, with electro and insulfrog points in three different radii.

[Emettman]

Hi guys,
s there any downside to using insulfrog points as I hope to put droppers wherever I can.
Thanks for looking.

Hello Mickky,

The place where electrofrog points are going to be the most useful is for goods and locos sidings where there will be slow running.
Building in a switch for the point frog polarity is considered near vital if running DCC, but it's not so important if running DC.

I'm not quite sure on the intended board shape for your layout. Are you describing a U, or are you taking the track all around the garage?

Chris

[Admin4]

I would suggest getting a electrofrog point to play with, learn how they need to be wired up etc & if your OK with them use them for all points on your layout

Cost wise they are the same and give much better running at slow speeds, it’s better to put them in from the start rather then change your mind later on.

By getting one to play with you will know if they are for you or not

[b308]

If your layout is in the garage there are a couple of points you should be aware of. Firstly if it's going to share the space with the car be aware that if the car is put in there wet it will adversely affect the layout over time. Second is that most garages are cold and can be damp so you could have problems there.

[Bufferstop]

It's not good for a car to be put away wet, better to leave it outside for the wind and sun to dry it naturally, unless you are a masochist and prepared to leather it dry

[NickH]

If you're thinking of having 3' wide boards against the walls, check that you will be able to reach to the back. You might be able to, just, with bare boards, but once you try actually working on things, or after the scenery is in place, things may be a little harder. And don't forget that in the corners, the furthest reach is over 4', and even Twizzle would have difficulty reaching that far!

[glencairn]

It's not good for a car to be put away wet, better to leave it outside for the wind and sun to dry it naturally, unless you are a masochist and prepared to leather it dry

Further more putting a car in the garage/railway room interferes with the running of trains.

Glencairn

[mickky378]

Hi Emettman, sorry for the delay but my layout will be a full oval type, maybe with a lift up section to allow access to the centre operating area.

[fourtytwo]

Hi mickky, I can definitely recommend the lifting flap having finally fitted one to my oval layout after about 5 years of scrabbling on my knees! You tend to think once your in the middle there you will stay but duty calls (wife, tea, phone, knocks on the door & loo) mean constant tooing & froing!
I also agree with the poster re 3ft wide baseboards, ok so you kneel on a stool but you need a hand down for support, ok on blank empty baseboards but a bit of a problem when covered in scenery & tracks! Also in a square room your railway will cross the corners so use that space to provide popups for you to access from the rear.
Baseboard height is another day 1 critical that cannot be changed as also is the matter of sound deadening that I got completely wrong through the use of 6mm ply and hard granite ballast but hey I got used to it