2ft x 6ft in 0n30 (That's 7mm narrow gauge to us in the UK)

[Mountain]

Take a look what can be done in a small space. Enjoy!

https://youtu.be/l45hpcCTrEw

[Builder]

I really like 0n30, it seems to have more scope than the usual 0-16-5 . I mostly see Welsh narrow gauge and an odd cornish tin mine. which is fine, but i feel the American `scene` has so much more scope, especially scenically, but also the diversity of use, whether timber,mining,etc.
It is a bit pricey to go with Bachmann with the sound etc, but can be also a cheap way in to O gauge using HO -OO stock and loco`s,rebodied to suit the era,and with most of the rest being `scratch` built to as good as your imagination allow`s, and ability of course.
I really will be having a go at this in the very near future, but i would like to sort out a personal `hate` which is the noise transfer to the baseboard, certainly not want that with a sound effects chip !

[Bufferstop]

If you want to eliminate running noise being amplified by the baseboard lay your track on a bed made from 3mm ply stuck to the surface of a block of solid insulation "Kingspan" or similar, at least 50mm thick, It will mean digging pits for point motors but it's about as quiet as you will get it. It's exceedingly light and you can sculpt it to have areas lower than the track level. If you need blocks of it joined together glue 12mm ply ends to it to use alignment dowels between boards. You can't easiley use bolts to fasten the sections together but you can fasten the halves of a hinge to the faces with the pin (removable, one pair at each end of the two boards.

[Mountain]

Depends also on what type of board one uses on a layout.
My current board is MDF, which though any cutting or chiseling etc needs to be done outside, as MDF fibres are similar to aspestos, once it is cut and shaped, it is not as noisy as plywood. The thinner the wood, the noisier it tends to be, especially noticeable with plywood. Having said that, ply is a good strong board to use.
The quietest surface that I have ever used to run trains on is concrete. I was amazed how quiet trains ran on 00 gauge track nailed to hardwood wedges embedded into a concrete base were. You could hardly hear the motors, but the wheels of coaches and wagons did give lovely clickedy click sounds over joins. It almost made me consider using concrete indoors!
I've never used a foam balast underlay as I find they look odd, and not used cork sheets either as they are rather expensive for what you get. Fortunately, a good product is back on the market, and this is a thin polystyrene roll used to put between wallpapers and walls. It used to be popular right up to the 1970's to keep heat in a house, but due to the fire risk I guess they stopped making it.
The only issue is, today's fire retardent chemicals used in various products like mattresses, pillows, blankets expanding foam for insulation, polystyrene sheets etc, are not healthy to be used in the home environment. Having said that, if you want a cheap sound deadening material, these thin rolls have returned to the market and a roll should contain more then enough to use on a layout at a reasonable price.

[Emettman]

So that's down to 10 to 11 inch radius at the ends, and on a decided gradient too.
Rigid 0-4-0 chassis can easily be in trouble on that, lifting one wheel

This is where the Dapol/Hornby Pug chassis was so good: the front axle has appreciable vertical pivot play.
This is also why it can be happy crawling through dead-frog points that give trouble to longer wheelbase (but rigid) locos.

A very nice layout, built for exhibition / display.
That's another major factor in layout design to allow for!

Chris

[Mountain]

So that's down to 10 to 11 inch radius at the ends, and on a decided gradient too.
Rigid 0-4-0 chassis can easily be in trouble on that, lifting one wheel

This is where the Dapol/Hornby Pug chassis was so good: the front axle has appreciable vertical pivot play.
This is also why it can be happy crawling through dead-frog points that give trouble to longer wheelbase (but rigid) locos.

A very nice layout, built for exhibition / display.
That's another major factor in layout design to allow for!

Chris

Take a look at the 5th layout in this clip. It starts at 02.07 onwards and is based on the Himalayan Mountain Railway in India. Rarely have I ever seen a model train do what this one does!

https://youtu.be/_ZarRgcdNHw

[Builder]

Thanks for the advice and replies Gents. I like Bufferstop`s idea as it can be easier to put in a bit of gentle undulation.Not going to be huge area, something like 3ft X 4 or 5ft max. So would you cut a strip of 3mm ply for the track to run on or a full sheet? I even wonder if a ply base on the underside would help strengthen it ?
I will go and look at wilkes and B&Q for ideas and see what is available.

[Mountain]

Builder. Take a look at this. I think you will like this.


https://youtu.be/E0Ri269mopU

[Bufferstop]

I even wonder if a ply base on the underside would help strengthen it ?

A 100mm thick sheet of rigid insulation will need very little strengthening. Whilst our house was being remodelled I got to experiment with both offcuts and full sheets of the stuff. It's extremely light and absolutely rigid. It will break before it flexes, I was putting housebricks on the centre of 4x2 sheets supported at the corners and even two foot cantilevers could carry two or three bricks before snapping.
If I was building another portable layout, (unlikely now) I would base it on blocks of insulation, with thick ply ends and thin ply profile boards front and rear, as long as you don't need to climb over it, it will be strong enough.

[Emettman]

...If I was building another portable layout, (unlikely now) I would base it on blocks of insulation, with thick ply ends and thin ply profile boards front and rear, as long as you don't need to climb over it, it will be strong enough.

Absolutely agree. Urethane insulation board *with* its foil cover is remarkable stuff.

Chris

[Builder]

Thanks again. Mountain, that is a really great video, altho` i think somewhat ambitious for me, Space and cost among other reasons ! I will lokk into the base materials.

[Mountain]

A small layout is more achieveable. I get a little sidetracked of late. My layout has most of its track, but no scenery as yet. I thought making a small layout would be quick. Well. I do daydream a lot rather then build. And I didnt build by the easy method...

[Emettman]

My first three layouts never got near to completion: too ambitious and also poor (though developing) skills

My first finished layout was 4ft by 6", an oval with passing loop in OO9.
2" radius curves at the ends.
(I wasn't born to use conventional curves, it seems.)
It ran on a window-ledge in my hall of residence room, and was very popular.


Chris.

[Mountain]

My first three layouts never got near to completion: too ambitious and also poor (though developing) skills

My first finished layout was 4ft by 6", an oval with passing loop in OO9.
2" radius curves at the ends.
(I wasn't born to use conventional curves, it seems.)
It ran on a window-ledge in my hall of residence room, and was very popular.


Chris.

Two inch radius curves. That is taking it to the extremes!

[Emettman]

Two inch radius curves. That is taking it to the extremes!

Needs must when the devil drives.

It was aided by there being no shunting on the layout, just two trans alternating, so permanent bar couplings were fine.
I did quite a few things on my early layouts not knowing I shouldn't do them. Some actually worked and I picked up a taste for it.
You have to not mind, or at least live with, the casualty rate of interesting ideas not coming off.

Chris.