Llwyndrissi Halt.

[Mountain]

I just thought I'd add a couple of pictures to show that with a little patience one can make ones own track and to show I do occasionally make something!
I'm not the neatest workers so if I can do it, anyone can!
[Before you say anything, I'm taking a break from constructing the diamond crossing so that's why it is seen half made! Also the Peco sleepers I use for gauge purposes as I dont have any gauging tools.]

[Mountain]

I forgot to say. It is in 0-16.5 gauge. Here is an example of what will run on it.

[Ex-Pat]

Hats off to anybody who attempts track construction!

[Bufferstop]

Using pcb sleepers and solder I once did a circle of 009 with a single point, my finger tips were sore for weeks. The only crossing I tried was one with a straight crossing a curve in 00 and I never could get it right. Even longer ago I laid a lot of Peco TT track which came as rails, sleeper strips and a big bag of spikes, but somehow I don't think that counts.

[Mountain]

Wouldn't like to try it in 009. This getting tricky in 0-16.5.
Is a case that I could do with having three hands! Trying to solder short rails that like to move as I solder them... If I hold them with pliers the solder goes cold. Hence for my soldering being messy... I was almost trying to throw solder onto the rails! Going to need to think a bit for electrical isolation and bring out some playdough and resin to fill the isolating gaps... Finish building it first.
Ex Pat. It is actually easier then it looks. Hardest part is keeping making adjustments so things run OK, and working things out electrically, which is simple enough in theory but sometimes requires thought to make it practical.

[Mountain]

Also the Peco sleepers I use for gauge purposes as I dont have any gauging tools.

I borrowed a couple of gauges for my first attempt, then bought a couple, it certainly makes life easier, and the more accurate that you are the better running quality you will achieve.

I'd love to have such equipment but I dont have the funds at the moment. Recently I saw a wheel back to back gauge at a show for £6.50 and had to stop myself from buying it! I spent a lot on the show entry. Boy was it worth going in. So much to see! The Swansea Modellers Group certainly organised an impressive event this year.

[carnehan]

That is some very impressive work Mountain. I have total respect for anyone who can master the art of making track from scratch. I think I'm going to enjoy this build thread.

Paul

[Mountain]

Thanks. It is more of a beginners learning curve for me. Some mistakes corrected and rails repositioned a few times so soldering gets messy..
The diamond crossing I will solder the rails in and some dropper wires, and then I will do some cutting to isolate the rails which will, for a while spoil the nice look... Just for a while.
A tip... Anyone who wants to construct a near 90° crossing it is better to have the central section to be a single square of PCB as I'm adding bits as I need more support for the rails. I didnt know this when I started and I have learnt since!

[Mountain]

A tip... Anyone who wants to construct a near 90° crossing it is better to have the central section to be a single square of PCB as I'm adding bits as I need more support for the rails.

I cannot work out how you would isolate the rails if they were all soldered to a PCB square

Isolate by using one of these!
First the PCB base needs to be fixed down... Mine is in several parts so I will use superglue (Liquid type) dribbled around the PCB bases. This is just to ensure that if you cut too deep, all will stay in place.
Then cutting commences. I've not finished my checkrail parts of the crossing as yet and I want to solder dropper wires down holes ready before I will start cutting. I will need to draw a plan to explain how I'm going to isolate it... Will do soon.
After cuts are made I will use playdough and resin to fill the gaps and then carefully file out the flangeways again. I hope it makes sense. Will draw a cut plan and photograph it for here. I've not done this before so it is trial and error! I have done points but this is my first diamond crossing!

Anyone using a minidrill and a carbodium cutting disc... Always wear eye protection!

[Mountain]

Here is the cutting plan. Understandably the rails will, at first look a mess untill after the resin is in place and set, and worked on etc.

[Lee]

I just thought I'd add a couple of pictures to show that with a little patience one can make ones own track and to show I do occasionally make something!
I'm not the neatest workers so if I can do it, anyone can!
[Before you say anything, I'm taking a break from constructing the diamond crossing so that's why it is seen half made! Also the Peco sleepers I use for gauge purposes as I dont have any gauging tools.]

I take my hat of to this kind of modelling wow nice work so far

[Mountain]

Originally it was a case of changing the sleepers from 00 gauge track which I made from using wooden tea sturers and pinning in place (Was found I needed to drill holes first to avoid splitting the sleepers), but first I found the modern Hornby track pins domed tops to be too high for the inside of the track as wheel flanges were bottoming out. I remedied this by using older type Hornby track pins I had in two packets back from the days when Hornby made them in the UK. These had flat tops. The issue I had was the older pins were thinner so fell into the holes with no friction, so every sleeper was repositioned and drilled again... Then I found the rail height became an issue so as I'd used PCB sleepers to alter a pair of Peco 00 gauge points, I started to use these on the curves. I'd already ripped up one corner to extend the layout to a second board as 3½ft x 2ft was just too short for a passing loop that I wanted. In the end all my track has ended up with PCB sleepers cut from PCB board.
More recently thoughts have already headed towards a third future board possibility as I have just about enough wood collected to build one. I didnt want to branch a point from the sharp curve so the idea of a diamond crossing grew in my mind. While initially it is planned to be a nice feature to have a line that looks as if it goes further, I do have plans that it will come into use for the third board. I'm hoping to build it in such a way that I have operate the layout with two or three boards as a third board will be too long for setting up the layout in my bedroom. So once the diamond crossing and siding to it is built, I may concentrate on these two boards before the third is built.

[Mountain]

Well. Dropper wires are now soldered in and so are all the check rails. My soldering is a bit overdone, but at least everything is going to stay in place when it comes to the next task which is cutting the isolation gaps. It is a bit late to do this now as folks here are settling ready to get some sleep. The little cutting disc is not exactly quiet! Apart from that, it is better to work in better light when I have some daylight outside. That way it is easier to see what I'm doing.
I'm glad that a little waggon I have can pass trough it OK in all directions which is the main purpose of the crossing!
Hopefully tomorrow or fairly soon I'll be able to make those cuts and I hope I have enough resin left in the bottom of my resin tins to fill the gaps with. If not, I may have some car body filler somewhere or I can try DAS modelling clay, though I doubt DAS has the strength needed. There's always superglue to mix with something powdery like baking soda (May have some baking soda in the pantry). See how things go. Resin is my first choice. I can pour it into the desired locations and over do it, and I simply file the excess off and file open the flangeways. Is easy...Just about!

[luckymucklebackit]

That is some very impressive soldering work there. Really like what you have done.

JIm

[Dad-1]

I always fancied making some track with a long check rail curve.
Not done anything to need it, but great to see someone diving in
and making it.

Geoff T.