Lumsdonia R&D Dept Workbench

[Bufferstop]

Hi TS I've got a make it removable tip for you, it comes courtesy of Warley MRC. I was able to study it at leisure when they had one of their opendays. 15mm copper pipe is a sliding fit into the couplers used for joining it. Well practised plumbers don't buy the pre tinned ones, just copper sliding fit pieces of tube. Once set in the baseboard they will accept a piece of 15mm pipe as the base for a signal, and have room inside for a miniature connector if needed. They are sturdy enough for use with O and G scales, bit of overkill down at N, but there are similar combinations in smaller sizes. I've since found similar items in solvent weld plastic piping.

[TimberSurf]

So 4ft diameter! Hmmmmm.....
At over a pound a pop, I am not sure that fits my skin flint ethos! lol
I think that might be OTT for most things, but yes signals may need something more robust/larger thanthose I have been experimenting on.
I will take into consideration when I get round to doing signals (that are definitely on the agenda and will be either solenoid or servo driven) That would leave a lot of room , not for an electrical connector, but more likely a mechanical connector, so that signals can be removed (knocked over) without disassembling the solenoid/servo. (probably based on connecting magnets)

[TimberSurf]

Well I tried drilling 1.3mm holes up some telegraph poles and was surprised that I achieved it! They may not be very true, but by gluing a thick copper wire in, they can be bent to be straight when dropped in 1.5mm holes in the base board (yet to be tried) and will take a knock and be able to be re straightened.
I ordered two softbox's and having arrived today assembled one to try. Brilliant! Thanks go to DAVE (viewtopic.php?f=22&t=51959&p=637174&hil ... #p637174() for pointing out how cheap they are!
Currently working on a coach platform, of my own scratch build design, utilising plastic coffee stirrers! I will post the build on my main thread.

I noted from End2End viewtopic.php?f=49&t=51555&p=637494&hil ... rd#p637494 that cutting veroboard is a tad difficult and offered a solution, it's one my uncle taught me in my teens and kinda assume everyone knows. There are sparse companies making a commercial version, but mine can be made for peanuts. I made 2 tonight and will add handles tomorrow and share the technique for everyone's delight at the weekend.
(I cant find my original one from 30 years ago in my piles of tools )

[Atso]

Looks like you've been busy and well done for managing to drill out the telegraph poles! I look forward to seeing/reading you method for cutting veroboard soon!

[TimberSurf]

This is an old trick I learnt 30 years ago and still the cheapest and best way to cut plastics and paxolin PCB board (veroboard)
You will need access to a grinder though, a Dremel might do but will take ages!
First cut the blade in half, don’t attempt to bend it to do this! It needs to be done on a grindstone or with a hand grinder.
Any hacksaw blade will do, old or new. Grind a vee into the end as illustrated, tapering away toward the handle and near to right angles toward the tip (the exact angle is not important)
Round off the end and deburr. Do gentle grinding or file to do the final point, do not sharpen the thickness, the whole point is to make a sharp edge crosswise to the blade.
Do not use naked as built! Form a handle by any of the following:-
Wrap in insulation tape to a dozen turns up and down the length
Cover in several layers of heat shrink tube
Slit a piece of hose pipe and wrap over the top and cover with insulation tape or heat shrink
Glue pieces of wood to both sides with Araldite, shape to make comfortable
You can use pretty much anything, to widen the thin metal, as you need to press hard on the top in use.

Tip912 Hacksaw Scribe Blade & Handle.jpg (35.84 KiB) Viewed 4337 times

[End2end]

Oh dear. I have niether the tools nor the experience to make one of those.
Thanks for showing us though Timbersurf.
Thanks
End2end

[TimberSurf]

Maybe I should start a cottage industry!
For those without the skills or grinder They are available from Olfa ,P800 and P450

http://www.olfa.com/plastic-laminate-cu ... 90486.html

Tamiya also rebrand and sell it http://www.geedee-modelshop.com/prodlis ... goryID=662

[TimberSurf]

To be honest, probably one of the easiest methods of cutting veroboard (that does not strike an accord with electronics enthusiasts as it is not part of their normal bag of tools) is an xacto saw! Makes mincemeat of pcb's and leaves a nice edge.

[m.levin]

I just use a hacksaw or junior hacksaw.
Then tidy with a file.

[TimberSurf]

Finally got around to testing a theory and can now add to my tips list. It always concerned me that with a plan of over 20 trains running, I would never remember all the DCC addresses. A chart on the wall would be good, but would still need to be cross referenced against running numbers on similar engines. So the answer is the write the DCC address on top of the engine ! Invisibly of course
Marked with a good quality security marker pen, once dry, there is no sign of the writing in all light conditions, but simply shine a cheap UV torch and all is revealed

[TimberSurf]

Still working on the grass patch next to the platform, another idea was to have oil/fuel storage tanks next to the maintenance building. I had a ratio kit or two in stock, but wanted something not quite "out of the box", so started a bit of enhancement.
'Lumsdonia was a forward thinking company and at the forefront of some innovation,with a policy of save the environment, way before the PC crowd started remonstrating, so the PW dept installed the tanks with a bund wall!'
As this cuts off access, a "step over" is installed for acces and egress to the contained and protected drainage enclosure. The process of scratch building the sloping wall and the drain and the "step over" have all had to have some experimentation and a lot of very slow step by step build and gluing!
Results so far are encouraging but still some fine detail to add and incorporation into the layout (grass removal)

[m.levin]

I like the UV idea, but a UV light in my loft, not a good idea

[Mountain]

It is an interesting idea to write an invisible (Actually almost invisible) pen to be seen under UV light the loco DCC address number.

[TimberSurf]

I like the UV idea, but a UV light in my loft, not a good idea

I did not mean to have a UV light bulb on permanently! I am talking about a UV torch that you use only when needed, by directing at one engine.
Just search for "UV Torch", they can be had for just a few pounds. I will get my engines out this weekend for "Guy's" visit and will mark them up and get some pictures.
Mountain, the better quality UV pens are like permanent black markers, very difficult to rub off, but in normal daylight or household bulb light are almost impossible to see.
The steps are finally done and are just getting final coats of paint, will photo them later today. Need to get the layout back together for the impending photo shoot, so workbench has been related to bits going on layout now, but as soon as Guy leaves, will be redirected to future projects.
Spoiler - scratch built modern petrol/maintenance garage and showroom with forecourt display - working lifts, lights and welding arc

[End2end]

the better quality UV pens are like permanent black markers, very difficult to rub off, but in normal daylight or household bulb light are almost impossible to see.

I know exactly what you mean. Red marker pen cannot be seen under red light!
Note to self - Never burn CD's to play in dark places with red marker pen on! ALWAYS use black. At least vinyl you could decipher by the label art.
Thanks
End2end