St. Blazey's Works and Depot

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It seems editing a post doesn't show up as new so I am just giving the previous post and the questions therein a bump.
Thanks
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EDIT: I have just done another test and BOTH wires concected to the front bogie are buzzing on BOTH tracks.
This has raised a question. Should the motor bogie AND the front bogie have traction tyres?
As only 2 wheels on one side of the motor have them on mine.

The non motor bogie does not need tyres, it shouldn't have the grooves for them, but the wheels on one side should have the plastic gear inserts, purely to insulate the wheels. When assembled and ready to be fitted into the chassis, the wheels with the inserts should be on the opposite rail to the tyred and geared wheels on the motor bogie. The two bogie frames provide the place to attach the red and black wires and once DCC is installed nothing else should be connected to them.
I'd proceed like this, remove both bogies and all wiring. Remove the gear retaining clip and take off the idler gears. Now you can stand the two bogies on the track couplers pointing fore and aft. Connect a black wire to the cast stud on the back of the motor housing. Connect a red wire to block of the trailing bogie. You now have red and black for input to the decoder (or socket). Now connect the motor wires ( orange and grey the other way) between the decoder and the two brush retaining terminals on the motor.
Now you can test that you can control the motor, as the gear will rotate but not drive anything as you removed the idler gears.
Once you've done that , you can refit the idler gears and stuff the whole lot back in the body to do a running test. Once you have a running loco you can look at fitting lights etc, but remember, nothing extra should be connected to the bogies, it all must come from the common and the function outputs on the decoder.

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The non motor bogie does not need tyres, but the wheels on one side should have the plastic gear inserts, purely to insulate the wheels. When assembled and ready to be fitted into the chassis, the wheels with the inserts should be on the opposite rail to the tyred and geared wheels on the motor bogie.

Yes that is all correct.

The two bogie frames provide the place to attach the red and black wires and once DCC is installed nothing else should be connected to them. I'd proceed like this, remove both bogies and all wiring.

I was thinking to keep the 2 brown wires that are already attached to the front bogie and solder them to the red wire.
But do both wires pick up power? and THE SAME polarity?

Connect a red wire to block of the trailing bogie.

I take it you mean the front /unmotored bogie as it's a HST?
Thanks
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There was only one wire on mine and it was connected into a vertical slot near the centre of the cast metal block.Anything connected to the block should show continuity to the rail on the uninsulated side. There wasn't even a wire for the lights, it had the mouldings but no bulb, poverty park model. Everything is back to front in the HSTs as there was no head-room to put the motor bogie at the sharp end.

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Ahh I see thanks Bufferstop.
I ran the tests and also tried each brown wire on the front bogie connected to red one at a time and both worked, then I tried both together and that worked too.
I'm wondering to use both as this may assist pick up.

I am now going to solder the harness in but leave the other function wires long for now until I worked out the wiring route for them.
I need to split the blue(common) cable for 3 functions (white, yellow and green) forward / rear lighting plus the cab light which will need a 1KOHm resistor inline.

You were right on the cab light too. I think it's actually a rear/headlights board as one of the componants is indeed a red smd.
I've worked out the 3 solder points (marked as 3,5 and 6) are as follows.
6 + 3 = white light
6 + 5 = red light.
I'm not sure where the green function wire goes and on which wire (connected to 6 or 3) should have the resistor?
But that lot will come next.
Thanks Bufferstop. I can now move on.
Thanks
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I've installed the decoder and the loco is moving albeit with quite a slow acceleration which I don't think I can change due to the EZ Command controller.
So it's time to move on to the next part of this conversion, the lighting and stay alive part.
The decoder itself has 2 wires to attatch to the stay alive that comes with the decoder but this is a paltry stay alive so I want to add a decent stay alive with more storage power due to my insulfrog points.

A lot of 3rd party / home made stay alive circuits seem to attach to the red and black track wires whereas mine has dedicated wiring so which should I connect a 3rd party / home made stay alive circuit to, as it will be larger (in storage capacity) than the offical one?

For the dummy car another question is, do I remove the dummy motor load resistor once programmed or can it be safely left connected?
Thanks
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I've just gone back and completed the Intercity coaches, adding another 1KOhm resistor to dim the lights somewhat.
Now the window/roof part won't sit flush on either coach and I've managed to crack one trying to get it positioned correctly.
If I knew this at the start I may never have opened them in the first place.
I give up with Hornby, I honestly do. *%&$*^!!

I am going to call the project finished as I really can't be bothered to wrangle with them anymore.
I don't think I'll bother trying to light the sleeper coach as it's a Lima version so hard to get into anyway.
The buffet car on the otherhand should have passengers and lighting once I've bought one.

Also a quick bump for the 2 questions asked in the previous post for the actual power and dummy cars.
Thanks
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I am coming back round to the keep alive circuit project for the HST and have found a circuit diagram that shows me how to wire up the resistor, diode and capacitor.


Looking at this website it lists what components are needed, albeit for a kit they sell.
https://www.railwayscenics.com/4700uf-2 ... -1952.html
1 x 4700uf 25v capacitor
1 x 1A 50V Rectifier Diode - 1N4001
1 x 100 ohm resistor

I've ordered all of the componants although instead of 100 Ohm resistors I've opted for 220 Ohm. Due to reading something today in a publication.
http://mrhpub.com/2013-03-mar/port/file ... ex.html#85 - PAGES 84 to 86
I'm hoping the 4700uf capacitor will store enough power to keep any loco moving over the dead spots and insulfrogs.
The ones I have ordered are 30 x 16 x 7.5mm in size so should fit in the HST body. If not I'll need a new plan.
Once I've soldered the components together they will attach to the 2 specific stay-alive wires on the DCC Concepts decoder.
Thanks
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I have decided that the 4700uf capacitor is just too big for the HST so (although knowing nothing about them) can I ask about super capacitors. (I think thats the term for them)

I'd need one thats 4700uf and probably 25v.
As far as I am aware these super capacitors are flat-ish but I don't know what to look for. Can anyone help with some examples please?
Thanks
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[RAF96]

Probably a bit late to the party but...
Traction tyres would not be of use on a non driven bogie.

Back to your pictures of the lighting boards.

The yellow things marked LED x are the white and red lights which would match up to a plastic prism for the actual lights.

The three connections on the back of the board will be blue positive, white for fwd lights negative and yellow for red lights negative. Usually the positive is apart from the other two.
Rob

[TimberSurf]

I have decided that the 4700uf capacitor is just too big for the HST so (although knowing nothing about them) can I ask about super capacitors. (I think thats the term for them)

I'd need one thats 4700uf and probably 25v.
As far as I am aware these super capacitors are flat-ish but I don't know what to look for. Can anyone help with some examples please?
Thanks
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The problem they have is they are either 2.5V max or 5V max!
You CAN put them in series, i.e. 3 in series would allow up to 15V to be applied, however, you only get the inverse of the capacitance i.e. 3 x 1,000uF in series would give 300uF capacity!
So 5 in series would give 25V rating, but you need 5 x cost of one, given they are not cheap, it will soon be equal cost of buying an off the shelf!
They are very small and in the order of 10,000 times smaller than normal electrolytic, so capacity is not an issue eg. 0.1F (100,000uF) is 13.5 Dia X 7.5 high mm but at about £1.50 ea, it soon mounts up!

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Next loco in the works arrived today. ECC liveried 0-4-0.
Not sure if it was a runner I ran some tests with a 9v battery, no success, and then with a Hornby controller using rolling road blocks sat on a piece of track, still with no success. I've managed to get it apart and attach power direct to the motors terminals and still no success so the motor is definatly dead and I need a replacement.
Here it is sitting in it's constituent parts

ECC3sm.jpg (88.49 KiB) Viewed 2617 times

And the motor on it's own.

ECC5sm.jpg (67.14 KiB) Viewed 2617 times

Can anyone advise what would be the replacement motor with gear that I can just "drop in" as it were.
I've never replaced a motor before so I don't have a clue what I need.

Also, on the side of the blue body, on what looks like a long toolbox is the wording "CROFT LEICESTER" in white. Rubbing my finger over it I'm sure it's a transfer rather than a 3d relief of the body moulding.
Would this be able to be removed with a fibreglass pen without damaging the bodywork?
Thanks
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It's part no X2258, New Modellers Shop has three in stock ATM. You can get them almost anywhere. It comes with a neutral plastic coloured gear, AFAIK, they are all the same pitch, but they are exceedingly easy to change, should you want to. You'll need a pair of long nose pliers and a watchmakers screwdriver or similar smaller in diameter than the shaft. Put the pliers onto the shaft between the gear and motor body, so it's holding the shaft loosely but supporting the gear, hold the handles solidly on the edge of the table and press down on the exposed end of the shaft. The gear is only a friction fit on the shaft. I've not had one fail, the most likely cause of a burnout these days is using one on address zero on DCC and not isolating it between runs. Qué little whisps of smoke emerging from under the body.

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I'll remove and keep the worm gear from the broken motor then I think.
Just looking on ebay at this - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hornby-X8966 ... SwKTVakWFl
Is the X8966 motor the same as an X2258 or an X8004 motor or are one of them newer or something.
What's the actual difference? Does anyone know please?
Thanks
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Is the X8966 motor the same as an X2258 or an X8004 motor or are one of them newer or something.
What's the actual difference? Does anyone know please?

Can I just bump this last question as I'd like to buy a motor?
The X8966 is cheaper on ebay at the moment than an X2258 IF they are the same.
Thanks
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