Renumbering and using HRMS water-slide transfers.
Renumbering and using HRMS water-slide transfers.
I've used a number of different Transfers, and a number of different transfer methods over the years, and I can only honestly recommend HRMS's transfers. The HRMS transfers use the Water Slide method, which I find is by far the most easiest to get right.
There are two different methods of renumbering, although there are a number of different ways to achieve the first method. The first method is to remove the numbers already on the locomotive, now this can not always be done, due to a resent development in the manufacturing process. Tampth (Spl?) Printing, which is basically like a giant laser printer which prints the whole locomotive livery on to the model in one go. The traditional way is of course to paint the locomotive, then apply transfers. Older locomotives, will have the later technique, the newer technique only really applies to bachmann locomotives released with the last year to year and a half.
Now to remove numbers I have been recommend to use methylated sprits on a cotton wool bud, and to rub away at the numbers. Now I found this method left a nasty white residue, which was hard to remove. So what I do is to use a Cotton wool bud dipped in thinners, and then to rub away at the numbers. Now this method only works on models that have has the numbers transfered to the locomotive, using this method on tampth printed models will remove not just the numbers, but the whole bit of paint, leaving a nasty hole which is difficult to fix. Now there is no discernible test for tampth printing, other than to try it, but be very careful and if the numbers don't begin to fade, STOP immediately. If in doubt, don't do it, and skip to method two. Method two is to paint over the the numbers, I recommend the use of an airbrush to do any painting.
Now I'm going to talk you through re-numbering a few of my locomotives.
Method one.
This is my Class 40, which I picked up at warley. This locomotive is a traditional transfer number design. First up, as you can see I have applied some tape to mask off the TOPS data panel, which is very well represented on the bachmann model. I ned used a cotton wool bud dipped in railmatch thinners, and rub away until the numbers faded, as shown here on my Bachmann class 37.
And here you have the numbers completely removed.
Now at this point, I'd recommend applying a squirt of Gloss varnish from an airbrush, this will give a firm seating for the new transfers. So here is my Class 37 masked up for gloss varnish.
Now I have carefully cut out the HRMS numbers with a scalpel, and positioned them onto the model as shown here.
Once you have lined up the numbers, and are happy with the positioning, press them firmly in place, and apply a few drops of warm water over the transfer.
Leave for 30 seconds, then wipe the water and transfer backing paper gently away. This should leave the model looking like this.
To finish up, apply a squirt of Satin Varnish, this seals the numbers off, and prevents damage to the numbers.
Method two.
Method two is similar to method one in the latter steps, but to being with you must paint out the numbers first with an airbrush.
Here you can see my heljan class 47, it took 5 coats of Railmatch Rail Blue paint to block out the numbers. I then applied a squirt of gloss varnish to the areas required for transfers and decals, and followed the steps in method one to number and then to finish off with satin varnish.
Once finished you will hopefully end up with model looking like this.
Well I hope you have found this guide useful, please don't hesitate to ask any questions, and I'll edit this guide to cover anything I may have missed.
Regards
Matt
There are two different methods of renumbering, although there are a number of different ways to achieve the first method. The first method is to remove the numbers already on the locomotive, now this can not always be done, due to a resent development in the manufacturing process. Tampth (Spl?) Printing, which is basically like a giant laser printer which prints the whole locomotive livery on to the model in one go. The traditional way is of course to paint the locomotive, then apply transfers. Older locomotives, will have the later technique, the newer technique only really applies to bachmann locomotives released with the last year to year and a half.
Now to remove numbers I have been recommend to use methylated sprits on a cotton wool bud, and to rub away at the numbers. Now I found this method left a nasty white residue, which was hard to remove. So what I do is to use a Cotton wool bud dipped in thinners, and then to rub away at the numbers. Now this method only works on models that have has the numbers transfered to the locomotive, using this method on tampth printed models will remove not just the numbers, but the whole bit of paint, leaving a nasty hole which is difficult to fix. Now there is no discernible test for tampth printing, other than to try it, but be very careful and if the numbers don't begin to fade, STOP immediately. If in doubt, don't do it, and skip to method two. Method two is to paint over the the numbers, I recommend the use of an airbrush to do any painting.
Now I'm going to talk you through re-numbering a few of my locomotives.
Method one.
This is my Class 40, which I picked up at warley. This locomotive is a traditional transfer number design. First up, as you can see I have applied some tape to mask off the TOPS data panel, which is very well represented on the bachmann model. I ned used a cotton wool bud dipped in railmatch thinners, and rub away until the numbers faded, as shown here on my Bachmann class 37.
And here you have the numbers completely removed.
Now at this point, I'd recommend applying a squirt of Gloss varnish from an airbrush, this will give a firm seating for the new transfers. So here is my Class 37 masked up for gloss varnish.
Now I have carefully cut out the HRMS numbers with a scalpel, and positioned them onto the model as shown here.
Once you have lined up the numbers, and are happy with the positioning, press them firmly in place, and apply a few drops of warm water over the transfer.
Leave for 30 seconds, then wipe the water and transfer backing paper gently away. This should leave the model looking like this.
To finish up, apply a squirt of Satin Varnish, this seals the numbers off, and prevents damage to the numbers.
Method two.
Method two is similar to method one in the latter steps, but to being with you must paint out the numbers first with an airbrush.
Here you can see my heljan class 47, it took 5 coats of Railmatch Rail Blue paint to block out the numbers. I then applied a squirt of gloss varnish to the areas required for transfers and decals, and followed the steps in method one to number and then to finish off with satin varnish.
Once finished you will hopefully end up with model looking like this.
Well I hope you have found this guide useful, please don't hesitate to ask any questions, and I'll edit this guide to cover anything I may have missed.
Regards
Matt
That’s a good well written article. Any chance of me putting it on the main site? With the usual acknowledgements.
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Cheers for the Kind Comments Guys,
mortyfootball: I've used a Paint Brush to apply varnish before, But I did thin it like I would for an Airbrush. Aerosol may be a good idea too, but I found most paint aerosol's to be rather to thick and unwieldily to control. For a half decent compressor, you need one with a reservoir tank, other cheaper compressors will pulse, and give a bad finish. There is a small cheap one from expo tools for about £100, I plan on getting it myself. Generally the more you pay, the quieter the compressor is. I've got a big one at work for my air tools, and I have to wear ear defenders around it...
dr5euss: My main tip for using an airbrush is Practice, and lot's of it, getting the feel of a particular airbrush is half the battle. Cleaning is a hassle, I tend to use small metal cup, as opposed to the Glass jar, but I do clean everything thoroughly. I've not used Acrylics yet, but I am keen to try. To be honest, I think it would still take the same amount of cleaning after use.
Matt
mortyfootball: I've used a Paint Brush to apply varnish before, But I did thin it like I would for an Airbrush. Aerosol may be a good idea too, but I found most paint aerosol's to be rather to thick and unwieldily to control. For a half decent compressor, you need one with a reservoir tank, other cheaper compressors will pulse, and give a bad finish. There is a small cheap one from expo tools for about £100, I plan on getting it myself. Generally the more you pay, the quieter the compressor is. I've got a big one at work for my air tools, and I have to wear ear defenders around it...
dr5euss: My main tip for using an airbrush is Practice, and lot's of it, getting the feel of a particular airbrush is half the battle. Cleaning is a hassle, I tend to use small metal cup, as opposed to the Glass jar, but I do clean everything thoroughly. I've not used Acrylics yet, but I am keen to try. To be honest, I think it would still take the same amount of cleaning after use.
Matt
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You mean Clean?mortyfootball wrote:Cheers Matt for the advice. How do you len your airbrush?
Shaun
If so I strip the Airbrush apart, and clean with and Areosol aribrush cleaner and cotton wool bud sticks dipped in Thinners. After reasembly, I run the air brush for 5 seconds, with only Thinners spraying through the nosle.
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Excellent article Matt .......thanks for sharing it. .......
btw ..........I've got a "Badger 150" airbrush tucked away in me garage "somewhere" ....I used to do custom painting on 'bikes & cars in the 70's/early 80's ....I'm only [or was only ] used to working in cellulose paint with it though .......do you use "Railmatch" exclusively? ...whats the result like with "Humbrol" .........
Cheers .....
T.
btw ..........I've got a "Badger 150" airbrush tucked away in me garage "somewhere" ....I used to do custom painting on 'bikes & cars in the 70's/early 80's ....I'm only [or was only ] used to working in cellulose paint with it though .......do you use "Railmatch" exclusively? ...whats the result like with "Humbrol" .........
Cheers .....
T.
I know it's the fastest .....but why did they have to name it after a duck?
I only use Railmatch for Airbrushing, but I've got one or two pots of humbrol which I use to brush paint fine detail, like the Red and Yellow Taps and Connectors on Airbrake Pipes.TerryB wrote:Excellent article Matt .......thanks for sharing it. .......
btw ..........I've got a "Badger 150" airbrush tucked away in me garage "somewhere" ....I used to do custom painting on 'bikes & cars in the 70's/early 80's ....I'm only [or was only ] used to working in cellulose paint with it though .......do you use "Railmatch" exclusively? ...whats the result like with "Humbrol" .........
Cheers .....
T.
I've always got the result I wanted with Railmatch, so have never needed to explore other paints.