Gluing track

[james2k]

Hi all,

Been doing some googling and am curious as to what glue to use to glue the track down. Everything seems to point to PVA? Which is fine till you start ballasting? Surely the PVA water mix would unstick it?

[Ex-Pat]

I use the PVA neat, and apply the ballast immediately the track is laid (PVA still wet) - just hoover up any surplus after 10 minutes - 2 birds with 1 stone!

[james2k]

I was hoping to do the ballasting at a later date. If you use neat PVA to glue the track down. Would the PVA/water mix dilute if it is set?

[craw607]

I think it may loosen it slightly could you not pin track do ballasting
then remove the pins and infill the bits that have been missed.
John

[Bufferstop]

I lay the track pinning it lightly. Use Peco pins don't push them right in and bend horizontal. Test the track for any potential running problem, mark the board along the sleeper ends. Pull out the pins lift the track, spread PVA put the track back down and pin it again. Once it's set in place re-test, when I'm happy with it I dry ballast and dribble on diluted PVA. When dried I pull out the pins. It's sometimes necessary to pin points to keep them dead flat. The PVA seems to hold the points firmly enough to attach a mechanical push rod (straightened paper clips) for operating.

[b308]

The only thing I'd add to the above is to do any wiring before ballasting!

[james2k]

Thank you for your advice.

I am certainly doing all the wiring first. Not doing that mistake again!

[RFS]

I glue the track down first with neat PVA (actually Evostik woodworker adhesive as it's a bit stronger). I ballast in the normal way much later but I've never had a problem with the ballasting process causing the track to unglue itself.

[pete12345]

The problem with glueing the track down as you lay it, is that you have no chance to test the installation before it's fixed permanently. I pin the track temporarily using hardboard tacks, hammered between the sleepers. The wide flat head grips the sleeper and allows for minor adjustments. I then wire up and test the track and wiring for correct operation.

Liberally applying glue during ballasting will stick the track down firmly enough. The tacks can then be removed and the holes filled in with ballast. However, I use point motors attached directly to the point, whereas if you use a different method you may need to pin the points in position.

[Karhedron]

I used latex adhesive (copydex) to glue my track down. It sets a bit faster than PVA but retains a bit of flexibilty when dry which is useful. Also it is much easier to remove if you make a mistake. Latex will soften when heat is applied. I managed to lift a siding I had laid incorrectly by heating it with a hairdryer with no damage to the track.

You should have seen my wife's face when she saw what I was doing.

[Flashbang]

Hi
If PVA is used and there is a possibility of the track being lifted later on then use a PVA thats not water proof or listed as suitable for external use as this type would normally come away once set.
Also mix the water to PVA more dilute around 70 water /30 PVA. This will still bond but that bond wont be quite as strong as normal
Latex e.g. Copydex, is a great alternative use it 50/50 with water or even 60 water / 40 latex.
BTW Latex is normally cheaper to buy from a carpet flooring shop than in little tubes or small bottles as sold by many DIY stores

[RFS]

The problem with glueing the track down as you lay it, is that you have no chance to test the installation before it's fixed permanently.

It's not a problem as, if you only put glue on every 2-3 sleepers, it's enough to hold in place including doing the ballasting. If your testing shows up an alignment problem it's easy to adjust the track by sliding a flat wallpaper stripper tool underneath the relevant piece to release it. Once you're happy with the re-alignment you can re-glue the track in situ. To do this I put blobs of PVA on a scrap piece of paper and slide it under the sleepers. This deposits glue on the underside of the sleepers and I then weight it or pin it until the glue sets.

[pete12345]

I guess that method would work well. The trouble arises from laying the track on a bed of glue and ballasting at the same time, as you only have a limited time in which to work and no scope for correcting things later on. I always think it's better to get the track laid and wired before doing any ballasting or other scenic jobs.