HOW TO--COACH LIGHTING.

waz · Post by **waz** » Sun Sep 24, 2006 10:04 am

Hi rmg !!

Thanks for the info. Seems very complicated to me. I chose the Rupert the Bear method for simplicity and I'm glad I did. What I've done so far will do the job for me. I'm not loking for total realism just some light in them. Also I have quite a few to do and even my simple method will take an age.
I don't seem to suffer from any overheating from the bulbs, so from that aspect they're okay. The heat generated from the bulbs is very local and doesn't travel far from the source. So as long as there is no direct contact with a surface they're okay.
Good luck with the project and post some photos when you're there.
My Best regards
BILL.

m.levin · Post by **m.levin** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 7:28 pm

Im made a start on my coach lights I'm going to use LEDs instead of wheat Grain

waz · Post by **waz** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 9:55 am

Hi Mr Levin

Well done!! As they say," a journey of a thousand miles begins with one step"
Good luck!!

Best Regards

BILL.

Beerhunter · Post by **Beerhunter** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 5:49 pm

m8internet wrote:
waz wrote:Can you explain why I need to use a resistor on a grain of wheat bulb??
The bulb is only rated at 80mA
You therefore need a resistor as the current supplied could be as high as 5A

Furthermore, if this were fitted to a train on DCC the current is always about 5A and there is a danger the bulb could overheat

Only just spotted this M8internet (and your later explantion). I suggest you revise Ohm's Law.

gregsexton · Post by **gregsexton** » Thu Nov 02, 2006 7:12 pm

Hi,

I got it all, however I dont understand how the electric connection from the wheles on the track can conect to the screws on the bogie when modern bogies are made of a plastic type material, or am I just Thick...I just don't get the electrcal conection, please help.

Regards,

Greg

Silver Surfer · Post by **Silver Surfer** » Wed Nov 08, 2006 7:18 pm

Greg

If you read Bills article (near the end) it points out that if you are using all plastic wheels these need to be changed to the metal ones. Plastic is none conductive so there's no way they'll work until you do this.

Mike.

Ironduke · Post by **Ironduke** » Wed Nov 08, 2006 9:19 pm

gregsexton wrote:Hi,

I got it all, however I dont understand how the electric connection from the wheles on the track can conect to the screws on the bogie when modern bogies are made of a plastic type material, or am I just Thick...I just don't get the electrcal conection, please help.

Regards,

Greg

you have to make some pickups from metal that brush on the wheels, you can use strips of copper or brass, phosphor bronze wire... I don't know if there's a commercially available option.

rmg1919 · Post by **rmg1919** » Wed Nov 08, 2006 9:57 pm

You can get phosphor bronze guitar strings (I think) -- not sure what they cost, and whether they are properly conductive (might they be insulated with something?).

Perhaps any musicians might be able to help?

Imberclub · Post by **Imberclub** » Wed Nov 08, 2006 10:19 pm

www.mainlytrains.com should sell all of the above.

Ironduke · Post by **Ironduke** » Wed Nov 08, 2006 10:32 pm

Imberclub wrote:www.mainlytrains.com should sell all of the above.

Oh yes of course.. I love Mainly Trains. I meant a commercially available prefabricated coach wheel power pickup option.

waz · Post by **waz** » Sat Nov 11, 2006 1:17 pm

Hi Chaps !!!

Guitar strings !!!!!!! Now why didn't I think of that?

I have 2 guitars and loads of strings. This, I think will make a lighter contact with the wheels so cutting down on the drag created by my copper wire pick-ups.
I'll try it in the next few days and report back.

Strings are not dear and there is alot in just one. Which guage to use is the question. The B and E strings are just fine wire. I'll try one of those.

Best Regards

BILL.

gregsexton · Post by **gregsexton** » Sun Nov 12, 2006 9:18 am

Hi All,

I twigged it! The first time I looked at it I had had a few Drinks and was a bit Piss"""d, I shall not be when I attempt this, I got all the Stuff, just one thing, is the foil just for reflection or to make the light go further, or does it serve a different purpose?

Regards,

Greg

waz · Post by **waz** » Mon Nov 20, 2006 10:06 am

Hi Greg!!!

Sorry it's been so long to reply. Anyway if it's not too late, I put the foil there to reflect the light a bit, also I think, it tends to dissapate the heat from the bulb when using grain of wheat.

Best Regards

BILL.

gregsexton · Post by **gregsexton** » Mon Nov 20, 2006 4:35 pm

Hi Bill,

Thanks, no not too late...I just purchased a Rotacraft Mini Rotary Tool with 60 Pieces and a 400 piece accessory pack all for Â£23.00 from Maplins, what a BARGAIN!!!!!!! I can now do lots of work including the lighting. Will let you know if I do good...got 3 weeks holiday as from next Monday, so plenty of time to electricute myself! I go fishing anyway.

Regatrds,

Greg

gregsexton · Post by **gregsexton** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 11:53 am

Hi Bill,

I did it! Bloody Fiddly isn't it, and took a wee while to get a good contact, still the whole coach is well lit. So I say Thank You for the instructions.....first attempt took me 3 hours!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

Still I know the pitfalls now and oddly enough I didn't electricute myself.

Regards,

Greg

New Railway Modellers Forums

HOW TO--COACH LIGHTING.

Lighting Up

Re: Lighting Up

Getting It

Lighting a NSE 2nd Class Coach