Dean Sidings "Killin Pug" conversion set.

[Dad-1]

Hi E2V,

The thought of a bow pen leaves me trembling with fear !!

Anyway guys ...

This morning I've more or less cracked it ..... what's not explained in the fashion I'd have required is that the top proctective sheet is nothing to do with the transfers or their application. The basic transfer sheet is a 4 layer membrane :- Decal (reverse printed); Water release adhesive; Carrier film; Backing paper.

Working under a bright light I've been able to remove transfers now I understand the way the sheet 'works'. I still have trouble lining accurately enough through the white opaque carrier film - I'm also using a generic sheet and have used a small corner that didn't have a full white edging (one edge only). Because the sheets are reverse printed the reverse is just seen as black & dosen't show the white edge until the transfer has been removed from its sheet. The opaque white carrier makes it difficult to be certain if the roughly 0.25 mm white edge is there !!

I now need to know how to remove an attached transfer. I tried a quick wipe with acetone, but paint was coming off easier than the transfer, bit odd as normally car paint that's been painted a few weeks resists most solvents. I certainly don't want to repaint the whole thing.

Still thinking waterslide transfers are easier to work with, line-up and even remove. However having spent £12 + P&P I need to understand these and just try to improve my technique.

Geoff T

[mattmay05]

Usually i remove it with a bit of meth on a cotton bud, or try and get the edge of the transfer up with a knife and take it off that way.

Don't agree with the waterslides... they just don't stay where there put, I tried these previously before moving to HMRS, and once one side is done and turned to do the other... otherside has moved... quite fustrating, ill never use them again, And Fox's have changed and a hell of alot more complex to put on than previous.

[Dad-1]

Hi Mattmay05,

Probably because I'm very slow and tend to work one side, then leave overnight before touching the other I have no problems with post application movement using waterslide.
I think I'd agree that HMRS for basic boiler bands is ideal - I may get to love them .... but ..... I certainly wouldn't want to try and make up 6 or 7 digit numbers that need to be equally spaced, upright, and following an exact line with 3 mm high numbers as I have frequently done.

As you're aware I'm an absolute novice with loco kits so would like to meet up some time as I'm certain you can offer some valuable help. I am looking at a DJH kit as the next learning exercise. I'll send a PM later - perhaps tomorrow.

Geoff T.

[mattmay05]

Hi Geoff,

Yes absolutly fine by me i'll await your PM.

HMRS are ok once you get to know them, its getting to know how to use them is the tricky bit, i was lucky and got shown... and i was fine there on in. Sadly waterslide and methfix, we don't get on too well, all be i still do use them for a few locos as thats what their only available in.

Cheers Matt

[Valentascream]

hi geoff,
looks great, i'm very jealous.
thats the only thing putting me off building a kit, is painting and furthermore, lining.

Jamie

[Dad-1]

O.K Jamie .....

I fully understand the fear of it going wrong ..... BUT without trying, and being prepared to have it go wrong you don't ever learn.
If you choose something that requires colours available from Halfords car spray range apart from the expenditure you should get a decent finish, if not first time, then after a small trial. You can always do a trial run on a smooth cardboard box (not super shiny as it won't flatten out as I have found out)

Certainly the Dean Sidings kits are easy and shouldn't cause any major building problems, although there's always the odd place where some modification or adjustment is needed.
Have you tried a wagon kit ? The principal is much the same and being so much cheaper you can afford to 'experiment'. Matts article is a comprehensive wagon build and following that you should get a good result - then with confidence from that try a loco kit that runs on a RTR chassis. Then at least your running properties should be acceptable.

You'll also find loads of people on NRM that will go out of their way to help should you run into difficulties.

Geoff T.

[Valentascream]

cheers geoff for the tips,
i may tackle a parkside dundas kit now....

[deeslexia]

Fascinating , thanks.
dee

[retiredoperator]

Hi Geoff T and of course All Modellers
As far as Model Railways are concerned I am a complete novice, and recently I went on a famous auction site and really dropped my self in, now I want to make the best of a bad buy.
Six Hornby Pugs, but I'm not that bothered by there looks, they were sold as " Six Assorted Shunters" a bit too fast for that job though, but if I could run em a bit slower, and DCC them that would be good. The Pugs were 1/ Blue Diamond ,2/ C R, 3/ GER, 4/ GWR, 5/ M R,
And 6/ B R Blue Diesel. A right bunch they are too, any suggestions please.Happy modelling. Kev

[retiredoperator]

Hi Geoff T. Back again , I didn't see the mention of DCC Decoders the first time.
Is there really enough room inside a Pug to fit a Decoder? Although I don't know if I am up to the job, but please give me a clue on the best Decoder happy modelling Kev

[Dad-1]

Hi retiredoperator,

Right, Let's be brutally honest, those little Hornby 0-4-0 'racers' are cheap nasty
pretend locomotives that tend to be at their happiest at a scale 123 Mph !!

O.K what can be done with them ? Two significant modifications CAN, not always
though, tame them into useful little locomotives.
First take the body off and pack in as much lead as you can find room for. This has
several advantages, one of the main ones being aiding electric pick-up.
The other is when running well enough adding a decoder and running on DCC.
This gives much finer control, but you'll need to be quite sensitive to opening the
throttle, that 123 Mph motor and gearing is still there !!

I have 4 of these chassis with the original Hornby bodies and the conversion as shown
in this thread. ALL have been converted to DCC, with varying degrees of success.
You may be aware that the same chassis is used in the Class 06 diesel shunter, one
of which is probably my 'Favourite' locomotive.
I fitted the Hornby R8249 decoder to all mine, this is quite a small decoder and if used
with say a Hornby Select works well enough. They must be hard wired in so soldering
skills and equipment needed

There are essentials .... You MUST keep track and wheel treads spotlessly clean. You need
to check that all the wheel wipers for electrical pick-up are rubbing quite heavily, also
worth rubbing the wheel backs where the wipers contact with a quality 3B graphite pencil.
That graphite makes a highly conductive film.

To show what CAN be achieved watch this shunting video I made quite a while back.

https://youtu.be/TaWdlHCzfMI

Geoff T.

[Bufferstop]

Hi Retiredoperator, given the variability of this particular chassis I would recommend getting the running sorted before putting a chip in. This means you need a DC controller to test them. The ones that have a diecast footplate are the best bet for success. Unclip the motor on all of them and check for free running, no binding, wobbling wheels or loose crankpins. Hold each wheel in turn and try to move the coupling rod on the crank pin. The amount of movement you are looking for is enough that you can notice it, too small to measure it, and the same on all wheels. I don't recommend taking the wheels off the axles, so cleaning the axle bearings is best done with isopropyl alcohol, or meths, using a small brush to apply it from inside the chassis, then wobbling the axle from side to side. The spring that holds down the motor is pretty vicious and can result in the points of the worm pressing on the bottom of the grooves in the gear, a thin shim underneath the front end of the motor will sometimes reduced the friction in the drive, which helps with reducing the voltage needed to start the motor turning, which helps with slow running. If you want to add weight to improve their running somewhere between thirty and fifty grams spread between the axles is about right. If your body doesn't have space for it at the centre, half each end but as close to the wheels as possible. Twenty grams on each bufferbeam has amusing effects but not what you want.

[retiredoperator]

Hi Geoff T. Thanks, unfortunately I had asked Bufferstop some questions that I meant to ask yourself, but, here goes .i purchased a Track Cleaner, in the form of a roller, fitted inside a brakevan and using Isopropyl Alcohol from Dave at Lanarkshire Models, no problem there.
A 38 Graphite pencil is new to me, I will look that up. I saw the "Magic Wand Video "
Is that easy to put Videos on New Railway Modellers site? One day? If I get that far? I would like to do that. Thanks again happy modelling Kev

[Dad-1]

Hi Kev,

Used that rather than the pseudonym as it's so much shorter !
Getting videos on, rather like getting still pictures on relys on
having a 'service' provider where the visual content is hosted
elsewhere, but you get a link code that's then entered into your
NRM thread.
For still pictures I think most of us still use Photobucket, but they're
useless with video, where by my experience Youtube is by far the
best. They provide a 'Free' service, but you need to open an account
having personal log in details. All very easy once you get the hang
of it.

Geoff T.

[retiredoperator]

Hi Geoff T. Kev is fine by me, up until now? I have always been called that. I have made a "breakthrough "? On one of my "Dark Red" Pugs I have just noticed under the cab " two dark red"bits? could they be the clips? ''cos if they are? I cannot shift them. Please tell me how without breakage I can release the chassis. Happy Modelling Kev