Dean Sidings "Killin Pug" conversion set.

[Dad-1]

Hi Kev,

These little 0-4-0's had so many different forms and I've only had
a few. Off hand I can't even remember how I took my versions apart.

Have you a camera ? A photo would help me. Sometimes there's a hidden screw
at one end and a couple of moulded in clips on the other. I don't suppose you
got a box that would give the product number, from that you can find service
sheets on-line.

Geoff T.

[Bufferstop]

Which body is this Kev?
The GWR open cab has two clips underneath the bunker which release the bunker and cab floor, held down at the front by two tabs which go into a slot under the cab front. This exposes two hooks at the rear, which along with one on either side in the "daylight under the boiler" hold the front end together. The two holding the back end of the body are just about visible with the cab floor in place, but far easier to get at with it out of the way. I'm afraid you have to be prepared on older samples for these to break. A spot of clear adhesive, Bostik, Uhu or similar works well holding the bits together, it's not quite a permanent bond and can be pulled apart and cleaned up at a later date.

[retiredoperator]

Update c/o "Our friends at Hornby"
Hi Geoff T, Bufferstop, and all interested parties. Hornby have sent me a service sheet that doesn't fit my Pugs. My Pugs seem to be cheaper than the ones described in the sheet.
The sheet mentions replaceable couplings, held on by a screws, but my couplings are all in one with the chassis. Cheapo! Happy modelling Kev

[Bufferstop]

The Killin Pug conversion is based on the Hornby Caledonian pug, same chassis as Smokey Joe, GWR 101, TTTF Percy, the 0-4-0 Thomas, and many others. Sounds like you have the sheet for the former Dapol L&Y pug. Try http://www.hornbyrepairs.com/spares.asp?type=1. There are about four sheets for the range of 0-4-0s

[retiredoperator]

Hi Bufferstop. Thanks for that, progress . Re the GWR open cab, I have just located the clips that hold the bunker in position . But that is as far as I have got. There is a number impressed into thr underside of the bunker R077*020 I don't know if this helps.
Happy modelling. Kev

[retiredoperator]

Hi Geoff T. I am using my iPad more than ever lately , I can take photos with that, the photos are very sharp to. But, I don't know how to put them on NRM's. Kev

[retiredoperator]

Hi Geoff T. I am using my iPad more than ever lately , I can take photos with that, the photos are very sharp to. But, I don't know how to put them on NRM's. Kev

[Dad-1]

As I mentioned somewhere photographs need to be hosted on an image sharing
server. Many here use www.photobucket.com where you can have a 'free' hosting
service.
Follow their instructions to open a 'free' account.
You then store your photographs in your account and each photograph has
an image code that you then copy and enter into your thread

It is dogged with advertising, but that's what makes it possible for them to provide
a free service. They have a subscription service without adverts, but best to put
up with the ads.

Have a go and if you still have trouble I'll get Alex to explain, being young and IT
savy I'm certain he'll be more help than me.

Geoff T.

[Bufferstop]

The chassis to body clips are visible just below the boiler at the back of the smokebox, one on either side. Press these in and the front end will drop slightly. Two hooks toward the rear engage in two square holes in the bottom of the firebox. These are the ones that are difficult to see with the cab floor in place. When replacing the body these go in first, then snap the front end together, making sure the connecting rods are sitting in the slots through the cylinders.
As these clips and hooks are part of the chassis, they will be in the same position when used with other bodies.

[retiredoperator]

Hi Geoff T. And Bufferstop
I have just been reading George Dents Model Rail, Workbench . Following his advice, I found that it "was a piece of cake" to remove the cab and bonnet. But then, I don't know if you have the July Model Rail yet, the motor in my 06 008 Shunter , The one that I thought was a Pug,
is different from the one photographed in the article . Now I am stumped !
The motor appears to be a different one to my motor? The motor in the article has clearly defined contacts in clear view , obviously there are both positive and negative , but I cannot see both. Happy modelling. Kev

[Bufferstop]

Take the motor out, if there are no terminals at the top with wires they may be underneath pressing directly onto springy contacts attached to the pickups. Originally the chassis was designed so the the motor pressed directly onto the pickups, avoiding the need for wiring. A good idea but it didn't stand up to heavy use. So they turned the motor the other way up and connected it with wires. There may also be a capacitor connected between the terminals and the metal can of the motor. It's supposed to be a radio interference suppressor. It doesn't seem to make much difference if it's removed. We are 40 miles from the transmitter, running the motor right next to a TV set to analogue with just a wire as an aerial I can't detect any interference from the motor without it.

[retiredoperator]

Hi Bufferstop. Many thanks. It does seem that I am trying to swim up a waterfall.
I am full of self doubt with my lack of experience. But especially with Hornby Bodywork
I have written about a spare Pug Body , but cannot find my letter? I am hoping that I will be able to hide a Decoder easier with the x3978 No 51235 body off eBay , Providing that it will fit my chassis off another Pug. Any advice will be welcome. Happy Modelling. Kev

[retiredoperator]

Hi Modellers This job is all very well, but I have become so Cackhanded since my retirement
I have found it hard going building kits. But I do applaud your work. Where I have to put up with RTR Locos , and I might live to regret it as my latest eBay purchase is an ex Dapol Pug and funnily enough it says Hornby China on the baseplate . I have been told that the Nylon Cogs wear out and I will have a job replacing them. Can any please help me??
Happy Modelling Kev

[Dad-1]

I would expect a Pug to have the same chassis as the Hornby 06 shunter, although there
were a few variations. My Marilyn has worked many, many hours and never worn out one
of the white plastic drive cogs. The bigger problem tended to be insufficient gap between
that drive cog and the worm on the motor shaft making a tight mesh that gave poor running.

There were of course two Pugs, the regular 0-4-0 as has been used on a multitude of different
mostly 'Imaginary' locomotives. Then there was the superior smaller Pug of which I never got one,
but these were about 3x the price, and dare I say it was probably worth it.

You would probably have done better buying a new 0-6-0 S&DJR jinty, or if diesel is acceptable
a class 06 0-4-0 blue diesel shunter. That place near Liverpool was doing the Jinty for about £25
and the class 06 was down to £19.
I tend to keep away from Ebay too many chances to get it wrong !

Geoff T.

[retiredoperator]

Hi Geoff T. Thank you. I have never seen " that shop near Liverpool " offering such low prices, otherwise I would have gone for them, even a personal visit . I purchased a " Dirty half dozen" of the cheaper Pug type for £30.00 recently, which was just about the price I paid for my L&Y Lion and Wheel Pug. This one does run well even with my track laying.it is different from the rest insofar as the motor fills the cab. All the best. Kev