Dean Sidings "Killin Pug" conversion set.

[buz]

Hi Dad 1
Now that does look the business.
All you need now is a 4wh coach or two that you can cut into look right brake coach's
Not one of the Caley ones you don't want to spoil those.

Got nothing to do with the loco but I assume those will be Scottish style houses if so how are you making them.
regards John

[Dad-1]

Hi Buz,

The fourth coach may just suffer the knife to add a couple of ducket windows. It simply depends on how I feel, certainly three came in 'as new' boxes unmarked, in fact the wheels didn't show any sign of use.

My problem is St.Oval was planned to be a Cornish West Country scene, on the east side of the river Fowey where no railway was ever built. The idea is to have China Clay traffic, cattle wagons, with a few 10/12 ton vans pulled by a 0-6-0 pannier tank, the passenger service by a 14XX powered autocoach. I have 13 china clay wagons, 2 brake vans, quite a few GW vans, a couple of opens one with a load of timber, one loco coal wagon, 2 cattle wagons and three Macaw bogie bolsters two of which have steel girder loads.
If the buildings are not too specific then perhaps it could become the West of Scotland ..... ?? .... all I have is the Std Pug. the Killin Pug and 4-2-2 '123'. As far as I'm aware there are very few late Victorian/Edwardian wagon kits around.

Funny, both ends of the country apeal to me - you can keep the urban built up areas, I like single track lines with wilder scenic expanses, running smaller locomotives. I have little interest in Pacifics, F9's, A4's, Black 5's. If this has a problem it's working out a 'show' routine to keep interest, even the passing/exchange loop behind St.Oval gives very limited options.

Still at least a years work on the layout and I've had to give up on working signals and level crossing gates - all too close to the edge and would be wiped off the first time I tried to move it.

Geoff T.

[buz]

Hi dad 1
There is is only just enough Scottish pre grouping stock around to do a short pick up goods train.
But its white metal kits your biggest problem would be a CR goods guards
van I have only seen those advertised as a brass kit.
No one seems to do a NB/LNER three plank fish which is one I want
All of which is not very important if its a Cornish layout.
regards John

[rocketman]

Dad-1
Those Caley coaches really look the business. A good pick up!
This should find you justification for running china clay behind a Caley loco
http://www.electricscotland.com/history ... stry19.htm
China clay is used in papermaking, so anywhere you have a paper mill....

and if you or buz care to look here you may find some period wagon kits (no brake though I think Caley Kits do that)
http://www.51l.co.uk/productrange.htm
or here for the NBR fish
http://www.nbr4mm.co.uk/wagonkits/9100.htm
or, of course, Parkside Dundas for LMS and LNER wagons https://vault1.secured-url.com/model/ac ... kside.html.

regards,
rocketman

[Dad-1]

Hi rocketman,

Were it not for you pointing out the items I would probably have missed them - Thanks !!
I have a picture somewhere of an 06 diesel shunting a mixed goods containing a 5 plank china clay wagon, either going to, or from Irvine where that particular papermill was/is.
Now it's your turn ! when are you going to spash out on the Killin Pug kit ?? If you get one I'll send you a pair of hooks and 3 link couplings .......

I've still not finished, because of my traction passion - even 0-4-0's should pull upto 25 wagons. While they never could pull that much weight in prototype form all the added weight necessary to haul 25+ improves the models electrical pick-up. So here is Killin hauling that magic 25 ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CCjkaDXq5F0

Now all I have to do is finalise that white plasticard that hides the look through effect above the worm drive and finish the livery.

Geoff T.

[rocketman]

I don't know when I will be 'splashing out' on the Killin Puggie kit...that is in the lap of the Old Etonians who rule us now.
I shall continue nonetheless.
I love your pug's running qualities
keep it up
we need your modelling
regards
rocketman

[Dad-1]

I just can't let it alone ....... or anything to put off having to add the lining !!




Added pipework on the westinghouse brake air system, added grab rails at the cab entrance, both from 15 amp fusewire. A pipe into the smoke box side (dunno what it was ?) and having removed the extended coal bunker top (not there in my photo) I've adder a rolled top, both from 30 amp fusewire.

Soon I'll HAVE to add that lining and touch up the paint - particularly the red/brown as the blue undercoat ruined my mix job !!

Geoff T.

[rocketman]

It look f***ing great without the lining.
I admire your persistence
rocketman

[Dad-1]

Hi rocketman,

I'm peed off ...... don't know how to 'work' the HMRS pressfix decals. As the decal is on a thick gummed sheet you can't see through it to line up corners and joins with the accuracy I want, nay demand. I've asked on RMweb to see if any more experienced guys can offer suggestions on how best to use these. Probably have to remove the corners and lower line as I'm just not happy. I won't be happy until the standard matches what I would expect to obtain with waterslide decals.



Gonna put it all away .......

Geoff T.

[TerryB]

Hi rocketman,

I'm peed off ...... don't know how to 'work' the HMRS pressfix decals. As the decal is on a thick gummed sheet you can't see through it to line up corners and joins with the accuracy I want, nay demand. ......

I can understand how you feel Geoff .....I even had trouble lining a set of HMRS Pressfix numbers up
I mean .. ....its not as though it would be "rocket science" putting them on a clear backing sheet
But whatever the answer is .....its got me beat .....

best regards
T.

[mattmay05]

Ive used the HMRS Transfers on all of my locos i make i don't have a major issue, there not like waterslide where you can move around as you have found out. You can still move them around by keeping them wet, and using a blunt implement to gently pull it to where you want it.

Other way of doing it is if you line up the beginning and only press where its lined up with and then just let the rest of the line rest of the line left loose on the surface and then get a paint brush and add water, the transfer again with a blunt implement can be moved easily but gently as they break easily.

Ill be in MK tomorrow if any assistance is needed

I have been using HMRS Single lining sheets for a while once you get the nack of it, it will come out fine. Heres a recently finished tender for my C-Class with all HMRS transfers applied, all single straight lines which are gently coax in to place and shape.

[Dad-1]

Hi all, particularly mattmay05 the one who knows how to 'work' these ......
When first reading the instructions it seems to indicate you cut through the protective covering paper, into, but not through the backing paper and lift off. Well there's no way the tack of the subject will stick enough to that protective paper to lift away the subject pulling some of the gummed backing paper with it.
Now both the protective and backing papers are so thick that I can't see through with enough clarity to work with either in place.

On RMWeb Mikkel seems to show that you remove the protective topping paper, cut around the subject, but not through the backing paper. Then lift off with the top surface of the backing paper. Well I tried that last evening and the integrity of the backing paper was too strong to lift just a layer away, and anyway the very top layer is in fact the Gum Arabic ? All that happened was that I destroyed the small piece of decal I was attempting to remove.

I have red-white transfers on the sheet I can experiment with and as I have no use for these should I destroy them all no real loss !!

My other thought was to use as I have done with 'difficult' waterslide transfers. That is to first add some watered down Krystal Kleer glazing meduim (rather a refined PVA for making windows) to the model. Cut out the subject complete with full backing paper, wet and slide the transfer onto the fluid layer in roughy the required location, then move into exact location while floating on the fluid before using a tissue or dry paintbrush to suck off most of the fluid. I use that technique to put some - particularly Czech Propag aircraft decals that grab on contact to high gloss finishes never to be moved again !

Mattmay05 I'm tempted to ask for a little of your time - only the wife is out at present and I seem to recall her saying we had to go to Northampton on Tuesday for some Christmas shopping !


I'm off to try some experiments on scraps of plasticard.

Geoff T.

[mattmay05]

Theres various ways of using the HMRS transfers some people have their own ways of using them I have mine.

I agree the transfer paper is quite thick but with a decent light you can aligne it ok. Again may need a bit of coaxing to line up.

To get the transfer from the main sheet you use a craft knife or a stanley knife, and lightly cut round the lining using a straight edge and then use the edge of the knife to lift the transfer off the backing and use a pair of tweasers (not wifes) and peal it off the main backing sheet.


Then i use my method of fixing it in one place and leaving the rest lightly laying on the top to position it.

If you do require a bit of assistance, then ill be probably be in MK today and maybe next monday, or otherwise PM me and we will arrange something as Im located all the way over in the dump of Aylesbury.

[slackbladder]

Geoff, megga admiration for what you are attempting there. You must have the patience of Job or Jobe if you like.

I can say that if it had been me in your shoes the lot would have been out the window by now.

Good luck mate, I know you will crack it.

[Essex2Visuvesi]

Have you considered a bow pen instead of transfers?