A DCC novice - some problems

[bombastic]

Hi guys,

I've just found my way back into modelling after *** years out of the game... After some research, I decided to have a pop at DCC, mainly because I quite like a challenge! I've got a number of very basic questions as I'm all a bit confused at the moment - the more I seem to read, the more confounded I get!

1) I'm modelling in N gauge, but have gained a Hornby Select DCC controller - I've read somewhere that it'll be fine to use for N gauge, but just wanted to check on this.

2) I fitted a DCC chip to my lovely new Farish X-Country Voyager 220, and after programming it on my programming track, although the lights get brighter when I turn the throttle, it doesn't go anywhere. Any ideas?

3) I've also got a Farish Class 57, and this doesn't have 'plug-and-play' like the Voyager, and I'm honestly at a loss as to where I should be soldering what to where. I've attached a photo, if that's any help at all. From what I can gather, I need to intercept the two contacts going to the motor, and put the chip there?



Many thanks indeed,

This forum has been an inspiration, and I'd say the main reason why I've ventured back into the small world of modelling!

[m8internet]

2) I fitted a DCC chip to my lovely new Farish X-Country Voyager 220, and after programming it on my programming track, although the lights get brighter when I turn the throttle, it doesn't go anywhere. Any ideas?

My Farish VT is the same, I've been waiting for a repsonse from Bachmann for 4 days now, so will post in my thread when I know what the problem is
Mine is fitted with a Bachmann 36-558 and the decoder works in everything else, so it suggests the PCB is at fault

3) I've also got a Farish Class 57, and this doesn't have 'plug-and-play' like the Voyager, and I'm honestly at a loss as to where I should be soldering what to where. I've attached a photo, if that's any help at all. From what I can gather, I need to intercept the two contacts going to the motor, and put the chip there?

This model should have come with an instruction leaflet
You're in luck I also have one, so can check which wires go to which number on the PCB
You must NOT use a 6 pin decoder, you need a hardwire one

[bigbob]

Thought i had a pic somewhere!



Thats a 66 but probably the same.

Pins from left to right..........

connector 8 red wire right rail pick-up
connector 1 orange motor connection
connector 2 yellow lights- direction 1
connector 4 black left rail pick-up
connector 5 grey motor connection
connector 6 white lights direction 2
connector 7 blue lights common


Bob

[bombastic]

Thank you for your quick replies!

Marcus - if you could let me know what Bachman say, that'd be great, thanks. And the leaflet was evidently missing from my Class 57!

Big Bob - cheers for the photo!

Apart from wiring up those wires, is there anything I need to do? (as in disconnect, de-solder etc?)

Cheers again,


Andy

[bombastic]

ooh, and what kind of hard-wire decoder would you guys recommend as the best out there? I'm looking at the Gaugemaster DCC22 'very small decoder', but was wondering if there were any (possibly cheaper) alternatives.

[bigbob]

Just remove those 2 clips in your pic where the decoder wires go, thats it. Make sure you put insulating tape on once you have done the solder connections






Thats a Digitrax DZ125 decoder


Bob

[m8internet]

As above, go for a DigiTrax DZ123 or DZ125
These are encased in heatshrink so no need to apply insulating tape between the chassis, decoder, and PCB once in place

Another note :
Preassemble BEFORE soldering
You will note that the decoder fits in the gap in the chassis, under the PCB, so the wires need to EITHER -
twist under the PCB
or
solder underneath

[bombastic]

Cheers for all the help guys - I think I may be a bit of a liability with this whole DCC stuff. As far as I know, I've successfully soldered all the correct wires into the right place for the DZ125, but it's still not working! When I put it on the programming track, the motor makes a buzzing noise as if it's trying to run, and this goes on and off in conjunction with the LCD screen on the controller flashing up '10'. Any suggestions?