Loco repaint - Striping and spraying step by step.
Loco repaint - Striping and spraying step by step.
Welcome.
Although this subject was covered a while back it seems that some forum users would like a refresher, so this is a rough step-by-step as to how I go about repainting my locos. Please excuse the mishmash of photo's but some are new and some are old.
1.
To remove factory paint I use a product called SuperStrip by Phoenix paints, I also have a stiff-ish brush to help the fluid in those small gaps and agitate the fluid as needs require. Wear suitable gloves (latex car gloves are ideal) and do it in a well ventilated area - it is powerfully smelly stuff.
2.
I add some of the fluid into an old metal baking tray (with high sides). I tilt the tray by putting something under one end so the fluid is kept at one end, this helps you to submerge one side of your loco at a time. The picture shows the power of the stripping agent.
3.
Once both sides have been treated to the agent and you have brushed off all the old paint, you should have a shell that shows the original plastic colour.
4.
Pour some washing up liquid on the shell and rub it quickly over the body. Wash in warm water and leave to dry. Once dried you can see if any areas need further attention.
5.
Prime the body with a plastic primer - I use Halfords White plastic primer.
6.
Once the primer is thoroughly dry, think about what colours you will be spraying. You should spray with the lightest colour first and move upwards towards darker colours.
Mask off the areas to be protected from the spray using a modelling specific masking tape, such as the products by Tamiya,
which come in a variety of widths and have excellent low tack hold.
The picture shows where I have masked off the 47 and 37, firstly the yellow ends, then the grey roofs. Each masked up and sprayed separately.
7.
The colours can then be built up depending on the livery you have chosen. As I was doing a large logo livery I only had three main colours, so the blue would go on last - as it is a dark colour you can spray a grey primer as an undercoat for it. I use Railmatch paint and it can be a bit thin, so several coats may be required to cover the body sufficiently, hence the use of a grey undercoat for the dark colours can help reduce the waste of multiple top coat spraying.
If you have any questions I will try to answer them but like you I am not a professional and this is just my method. Many others exist and with a bit of searching I'm sure the internet will reveal further reading and help.
Although this subject was covered a while back it seems that some forum users would like a refresher, so this is a rough step-by-step as to how I go about repainting my locos. Please excuse the mishmash of photo's but some are new and some are old.
1.
To remove factory paint I use a product called SuperStrip by Phoenix paints, I also have a stiff-ish brush to help the fluid in those small gaps and agitate the fluid as needs require. Wear suitable gloves (latex car gloves are ideal) and do it in a well ventilated area - it is powerfully smelly stuff.
2.
I add some of the fluid into an old metal baking tray (with high sides). I tilt the tray by putting something under one end so the fluid is kept at one end, this helps you to submerge one side of your loco at a time. The picture shows the power of the stripping agent.
3.
Once both sides have been treated to the agent and you have brushed off all the old paint, you should have a shell that shows the original plastic colour.
4.
Pour some washing up liquid on the shell and rub it quickly over the body. Wash in warm water and leave to dry. Once dried you can see if any areas need further attention.
5.
Prime the body with a plastic primer - I use Halfords White plastic primer.
6.
Once the primer is thoroughly dry, think about what colours you will be spraying. You should spray with the lightest colour first and move upwards towards darker colours.
Mask off the areas to be protected from the spray using a modelling specific masking tape, such as the products by Tamiya,
which come in a variety of widths and have excellent low tack hold.
The picture shows where I have masked off the 47 and 37, firstly the yellow ends, then the grey roofs. Each masked up and sprayed separately.
7.
The colours can then be built up depending on the livery you have chosen. As I was doing a large logo livery I only had three main colours, so the blue would go on last - as it is a dark colour you can spray a grey primer as an undercoat for it. I use Railmatch paint and it can be a bit thin, so several coats may be required to cover the body sufficiently, hence the use of a grey undercoat for the dark colours can help reduce the waste of multiple top coat spraying.
If you have any questions I will try to answer them but like you I am not a professional and this is just my method. Many others exist and with a bit of searching I'm sure the internet will reveal further reading and help.
Great contribution Dave .
I'm thinking (very tentatively) of respraying a number of my blue locos to green so hope you don't mind a couple of questions ;-
Railmatch paints - acrylic or enamel ?
How long are you 'drying' for before masking up for the next colour ?
Moving on - what is your preferred source of transfers ?
Great stuff again - thanks
Ron
I'm thinking (very tentatively) of respraying a number of my blue locos to green so hope you don't mind a couple of questions ;-
Railmatch paints - acrylic or enamel ?
How long are you 'drying' for before masking up for the next colour ?
Moving on - what is your preferred source of transfers ?
Great stuff again - thanks
Ron
Hello Ron,live-frog wrote:Great contribution Dave .
I'm thinking (very tentatively) of respraying a number of my blue locos to green so hope you don't mind a couple of questions ;-
Railmatch paints - acrylic or enamel ?
How long are you 'drying' for before masking up for the next colour ?
Moving on - what is your preferred source of transfers ?
Great stuff again - thanks
Ron
Thanks for your comments. Railmatch = enamel comes in the spraycan which I used for most of my repaints and the range is also larger than the acrylics.
I normally wait at least a day before masking up in readiness for another colour, this ensures the paint has set nicely.
For transfers I use Fox as they have a huge range and are very helpful.
Hello Martin, Thanks for the comments.Martin71 wrote:Hi Dave
Excellent effort by you Dave, well done. I think it should get a sticky in the forum so it can always be referenced by everybody instead of always looking.
Do you have a spray booth and what type of air brush do you use?
Once again excellent job!
martin
I don't have a spray booth but I do have a large L shapes piece of card that I use instead. When airbrushing I normally do it in my spare room (where the layout is) with the windows open. I use a Badger internal mix single action airbrush.
When using spraycans I spray outside as the fumes smell and aren't good the other people in the house!!
The loco in 3 shows it all in the base plastic, is that what you mean?dr5euss wrote:Nice one Dave
I take it the plastic yellow ends is the plastic itself - not painted?
Is the paint stripper an aerosol, and therefore not reusable once swilled around the baking try?
The stripper comes in different sized bottles, not aerosol. When used, the liquid will lose some of it's power as it dissolves the paint. It also takes on a muddy colour due to the old paint pigments mixing with the liquid, therefore it is not a good idea to pour it back into the bottle with new and neat stripper! I have found that I can strip two loco's with about a third of a small bottle. It cannot (and should not) be poured down the sink and must be disposed of carefully.
Hope this helps.
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Re: Loco repaint - Striping and spraying step by step.
Hi Dave
Great article. I've recently done a repaint and can also advise Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner is very effective at removing the paint too. Cover the the loco body with the cleaner in a plastic or baking tray and leave for a couple of hours. This should remove the majority of the paint, then any remaining bits can be done with the washing up liquid and a brillo pad, or a second dose of cleaner. (Remember rubber gloves when spraying and washing off the cleaner).
Main advantages that it's cheaper, and her indoors should have some already you can borrow , and of course you can wash it down the sink when you're done. Mr Muscle shouldn't damage the plastic.
Great article. I've recently done a repaint and can also advise Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner is very effective at removing the paint too. Cover the the loco body with the cleaner in a plastic or baking tray and leave for a couple of hours. This should remove the majority of the paint, then any remaining bits can be done with the washing up liquid and a brillo pad, or a second dose of cleaner. (Remember rubber gloves when spraying and washing off the cleaner).
Main advantages that it's cheaper, and her indoors should have some already you can borrow , and of course you can wash it down the sink when you're done. Mr Muscle shouldn't damage the plastic.
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Re: Loco repaint - Striping and spraying step by step.
Dave,
Can transfers be applied straight onto a Railmatch Rattle finish, or does a Gloss varnish need using? If so, can you reccomend one?
Cheers
Can transfers be applied straight onto a Railmatch Rattle finish, or does a Gloss varnish need using? If so, can you reccomend one?
Cheers
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Re: Loco repaint - Striping and spraying step by step.
I applied the decals straight onto the Railmatch paint when I repainted my 57, but would recommend sealing the decals with varnish afterwards. The type you need will depend on the paint you use (don't mix acrylic with enamel and vice versa - always varnish acrylic with acrylic and enamel with enamel) and the finish you want (gloss, satin or matt).
Re: Loco repaint - Striping and spraying step by step.
I have started applying a coat of gloss before the transfers as it really does make it easier to apply decals. I then give the model a coat of matt or satin varnish. Railmatch or Pheonix do varnishes in a can.
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Re: Loco repaint - Striping and spraying step by step.
Is the Humbrol stuff worth using?
Re: Loco repaint - Striping and spraying step by step.
If you're confident enough to airbrush it (tinlet).PTmodeller wrote:Is the Humbrol stuff worth using?
If they do it in a can I would test it first.
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Re: Loco repaint - Striping and spraying step by step.
I was thinking of the aerosols, how do you mean, test it?
Re: Loco repaint - Striping and spraying step by step.
Spray up an old coach or wagon to see what the finish is like.