can get the stuff in a bewildering array of types, L, C, I section, tubes, rods, quare sections, truss girders, loads of itMountain wrote: ↑Sat Sep 13, 2025 9:05 pmDidn't know it is called styrene. I wondered what styrene was! I ordered mine from Blackwells of Hawkwell in the 1980's which was when I bought my little table sander at the same time to help make 00 gauge wagons with it.aleopardstail wrote: ↑Sat Sep 13, 2025 8:43 pm styrene is amazing stuff, can't get over the prices these days - but as with most things it can be had for a lot less going to "non-hobby" suppliers
very versatile, sharp knife & steady hand and its amazing what you can do with it
Llwyndrissi Halt.
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.
Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.
I have seen those...aleopardstail wrote: ↑Sat Sep 13, 2025 9:23 pmcan get the stuff in a bewildering array of types, L, C, I section, tubes, rods, quare sections, truss girders, loads of itMountain wrote: ↑Sat Sep 13, 2025 9:05 pmDidn't know it is called styrene. I wondered what styrene was! I ordered mine from Blackwells of Hawkwell in the 1980's which was when I bought my little table sander at the same time to help make 00 gauge wagons with it.aleopardstail wrote: ↑Sat Sep 13, 2025 8:43 pm styrene is amazing stuff, can't get over the prices these days - but as with most things it can be had for a lot less going to "non-hobby" suppliers
very versatile, sharp knife & steady hand and its amazing what you can do with it
Modelling On A Budget ---》 https://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/F ... 22&t=52212
Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.
The best way to mark out the floor is to use the roof as a template.
Modelling On A Budget ---》 https://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/F ... 22&t=52212
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.
trouble is you often need a mortgage to buy them. you don't need much of that and its getting to the point a 4k resin 3d printer is cheaperMountain wrote: ↑Sat Sep 13, 2025 10:27 pmI have seen those...aleopardstail wrote: ↑Sat Sep 13, 2025 9:23 pmcan get the stuff in a bewildering array of types, L, C, I section, tubes, rods, quare sections, truss girders, loads of it
Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.
Can you get a mortgage on styrene?aleopardstail wrote: ↑Sun Sep 14, 2025 4:51 pmtrouble is you often need a mortgage to buy them. you don't need much of that and its getting to the point a 4k resin 3d printer is cheaperMountain wrote: ↑Sat Sep 13, 2025 10:27 pmI have seen those...aleopardstail wrote: ↑Sat Sep 13, 2025 9:23 pm
can get the stuff in a bewildering array of types, L, C, I section, tubes, rods, quare sections, truss girders, loads of it
Modelling On A Budget ---》 https://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/F ... 22&t=52212
Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.
I realized that the floor needs to be slightly narrower than the roof, BUT I have a cunning plan!

(Is actually easier when one has made things slightly too large which I sometimes do on purpose, as one can file or sand parts to fit).
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Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.
totally agree on fractionally oversized then sand to fit
Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.
I discovered a while ago that trying to cut things to exact size is harder than cutting them slightly oversize and then sanding them back to a perfect fit. A miniature electric sanding table makes it easy.Mountain wrote:
Is actually easier when one has made things slightly too large which I sometimes do on purpose, as one can file or sand parts to fit
Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.
I have a Minicraft mini table sander.Phred wrote: ↑Sun Sep 14, 2025 9:52 pmI discovered a while ago that trying to cut things to exact size is harder than cutting them slightly oversize and then sanding them back to a perfect fit. A miniature electric sanding table makes it easy.Mountain wrote:
Is actually easier when one has made things slightly too large which I sometimes do on purpose, as one can file or sand parts to fit
Modelling On A Budget ---》 https://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/F ... 22&t=52212
Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.
Back To Droploops.
I thought it is an idea to help people along by sharing small details about the drop loops that I may not have shared before, and after I will also explore how to expand and improve them if desired. (Most of you are more than familiar with the simple principle behind them).
First a basic look at the component materials used. One can have a choice of a gold colour or a silver colour for the drawing pins (Thumb tacks). It is personal choice. Silver can look better if the paint over the buffer wears through with buffers colliding, while gold may give an alternative look for those wanting to represent a more interesting approach which reminds me of a Wrenn/Hornby Dublo style look.
The plastic straws act as buffer collars and are positioned touching the bufferbeam and not touching the buffer head. They sit on the shift of the buffer. I didn't explain this well on the diagrams below. The thin straws come with spray oil cans such as WD40, GT85 etc.
Wire can be used instead of the clothes fasteners, though the clothes fasteners make it easier. (These are also called "Hooks and eyes" and are found in sewing or knitting shops). The fasteners are straightened out but leave the loops as loops. One then cuts down the middle to create drop loop hinges.
The drop loops themselves need to clear the lower part drawing pin buffers when they swing up and also need to clear the track. Drop loops are made from paper clips opened out or similar stiff wire. I have found wider drop loops allow for sharper curves. If one wants realism, the drop loop idea came by studying "Break away" chains used on railways like the Glyn Valley Tramway (Or Welshpool & Llanfair?) in the past one can make them resemble a pair of chains especially if one blacken the horizontal part of the bar.
In regards to these drop loop couplings, if awkward shape waggons or carriages may have bodies which would fowl on corners, one can prorude the centre par of the bufferbeam out and add length to the drop loop hinges to widen the gap between vehicles. Drop loop couplings normally couple vehicles fairly close to each other giving one a generally more prototypical look when coupled.
I have also drawn diagrams though I was thinking if I should write a book,? As I was wondering if a book on the subject including various projects would be an idea as one can then have the ideas in print form with clearer sizes etc for simple projects if one wants to have a go? Is just an idea, and maybe in a tidied up form like this? (Excuse the envilope and the hastily drawn drawings).
I thought it is an idea to help people along by sharing small details about the drop loops that I may not have shared before, and after I will also explore how to expand and improve them if desired. (Most of you are more than familiar with the simple principle behind them).
First a basic look at the component materials used. One can have a choice of a gold colour or a silver colour for the drawing pins (Thumb tacks). It is personal choice. Silver can look better if the paint over the buffer wears through with buffers colliding, while gold may give an alternative look for those wanting to represent a more interesting approach which reminds me of a Wrenn/Hornby Dublo style look.
The plastic straws act as buffer collars and are positioned touching the bufferbeam and not touching the buffer head. They sit on the shift of the buffer. I didn't explain this well on the diagrams below. The thin straws come with spray oil cans such as WD40, GT85 etc.
Wire can be used instead of the clothes fasteners, though the clothes fasteners make it easier. (These are also called "Hooks and eyes" and are found in sewing or knitting shops). The fasteners are straightened out but leave the loops as loops. One then cuts down the middle to create drop loop hinges.
The drop loops themselves need to clear the lower part drawing pin buffers when they swing up and also need to clear the track. Drop loops are made from paper clips opened out or similar stiff wire. I have found wider drop loops allow for sharper curves. If one wants realism, the drop loop idea came by studying "Break away" chains used on railways like the Glyn Valley Tramway (Or Welshpool & Llanfair?) in the past one can make them resemble a pair of chains especially if one blacken the horizontal part of the bar.
In regards to these drop loop couplings, if awkward shape waggons or carriages may have bodies which would fowl on corners, one can prorude the centre par of the bufferbeam out and add length to the drop loop hinges to widen the gap between vehicles. Drop loop couplings normally couple vehicles fairly close to each other giving one a generally more prototypical look when coupled.
I have also drawn diagrams though I was thinking if I should write a book,? As I was wondering if a book on the subject including various projects would be an idea as one can then have the ideas in print form with clearer sizes etc for simple projects if one wants to have a go? Is just an idea, and maybe in a tidied up form like this? (Excuse the envilope and the hastily drawn drawings).
Last edited by Mountain on Tue Sep 16, 2025 11:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Modelling On A Budget ---》 https://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/F ... 22&t=52212
Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.
The applicator tubes from spray cans...
Why did I never see them as modeling material? I must be slipping.
Good tip.

Why did I never see them as modeling material? I must be slipping.
Good tip.

Re: Llwyndrissi Halt.
Just edited a typing error. Yes. Those thin straws are useful. Not sure if they take glue well, but sliding short bits onto drawing pins does work well as they then look like bufferbeam shanks. One only needs a thin cut of straw to do this.
Modelling On A Budget ---》 https://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/F ... 22&t=52212