Coppenhall Goods (Late Crest) 00

[Peterm]

Yes, I like the scenery too.

[Dad-1]

Hi Tom,

I've been connecting this to your coupler 'problem'
I look at how far you've got and to my mind any attempt to use Kadee underboard magnets
would be a disaster.
They need to be directly under the sleepers, or with a thin cardboard/plasticard spacer between.
That would involve serious disturbance to your scenic work.
Between the rails magnets would work so long as no ballast keeps the magnets away from sitting
directly onto the sleepers. The other Kadee restriction is they need to operate on straight track,
not just straight for the actual uncoupling magnet, but straight for enough length to have your
planned wagon & locomotives on the same straight. If the loco is on a slight curve it takes the
coupler off the track centre-line, It's surprising how sensitive that is.

From a scenic point of view it is possible to work with just 1/2 a standard between the tracks magnet.
This just means that you have to be extra careful and more accurate with your driving. I did that on
Derry's Yard.

I really like your scene and wouldn't want to see it degraded !!

Geoff T.

[Tom@Crewe]

Thanks for the info and help.

I have set the magnets in and with all my stock being short where I placed magnet I tried to make sure I had pair of my longer wagons with coupling in centre of magnet and check they are in line most are a couple are almost be I am quite prepared to move them if needed.

I am just tinkering at moment and getting ready to strip down the layout, pack it all up ready for house move, we don't know where to yet be hoping layout will fit. (or it will be start a new base board).

[Tom@Crewe]

Intending to move house soon, No idea of the size of room layout will go into yet.

My layout started as DC and became DCC, points were seep's and became Megapoint controlled servo's and many other additions.
I could have wired it better, built it better and improve on mistakes. (For example, all my wiring is Black and Red, DCC, lighting, ambient sound, I need to use more colours) (better servo placing)

Saying all that I have decided to tear down the layout, pack it all away in boxes. Keeping as much as I can, then when we have move and I know the size of room and space required I will rebuild with all the better ideas and improvements.

I have always said I don't want a finished model railway I enjoy the modelling and overcoming challenges therefore I am looking forward to the new build. It will still be the same theme but improved.

[Mountain]

Shall be fun. Takes a while to settle down first, but yes! Fun!

[Phred]

Tom@Crewe wrote:
I have always said I don't want a finished model railway I enjoy the modelling and overcoming challenges

Amen to that! That's the #1 reason I have a model railway layout.

[manna]

G'Day Gents

I look forward to Mk 2. I've enjoyed this one.

manna

[Tom@Crewe]

Years to build - hours to strip.

Just track and backscene to go.

Just took up a 3 way point no damage, on flex track some sleepers departed rails but I don't mind as I plan to re-space sleeper's on New Layout.

[aleopardstail]

Years to build - hours to strip.

Just track and backscene to go.

Just took up a 3 way point no damage, on flex track some sleepers departed rails but I don't mind as I plan to re-space sleeper's on New Layout.

its it actually worth respacing sleepers? as opposed to say getting actually right sleeper spacing flexi? personally think it looks a bit weird, slightly narrow scale look. I see why its better visually just seems a lot of effort when you can get ready spaced stuff

[Tom@Crewe]

You can get ready spaced stuff

Where, tell me more please!

[Lofty]

Years to build - hours to strip.

Been there and done that quite a few times.

its it actually worth respacing sleepers? as opposed to say getting actually right sleeper spacing flexi? personally think it looks a bit weird, slightly narrow scale look. I see why its better visually just seems a lot of effort when you can get ready spaced stuff

Unless you are going to go P4 everything is a compromise. The sleeper spacing may be correct but the track gauge isn’t.

[aleopardstail]

Years to build - hours to strip.

Been there and done that quite a few times.

its it actually worth respacing sleepers? as opposed to say getting actually right sleeper spacing flexi? personally think it looks a bit weird, slightly narrow scale look. I see why its better visually just seems a lot of effort when you can get ready spaced stuff

Unless you are going to go P4 everything is a compromise. The sleeper spacing may be correct but the track gauge isn’t.

sort of my thinking, now if you make your own pointwork etc it can be worth it. seen some largely scenic layouts (New Junction springs to mind) where this has been done. to each there own really

[Mountain]

It can be a lot cheaper, but time consuming. (Also can be expensive if doing it via a kit).

What I recommend is to do it as a rough "Behind the scenes" point to experiment, as if one launches in to do a scale prototype, one may end up frustrated as one needs to kearn the basics and develop ones own style (As each track builder may approach points from a different way using their own preferred methods... Some start at the V. Others start with an outer rail and go from there... Some like me isolate the frog wing rails.. Some do not etc... (Also depends how large radius the point is and what the modeller wants to run through there! As my track curves are very sharp, and my rails are Peco code 100 which are heavier build than most would use for a 16.5mm gauge (0-16.5 instead of 00 or P4 etc) the blades don't have sufficient space to flex, so my blades need to pivot instead. Those building long large radius points with finer scale rail can let the point blades themselves bend so there is no need for them to pivot.
One learns what works best by experimenting! and rarely do things run straight away BUT one can (If using the soldering to PCB method) reheat and move individual rails, which is the beauty of building track by this method. One really learns what works and what does not work, so when it comes to RTR track and solving issues, one is already way ahead! And finally, point making is basically the cost of the PCB sleepers, thr rail and the solder and flux. (Use extra flux as the solder flows so much better when making track rather than rely on the flux in the solder)).

I recommend a behind the scenes point to experiment on as one can buy a PCB sheet and cut ones own thicker sleepers which can take more heat than thin scale ones. Why do this? Because one can then move rails several times while experimenting. The thin scale sleepers will be great once one has learned via experimenting!
Of course, one can use drawn out plans but the only downside is if we get everything right straight away via other peoples tried and tested plans, then we miss out on that learning curve. Is why self taught people that become experts tend to know subjects far better than those who have been to college or university and had their qualifications or degrees. Why? They are taught what works but have not had much serious experimenting to find out what does not work, and part of becoming an expert is the knowledge of what does not work so one can avoid! (Also self taught people remember their subjects better! Yes, there are safety things where certain things would not be wize to learn the hard way! So there isdefinately the case for being taught! But in general, trial and error stays with us and we understand things better! So if I was taking a course, I would want my students to experiment themselves first to come up with ways and ideas that work. Then various ways would be discussed. It is time consuming as it takes longer to learn by experiment, but it works!

So GO FOR IT, GO FOR IT, GO FOR IT AND EXPERIMENT! NOTHING IS WASTED except time and a few materials... BUT what you learn in experimenting is more valuable than GOLD!

[Tom@Crewe]

I have managed to save all my point work's for the new layout as for the flex track not so much as I said I am not too concerned about that.

All the wood ply, frame, legs etc are going to the tip tomorrow.

[Tom@Crewe]

We have had our offer accepted on a Bungalow so if all goes well my railway room is a Sectional Garage. 16' x 8'2" (probably outside dimensions) and of course 1:1 scale work comes first (Bathroom, kitchen, garden, decorating etc).

Garage will be sealed and lined, the up over door replaced, and the roof may be Asbestos!!. I have already made plans for all eventualities.

We have been told 12 - 16 weeks for completion. But the bungalow is empty, we are cash buyers, and both us and sellers want to be quick so who knows.

So hope to get garage and layout room started towards the end of the year.



I have not seen inside yet!