Ivor The Engine

[Mountain]

It is possible, but a few small things come to mind. The first is to widen the gauge slightly. Bufferstop suggested this in the past for sharp curves.
The second is to copy what I do when making track by using half rail joiners as point blade joints. Short points need jointed blades.

BUT how about using the Hornby 0 gauge point idea?

Or even make the points in reversed point fashion where the leading track at the heel end acts as the point blades instead?

Lots of ways around this... Even single blade points come to mind though may not like tight curves...

[Dad-1]

Started the construction process. I have loads of odd lengths of SMP track from which I've
removed sleepers, then slid on to try and stabilise the three legs where code 75 track 'wires'
are flapping around.
It's going to be a slow, 'hand fitted' to actual gaps, rather than try to follow any drawing. No
need for gauge widening as none of this is tighter than my smallest test half circle and they
work fine.
In a way I wish I had bought a second pair of code 75 track rollers as that extra two gauges
helps, but I'm using my pair of code 100 rollers. Although they're not a tight fit they do help
by keeping gauge past the working roller as I solder the sleepers in.
Here is state of plays at the end of today's session.



I still have no idea exactly how this will fit on the layout. The triangle and engine shed takes
up more space than I would like, but it is so important to getting the right feel.
All that's for later, currently it's just getting this made and working well with several of my
small locomotives that should mean Ivor will be happy !!

Geoff T.

[aleopardstail]

is there truly no problem that cannot be solved by refusing to admit its impossible and owning a soldering iron?

[Phred]

The impossible just takes a little longer.
Stare at it for long enough and...

[aleopardstail]

The impossible just takes a little longer.
Stare at it for long enough and...

I like Elon's quote about SpaceX "turning the impossible into the late"

[Dad-1]

Thanks for the comments guys,

I'm still in the "I have no idea" stage regarding getting working points. The switch
blades are all so short that even with code 75 bullhead rail it can't flex to any degree.
Being bullhead there is no anchorage for rail joiners to give a moving join. That is
unless I can solder Mr Peco's stainless steel joiners to the base of my rail ?

The easy answer and my original thoughts were just making one route a permanently
fixed way. that would cover 95% of any use - it's just that it would be 'Fun' to get all
working.

I expect there will be many months before Rapido will have production stock available,
this allows me the luxury of experiment time, something I quite enjoy.

Geoff T

[aleopardstail]

think you probably could get them working, would require making something akin to a "curved triangle" with a single pivot and both switch rails pivoted at the crossing, then with multiple tiebars to hold the required curve

weird one, check out "way out west workshop" on you tube, block making a 15" gauge working farm railway, he has some seriously tight curves and had a similar issue. only did one turnout this way, the others are kick switches, but the one he made works well

[Dad-1]

i must look at that.
Today I've been busy again and it looks like the standard turnouts may be viable.
I've got one sort of working - no tiebar yet, but I can push a wagon and a Ruston
through the two routes into the common crossing.
I'll do the other point over the next couple of days and probably solder in a copper-
clad sleeper tie bar. I'm not thinking of automation of any sort, perhaps moving the point
by hand with a 'lock' device each side of the sleeper to hold where required.

A pivoting Y might just work.

Geoff T.

[Dad-1]

aleopardstail,
How on earth did you find "Way Out West"
A real hoot, loads of dry humour and interesting engineering.
I suppose only a farmer could dream up some of those home made tools'


Geoff T.

[aleopardstail]

aleopardstail,
How on earth did you find "Way Out West"
A real hoot, loads of dry humour and interesting engineering.
I suppose only a farmer could dream up some of those home made tools'


Geoff T.

my you tube feed is.... unusual, first video was about the static diesel engine he has and the stuff he does with it

and yes his humour is spot on

[Dad-1]

Testing results.

First the buffer gap between my Roxey Mouldings SWB wagons with #17 Kadees
is about right. The little Ruston's also need #17's and here they are on one of
my very small & tight points.



Both conventional points on the track plan work, no frog juicers fitted but with
a little planned shorting I've had the Ruston run through under power.
The 'Y' is just never going to happen with bullhead rail. The distance from
common crossing nose to stock rail join is around 50 mm. I have just remembered
that there should be some Peco code 75 flexi left from laying The North Circular
track. I will dig and see if I also have some code 75 rail joiners to make a split
hinged joint. If possible I would like to have functional, particularly as the other
2 standard points work !!

I wonder how long before Rapido release production Ivor's, I do have a short time
to experiment.

Geoff T.

[Mountain]

Very nice.

[aleopardstail]

knew it could be made to work. trackwork here is all C75 out of the packet, you do have me wondering on trying custom track again though. mostly to save a bit of space in a station throat

[Mountain]

knew it could be made to work. trackwork here is all C75 out of the packet, you do have me wondering on trying custom track again though. mostly to save a bit of space in a station throat

It is worth experimenting to see what works and what does not, and it is all a personal challenge and experiment, as what may be achievable for one may be difficult to achieve for another BUT one can usually find ways around this which is part of the fun.

I built my track (Which again has been an experiment and I am still considering altering bits as I go along) without using a single track gauge as I do not own any. (I may buy some as they look useful). I simply matched the gauge width using a piece of 00 track instead. Thinking about gauge rollers or a gauge tool, I could make my own?

[Dad-1]

Not all sweetness and light !!

I have come to the conclusion that making a working Y on such tight curves is not
possible. To allow room for flanges on opposing tracks at the V the actual tightly
curved moving point blades will be approx 45 mm long, in that space I need an
insulating cut and an articulating joint.
Then of course we have to deal with a reverse loop effect where polarity of the
shed route and therefore the Y needs to change !! I was aware of the polarity
change and was planning on fixing something with the 3 frog juicer's switching.

It really is the mechanical problem of working with such short switch blades that
kills that part. Both standard points work well and the 95% use of the first entry,
will become 100%, so a waste making the second point ? Well not quite as it
should be possible to park Ivor (depending on actual size) just in the curve, that
will give an artistic parking option !!

Non-standard has a reason, 'cos nobody wants it, and nobody wants to try to make
a truly reliable version !! The fun of experimentation.

Now to make the two 'fixed' blades and make certain all the insulating gaps are
fully functional.

Geoff T.