Here's my Guide to installing Seep PM1 to PM4...End2end wrote:This is the bit I'm still really struggling with.Flashbang wrote: D) Seep PM1 to PM4 range are notorious for needing to be 100% aligned correctly under the point. So do ensure this and also do not over tighten them either.
I have already drilled 10mm holes under all the points tie bars before securing the track down, no problem there, and I also have a great tool for installing seep's accurately on UNBALLASTED track which uses the sleepers as well as the point itself to sit accurately on the track to drill through the baseboard with pilot holes for where the screws and pin go and also keeping the point blades in the middle (scroll down - https://www.spc-cov.uk/store ) so some point motors are installed.
But I ballasted some of my track before I found and bought the tool so it does not work there and I've always been rubbish at accuracy which these point motors need to work properly.
I just cannot find a decent "idiots" tool to install them accurately and correctly on ballasted track. I've tried the flipped, notched clothes peg method. No good. My accuracy in cutting the slots was useless. I've even bought this tool but it's still not accurate enough - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seep-point-m ... SwoWFfdJBC
Apart from lifting all the ballast on those points, I'm at a loss.
Thanks
End2end
Here is my take on how I have installed Seep PMx range under the baseboard. The main thing to remember is they are notorious for needing to be installed in line with the point above.
Note the PM2 motor doesn't have any change over switching. Only the PM1 and PM4 have the on board switch.
This is how I fix them to ensure the Seep is correctly fitted underneath the layout….
Lay point in its final position but do not fix it down. Hold the points moving stretcher bar in the central mid-way position and mark through the drive pin hole onto the baseboard top. Allow the points stretcher bar to move over and mark on the baseboard the exact centre line of the stretcher bar. Move point to the opposite direction and again mark that sides dead centre of the stretcher. Lift points and where the drive pin mark was made drill out a hole with either a 9mm dia bit or use a 4mm bit and drill two holes side by side then elongate them into a slot approx. 4mm x 9mm. Change drill bit to a 1mm one and where you marked the outer positions of the stretcher bar drill a hole on that line on each side - two holes of 1mm each outside of the footprint of the point. Now underneath the baseboard and with a pencil and rule, draw a straight line linking the two 1mm holes drilled previously. The line should also pass through the centre of the drive pin hole too. Make sure you extend the pencil line out beyond the 1mm holes by some 10mm to 20mm on each side. Now take the Seep motor and mark on its PCB its exact drive pin centre line, doing this on each side. Pre wire the motor if desired, as its easier to solder short lengths of wire (tails) onto its pads on the workbench rather than doing it upside down! These wire tails can be about 4”-6” inches long and they terminate in a three way (or six way where D,E & F pads are also used) piece of terminal block. Make sure “C” (Return pad) is on the outside of the three way, so as “A” & “B” pads are in positions 1 and 2 of the terminal block. Fix down the point so as it aligns with the holes drilled and its stretcher bar is in line with the 1mm holes.
Once the point is fixed down and before the motor is offered up, I place two “Wedges” in the point blades so as the point blades are held central (Wedges are just something suitable - bits of wire, matchsticks or whatever you have to hand) When fitting the PMx motor again keep it central/mid throw position. Then once fitted your motor and point will be equal for each direction of motor throw. Otherwise you are likely to install the motor more towards one way and that leads to operating problems.
Underneath carefully fit the motor so as its drive pin passes up through the points drive pin hole in the stretcher bar. Now I try and get some help, as a wooded clothes peg or Bulldog clip is clamped to the Seeps drive pin above the point holding the motor in position until its screwed in place. Carefully secure the motor with small wood screws, but ensure the previously marked motors centre is directly in line with the drawn pencil line. Do not over tighten the securing screws. Remove the peg or Bulldog clip and wedges form the centred switch rails and by hand underneath move the Seeps drive pin over to both directions, the point should follow and there shouldn’t be any resistance felt other than the points over centre spring pressure. Assuming all is good, secure the terminal block and connect the two wires into the blocks 1 & 2 terminal coming from the switch or lever. Connect the one common return wire into the 3rd terminal position. Power up and allow CDU a second or two to reach fully charged and then operate the point switch or lever for that point. It should “Pop” over each way with the switch but do all.
Cut the overly long drive pin off as near to flush with the top of the stretcher bar as possible. I use a old pair of largish side cutters and never use a Dremel as the heat caused can damage the plastic stretcher bar. There are also available special hard wire cutters but they tend to be expensive! A cheap pair of Pound shop or market stall wire cutters will do the job. Mine are 7inch type. Watch out for flying cut off pin ends though!
BTW.. The above is a copy of an email I sent to a contact a while ago, so I haven't spent ages typing it today!
The drawing shows the method above and below baseboard..
