kebang wrote:...Does this mean that the PWM controller is 'flickering' between the 0 to the 12v that is available from the battery...
'Switching' is the preferred term, either on or off. The voltage your meter is reading will be an average of 'switched on' 12V duration, and 'switched off' 0V duration: the value your meter displays will be dependent to an unpredictable extent on factors such as the meter's frequency response and sampling period.
Personally I wouldn't worry unduly about test running the new loco, as it seems the unit you are using works well. As a precaution try it with the body off and check the motor regularly over ten minutes. If it doesn't heat up, then you are good.
Our mains electricity is most unreliable, the typhoon that destroyed my last layout left our island blacked out for 6 months!, even before that 6 to 12 hour brown outs have been an almost a weekly occurrence. Because of that we installed 400watts of Solar Panels in the garden 2yrs ago.
These keep my 7ah batteries charged for the railway, as well as 200ah battery for the house inverter, It was pretty obvious that in these circumstances powering the controllers by battery was a lot more sensible, which is why I have been experimenting with the 12v Chinese PWM units. As it now looks like these do not provide smooth power or slow speed control I will try the 240ac units when they arrive. (Although the 240v ac they require will come via a very small car converter, still using the 7ah batteries)
thanks
PS is using a 6v or 9v battery for running in a good idea?
I suspect that it will be as advertised… Cheap and nasty. Hopefully it’s not.
Spot on Dave, it arrived the other day and in operation it is pretty much the same as the PWM controllers I've been experimenting with. Still waiting the arrival of the gaugemaster, which is currently progressing very slowly customs on Cebu Island.
Thanks
I still cant help thinking that 'lowest voltage' to move a loco is the wrong way to go. The best resolution is, let's say for argument, 9v-12v with a high rpm motor turning very low gears to give a stable creep. Lowest voltage turning a bog standard motor and gearing just leads to 'cogging' and unsightly movement.
Looking forward to the arrival of the Gaugemaster Dave
Agreed Centenary.
I don't think I have engineering skills to swap gears around in a loco. Plus there is the problem of importing spares. I need to try to identify which locos are good slow runners prior to purchase. Any suggestions on that?
(However I have ordered a mini gear puller in anticipation that I may be forced into remedial work!)
Thanks to all for your input and assistance
As for the Gaugemaster Combi, I use two of them for my Hornby Dublo 3 rail layout without any issues at all. If they can operate satisfactorily with 60-75 year old models (and that includes two with the old pre-war design of horseshoe motor), they shouldn't have any problems with more modern equipment.
Thanks for the reassurance Wolseley. I may have hit another slight snag. Still waiting forthe delivery of the controller but I've just received the transformer. I purchased this locally as I needed one that plugs into the mains using a 2 flat pin plug. (Philippines is Similar to USA, but 230vac) Its a nice heavy unit but I specified a 16vac output, I've tested it and its outputting 18.3vac. Anyone have any idea if this will damage the controller?
The PWM units which are supplied from China have an undesirable "feature", when reducing the output voltage they will have a value blow which they will not fall. Around 1.5 - 1.8 volts according to my meters. For this reason many of them have an on/off switch combined with the speed control potentiometer. I remember someone (may have been a tech person from Gaugemaster) saying that the only way to get the output back to zero was to switch them off, or take the voltage negative (which can't happen with a DC supply). I'm sure the no load voltage of the psu is nothing to worry about it will drop rapidly when start drawing some current from it. if it's running from an inverter your meter will give an inaccurate reading anyway.
Thanks Bufferstop.
My children arrived yesterday from the UK for a 2week holiday, Bringing with them a brand new Bachmann L&YR class 5 and a second hand Bachmann Ivatt 2-6-2. Both of these, particularly the Ivatt, with a 5pole motor +flywheel, perform very well with the PWM controllers. This certainly supports centenary's comments. Really looking forward to switching to the Gauge master!
kebang wrote:... a second hand Bachmann Ivatt 2-6-2 ...with a 5pole motor +flywheel...
Is this a split chassis mechanism? If so and you haven't had one before, search the Bachmann forum for general advice and things to look out for. The Mitsumi motor used in most of these is very good, and the lighter mechanisms like this one are pretty reliable if gently handled. (I had the slightly larger V1, and it was amongst the most long term reliable split chassis mechanisms.)
