Very Cheap Power Controller

[kebang]

These are the details of the power controller:
Operating voltage: DC4.5V-35V
Output current: 0-5A
Output power: 90W (max)
Quiescent current: 7uA (standby)
PWM duty cycle: 1% -100%

It will be connected to a 12v battery. Does this assist in judging how appropriate the reset fuses are that are available to me?
(I'm thinking that if the output current at 4.5v is 5amps then at 12v it should be 1.87amps? *I have no idea if this calculation is correct!!)

[Flashbang]

You should opt for a 1 Amp rated breaker or in line fuse. Problem with fuses is you will be replacing them every time a short occurs on the layout!
Hence recommendations for self resetting circuit breaker or a thermal Polyfuse. https://www.railwayscenics.com/11amp-30 ... -2310.html Gaugemaster also sell 1.0Amp breaker

[kebang]

Thanks Flashbang, link sent to my daughter so she can bring it

[kebang]

Cheap controller arrived and delivering regulated power to the track, so that's a success. At the moment I only have one loco, a hornby 0-4-0 tank. (The only loco to survive the typhoon). Under full power it runs fine in both directions. Running backwards it is very controllable with excellent slow speed performance. Running forward it demonstrates what I believe is called cogging? It starts and stops with little jumps until enough power is applied to run pretty much at full speed. Anyone have any idea how I can fix this?

[Bufferstop]

Differences between forward and reverse may be due to the meshi ng of the worm with the worm gear. A fraction back or forward of the worm on the shaft and having the motor shaft at right angles to the diameter of the gear at the point of contact affect the running. If the worm moves a long way forward or back when starting some adjustment is needed.

[Mountain]

Cheap controller arrived and delivering regulated power to the track, so that's a success. At the moment I only have one loco, a hornby 0-4-0 tank. (The only loco to survive the typhoon). Under full power it runs fine in both directions. Running backwards it is very controllable with excellent slow speed performance. Running forward it demonstrates what I believe is called cogging? It starts and stops with little jumps until enough power is applied to run pretty much at full speed. Anyone have any idea how I can fix this?

Check pickups, and then experiment with worm positioning as sometimes with those 0-4-0's, the worm can touch the chassis sides as they are close, and if they do, they will go fine one way but struggle the other as the winding of the worm screw may not like it.
On the newest type Hornby improved this with a very simple solution. In addition to the normal metal clip, they added some sticky type stuff to hold the motors securly in position, where older versions relied solely on their clips.

[kebang]

Thanks Mountain. Had the body off ,cleaned wheels, wipers but couldn't work out out to adjust or check the worm screw. Unfortunately no improvement. Was hoping this little loco was going to be the shunter of the little layout, but its not controllable enough for that. Never mind, my daughter is bringing me a brand new bachmann 2-4-2 and a 2nd hand (e-bay) bachmann Ivatt 2-6-2 when she visits in March, they might have to do their own shunting .