DCC plan query

[barney121e]

50 watt soldering iron - What for?

As i understand it, wiring, fixing droppers to rails etc.

[End2end]

Looking good.
Just a couple of more things..
I can't quite see how much space there is at the back of the layout but if the whole track can be pushed further back you'll be able to fit a wider platform at the very front where the station will be sited as per your plan.

Make sure you can reach ALL of the track for track cleaning.

DCC is more expensive but for a newcomer like myself, seeing all the electric's a DC layout seemed to have with all the isolating sections etc., it was a no-brainer.
Add to that even stationary trains all lit up. Magic!
I had an Inter-city 125 set when I was a child and the lights dimming when reducing the speed of the train was a bit disappointing really.
Thanks
End2end

[Suzie]

Thanks for all the information. Still torn between DC and DCC, especially with extra costs of the DCC chips but not totally out of the question. Any suggestions for cheaper decoders for older locos would be helpful...

Use Zimo decoders. They are £20 and you are not likely to find anything cheaper that actually works, and not likely to find anything more expensive that is actually any better.

When you have DCC you save on all the expense of a DC control panel and all the switching and wiring that entails, that will more than offset any saving you might make not buying decoders. That is of course ignoring the obvious benefits of DCC such as simpler control, better running, and lights and sound. A couple of decent DC controllers will probably cost more than a DCC command station anyway. The cost difference is minimal, but the time saved wiring is immense.

[barney121e]

Thanks for all the information. Still torn between DC and DCC, especially with extra costs of the DCC chips but not totally out of the question. Any suggestions for cheaper decoders for older locos would be helpful...

Use Zimo decoders. They are £20 and you are not likely to find anything cheaper that actually works, and not likely to find anything more expensive that is actually any better.

When you have DCC you save on all the expense of a DC control panel and all the switching and wiring that entails, that will more than offset any saving you might make not buying decoders. That is of course ignoring the obvious benefits of DCC such as simpler control, better running, and lights and sound. A couple of decent DC controllers will probably cost more than a DCC command station anyway. The cost difference is minimal, but the time saved wiring is immense.

Any idea where to get the £20 Zimo decoders. Couple of suppliers are out of stock, and cant see any on ebay

[End2end]

When you have DCC you save on all the expense of a DC control panel and all the switching and wiring that entails

Possibly, I'm just going to confuse the situation, but...
You can also have a dual system.
DCC for just running trains and a "hands on" DC control panel to control the points.
It just depends how you wish to do it.

Our good old friend, Rule Number 1. It's YOUR railway do what YOU want.
Thanks
End2end

[barney121e]

When you have DCC you save on all the expense of a DC control panel and all the switching and wiring that entails

Possibly, I'm just going to confuse the situation, but...
You can also have a dual system.
DCC for just running trains and a "hands on" DC control panel to control the points.
It just depends how you wish to do it.

Our good old friend, Rule Number 1. It's YOUR railway do what YOU want.
Thanks
End2end

Funny, was thinking Dc control for points. Just trying to sort out my soldering iron query. I have a 15w one which i thought was good. Got sent an email for a soldering class (which would be great as no experience at all) but asks you to bring a 50w or higher one.

[End2end]

Mine is a Weller 55W iron with a base station. Expensive.
I needed one that would take the workload of soldering 100's of connections a day, that is why mine is so powerful.
I have melted a bit of the odd sleeper with it (what a stench!! ) but I'm quite adept at soldering so make few mistakes.
Just don't ask me to build a brass kit.

I think the course might be generic soldering rather than intricate soldering (next to plastic areas for example).
In this case a hot iron, a clean tip, tinned solder points and quick workmanship is the key.
Maybe that's why they mention a 50watt iron? Higher temperature.

You can buy adjustable temperate irons. I'm not sure what and if they any good though. I'll leave that information to someone who actually uses one.
With some soldering Irons you can change the tips for a different shaped tip. Depending on the job your doing.

I must add...
Safety first -
ALWAYS USE A PROPER STAND.
NEVER LEAVE A HOT IRON UNATTENDED. If you are going to walk away from it TURN IT OFF.
I can't stress those enough.
Thanks
End2end

[Free_at_last]

I must add...
Safety first -
ALWAYS USE A PROPER STAND.
NEVER LEAVE A HOT IRON UNATTENDED. If you are going to walk away from it TURN IT OFF.
I can't stress those enough.
Thanks
End2end

Also, if it goes to fall off the bench don't grab the hot end.

[End2end]

Also, if it goes to fall off the bench

...then you didn't follow safety rule number 1.
Thanks
End2end

[Peterm]

Zimo decoder are sold by Digitrains of Lincoln. If you have enough space, the 20 quid MX 600 will give superb results. It can easily be connected to a Lais stay alive unit.

A 50 or 60 watt iron with temp adjustment and temp read out would let you solder to the rails quickly without melting sleepers. A low wattage iron takes longer to heat the rail which is when you get the melting.

[barney121e]

Zimo decoder are sold by Digitrains of Lincoln. If you have enough space, the 20 quid MX 600 will give superb results. It can easily be connected to a Lais stay alive unit.

A 50 or 60 watt iron with temp adjustment and temp read out would let you solder to the rails quickly without melting sleepers. A low wattage iron takes longer to heat the rail which is when you get the melting.

Thanks, seems like they are out of stock everywhere at moment.

[barney121e]

Also, if it goes to fall off the bench

...then you didn't follow safety rule number 1.
Thanks
End2end

Silly question, if i solder to the track i will have to remove a sleeper. How do i replace sleeper, or will i always have a sleeper missing?

[End2end]

You shouldn't have to remove any sleepers to solder the wire on.
Solder directly to the rail sides not underneath.
Keep the wire and any solder away from the rail top and inner side.

I found it easier to do this to each piece of track BEFORE laying it.

Perhaps one of our members have made a short video on the subject?
Thanks
End2end

[Roger (RJ)]

You can cut out a bit of the "webbing" that joins the sleepers together to make a space to solder to the uderside of the rails. Much nicer IMHO than soldering to the sides.

If you do solder to the sides DO NOT solder to the inner rail sides, only to the outsides.

[Peterm]

I marked the position of where my track was going and drilled a hole in the baseboard between two sleepers in the middle of where the track was going (in the four foot). I turned the track upside down and soldered the droppers to the underside of the rails and then fed them down through the holes. The wires can be completely out of sight once ballasted.