HUMBROL PAINT

[n2oo]

Paint doesn't cover in 'one coat' anyways. Regardless if brushing or spraying, lots of light coats build up sufficient colour density and don't obscure any detail.

[Dad-1]

While several light coats can be better it had also been possible to to get away
with one coat of 'old' Humbrol. I've done it on competition winning aircraft models.
Both spray & brush painted, I gave up on airbrush working due to the cutting back
and post painting cleaning needed.
I then moved to Halford's rattle cans for several colours and these very definitely
require several light coats, gloss white for anti-flash 'V' bombers in particular.

Regardless of ones approach to painting and everyone develops their own preferred
method it doesn't get away from the fact that modern Humbrol is just not good enough.

Geoff T.

[paule23]

While several light coats can be better it had also been possible to to get away
with one coat of 'old' Humbrol. I've done it on competition winning aircraft models.
Both spray & brush painted, I gave up on airbrush working due to the cutting back
and post painting cleaning needed.
I then moved to Halford's rattle cans for several colours and these very definitely
require several light coats, gloss white for anti-flash 'V' bombers in particular.

Regardless of ones approach to painting and everyone develops their own preferred
method it doesn't get away from the fact that modern Humbrol is just not good enough.

Geoff T.

Apart from being a little thin for some people why is the paint not good enough?

I'm just back into modelling and use humbrol acrylics for aircraft models. The paint works really well, and in most cases I thin it even more to get a nice, even coverage. Gives a really good result, and just as good as other makes such as Tamiya.

[Dad-1]

The discussion began regarding Enamel Paints.
I have never used Acrylics on models, just on my garage door
and that was crap as well, but a supposedly a good make.

Call it experience, but I know what I like.

Geoff T.

[paule23]

Aha, I never use enamel as I hate cleaning the brushes afterwards!

[Admin4]

Aha, I never use enamel as I hate cleaning the brushes afterwards!

I have a small tin filled with white spirit that i put the brushes in as soon as i have finished with them, when i am ready to pack away or reuse the brush its normally just a case of taking it out of the tin and wiping it down on some kitchen roll. If the colour is a bit more of a pain another dunk and wipe normally cleans it off.

The brass revell colour i am using at the moment is a pain to clean off as it seems to go stringy but the second dunk in the white spirit works.

I only have the tin filled enough to cover the ends of the paint brush as well & I change it fairly regularly

[Ironduke]

For cleaning brushes of oil based paint, a trick used by artists is to place a fine mesh metal strainer at the bottom of a jar of turpentine. The Bob Ross brush cleaning system in miniature. After washing the brush in this jar by rubbing it on the mesh, rinse the brush in a second jar then dry on newspaper or similar. The paint in the first jar settles below the mesh in the bottom leaving the turps above relatively clear and any paint in the second jar is usually fairly dilute. You can keep these two jars of turps going for quite a long time before the turps needs replacing. I usually just pour the first jar out into some kitty litter, empty the second jar into the first and refill the second with new. The kitty litter goes in the bin.

[Admin4]

Thats a good idea, the mesh would certainly help clean the brushes