Gorilla Glue

[Tom@Crewe]

For year's and year's I have been using Araldite epoxy and epoxy rapid along with various Super Glues I know how they work on each application and have had few failure's.

Now quite a few of the DIY outlets have stopped supplying Araldite etc and gone over to the more expensive Gorilla Glue it seems with more advertising on TV this has become the fashionable brand, I have also bought some of this product (their Super glue and 2 part epoxy).

I have used the products and after a few tries with each I have binned them. shhhhhhh don't tell anyone but they just didn't work well. I hunted round for a shop selling Araldite and they just work.

Has anyone else had similar experience??

[pete12345]

I've tried using Gorilla for a couple of repair jobs, and each time nearly threw it out the window. It's rubbish!

[Jaz]

Check out bargain shops Poundland b and m etc they will likely have old cheaper kit if your lucky local cheap shops even more likely but look at dates not that a glue should be an issue but turn and check it flows on two part

[Bufferstop]

Araldite two part may be a bit more expensive than others, but if you use it as instructed, (and do the cleaning properly) it works!

[FatController]

I'm a fan of the two-part Araldite - no reason to try something else and I can always find it in Screwfix, Toolstation and the like.

[Dad-1]

Like FatController I keep to what I know & understand.
No intention to use Gorilla, you see it everywhere because of
commercial considerations, Not because it's particularly good !!

The cynical old grump
Geoff T.

[Bigmet]

Araldite two part may be a bit more expensive than others, but if you use it as instructed, (and do the cleaning properly) it works!

Absolutely. Lost count of how much I have fixed with it, most of my usage is non- model railway.

Cautionary note: I had some left over from a domestic repair job, and thought to use it on a project underway to secure a 200g shaped piece of lead in a Hornby 9F boiler and smokebox barrel. When I came back to it a few days later the boiler moulding had deformed in the direction that gravity was acting on the lead. Presumably some of the adhesive components migrated into the moulding plastic, softening it.(Retrieved the lead, added more and cast it into a complete replacement boiler, using an Airfix 9F boiler to make the casting mould; casting box and sand provided by my late FiL who was forever casting light alloy for vintage car parts.) Now that was a heavy hauler.

[centenary]

Id be very wary of using Araldite on plastic parts especially moulded loco bodies. Plastic has different densities such as plasticard, which is quite hard and tough whereas plastic used for injected body moulds can be quite soft.

Araldite creates heat as it sets due to a chemical reaction in the hardening process. It wont be hot to the touch but the chemical process and setting time can create sufficient heat during this process to cause deformation of some plastic parts.

Unless you're ultra careful, for model making \ fixing, Id really only recommend Araldite for fibreglass and hard plastics.

For gluing plastics, Id recommend brushed on liquid polystyrene cemment. This moves along any joint by capilery action making a very strong bond as soon as the glue evaporates. Dont use the stuff in tubes for 'on show' delicate work. It will go everywhere you do not want it, excess will seep out along the join and you have virtually no control of its application.