opening up a diesel

[4472]

I have a Lima class 67 diesel and wish to separate the body from the chassis. I can see 2 screws underneath. If I undo them will it come apart or id there more I will have to do. additionally is there an instruction sheet available

[Bufferstop]

If I remember right the two screws hold in the ballast weight but it won't hurt to set it free. If it confirms to Lima's usual design the body is held to the chassis by a series of small tags which fit into slots around the bottom edge of the body. To disengage them you need a plastic "spudger" to gently prize the plastic outwards and some thin pieces of plastic to push in and prevent the plastic snapping back in. Once you have enough bits of plastic holding most of the tags apart the top should come away.

[4472]

Thanks, I will give that a go later

[4472]

So I now know what happens when an amateur tries. I did what was suggested and had 3 clips away from the chassis each side. I then pulled the top from the bottom and it exploded. I now have a rolling chassis with motor, front and rear seating, body, and two drive shafts. The motor is only held roughly in place by the wiring. There are no screws or holes to attach the motor. The reason I wanted to look inside was a mysterious rattle which is obviously the loose motor. I will now have to find a local expert to revive it

[Bigmet]

I would have posted 'drop it from 3 feet onto a hard floor, that always works with Lima; but you have already solved the 'starter for ten' question.

Reassembly, a diagram will help:
https://www.lendonsmodelshop.co.uk/pdf/ ... s%2067.pdf

[Bufferstop]

Looks like to accommodate the central motor they've moved the weight to the underside of the frame (logical) What isn't obvious is what fastens the motor clip to the frame, it would appear that someone had already attempted Bigmet's solution immediately before the motor started rattling around inside the body. If it is just reliant on the springiness of the mounting clip it would seem bound to happen at some point.

[4472]

Thanks all I will have a look in daylight tomorrow

[4472]

In daylight I realised that I tried to mount the upside down After inverting it I can see that on one side the clips that should hold the motor securely in situ are missing, hence the aforesaid rattle. I will clean the wheels and put it back together. Thanks for the advice and diagram. I may put it in the repair shed and buy a replacement

[Bigmet]

What isn't obvious is what fastens the motor clip to the frame, it would appear that someone had already attempted Bigmet's solution immediately before the motor started rattling around inside the body. If it is just reliant on the springiness of the mounting clip it would seem bound to happen at some point.

If any parts of the motor mounting are broken or weakened, I would resort to impact adhesive for 'restoration'. The non-critical alignment of the centre motor design mechanisms means that one can glue motors in too: with due care to avoid any adhesive getting insde the can motor casing, should it have any holes or slots in the casing.

I have seen models with this generic mechanism design on which it is possible to simply enough improve on what was supplied. Ideallly the motor shaft axis would align with the worm shaft axes on the bogies, such that on straight track the shafts coupling the motor to the worms would be horizontal and on the centreline. Some designs neglect this for no good reason, there is no internal obstruction to make it a necessity: if doing a repair I would be unable to resist making this improvement should it be possible.

[4472]

I put the big light on and applied a bit of pressure and bingo the motor snapped into place. Connected the drive shafts, put the seats into position and clipped the body back on. Now it runs ok with no rattles so it is now out of the repair shed and back to operational duties, and the replacement purchase money can go on something else. Thanks again for all the advice

[Bigmet]

Better and better, nothing actually broken, and it's restored to operation. I am always pleased to read of someone 'having a go' at repair; too often there seems to be an attitude of 'too difficult to even try', when the truth is our traction models are very simple considered as mechanisms.

[Bufferstop]

Sometimes the amount of pressure/force required for dismantling and reassembly passes what you think is the maximum safe level! Trouble is sometimes your assessment proves to have been right.

[Bigmet]

I feel that the helpful attitude is that the model is just an assembled kit. So it must come apart, and if something is deranged in the process, it will be possible to reassemble it.

Topping my awkward squad list:
Heljan class 16 bogies, don't disassemble unless essential; it' has the reverse of the usual simple pick up wiper mounting arrrangement.
Bachmann class 47, 2007 release, body on TIGHT! Correct re-engagement of both ends on mechanism needs several hours of calming meditation.
Hornby A3 2004/5 release, ample deployment of black tack inside resulted in the boiler mid joint breaking during body removal. Invisibly fixed.
Bachmann Ivatt 4MT 2-6-0, body attached to mechanism by paint on close fitting parts. It came apart with no damage - eventually.
Rapido Stirling single, tender top jammed on due to DCC blanking plug fouling the screw locators holding on the tender top. No damage, but significant interior modification required to allow decoder to fit by filing away the screw locator posts adjacent the decoder to obtain a loose fit.