Brian Kirby Uncoupling method TWEAKED

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One tip for those who have yet to do it is be sparing with the superglue - I've used cyanoacrylate and found it managed to travel up the coupling and gum up the box containing the spring!

I'll attest to that! I have had to replace one coupling as the hook glued into place and although I managed to free it it would not drop down automatically after that.
Thanks
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[kebang]

I\m afraid I missed this thread completely - which is a shame as one of my projects at the moment is to install the Brian Kirby system into my new layout. I ordered the magnets 2 days ago, they should arrive in around 3 weeks. My reason for posting is that I ordered the 3mm dia x 1mm depth. The posts here are indicating a much longer depth is needed. If I was in the UK I would simply test how effective a 1mm long magnet is & if it didn't work then order the larger ones. This approach will mean waiting for 6 weeks before I can start to install the system.

Does anyone know if I place 2 or 3 magnets on top of each other will this have the same effect as a longer magnet?

[Ex-Pat]

There's only one way to find out!

I prepared a small test-track - just a piece of 2" x 1" wood approx. a foot long with track attached to it.

I could then experiment with various spacing, depth and protusion heights etc..

Best of luck, and let us know how you get on.

[kebang]

Funnily enough 1 prepared exactly the same this morning - ready to experiment as soon as the magnets arrive!
I'm just trying to decide whether to order the larger magnets today so if the little ones don't work I'll only be delayed a couple of days...

[Bufferstop]

I used 3mm dia by 4mm magnets from http://www.first4magnets.com/, Their UK delivery is by return post. if you have 3mm x 1mm I would try stacking them, try two and three. If you get acceptable results use the ones you have, then order some 3 x 4 to finish the job off. I did try some 8mm long magnets but they are more powerful than necessary, I had to push them much deeper into the board as they pulled on the steel axles of the approaching bogie, dragging it towards the magnet and allowing it to decouple. In fact repeating the test with an unmodified coupler it held the axle so firmly that it stalled the loco.
This led me to experiment to see what effect the smaller magnets had on the train and with 3 x 4 magnets there was a slight interaction with the steel axles but not serious enough to affect running. This was when I discovered Bachmann used stainless steel axles which are unaffected by the magnets. (Their experience with KDs probably led them to adopt non magnetic axles.)

[kebang]

Since reading this thread I've been researching the strength of neo magnets on the net. The ones I've ordered are rated at N50. The strongest rating is N52. So hopefully one (or 2 together) will be strong enough (fingers crossed). A lot of neo magnets are advertised as N42 (or less).
I'll hold off ordering longer ones until I've tested combinations of what I've ordered.
Thanks for the info Bufferstop.

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A brief follow up on my endevours with the BK method.
I have been coupling / uncoupling and running around easily although I still need to tweak some of the rolling stock as they come apart over the magnets when being pulled across them. It FEELS to me as if they need some weight added somehow.
I do have some lead sheet that maybe be able to be used with my thinking leading me towards opening the vans etc and adding some lead stuck on some blu-tack (to avoid any damage to them) and maybe adding some lead to the under side of wagon loads I have made.
The problem is I don't know how to open the vans. Can anyone shed any light on this? They are all Bachamnn.

I have used PECO Setrack on my layout apart from one length of flexitrack so most of my curves are rigid in radius and I would say that on curved track (set track pieces, not flextrack on easier curves) they don't work so well as on straight track as sometimes one of the coupling hooks misses the other loop and can sometimes cause derailment.
Some of the staples needed a second slight bend halfway along the horizontal, although this may have been my non accurate fitting as it was quite a fiddly job so some stapler heights where they are glued to the dropper part are not quite the same.

Also, when installing I have superglue with a nozzle that I add just 1 or 2 drops to the coupler/staple on either side then lay the wagon etc on it's side diagonally at about a 35/40 degree angle so the coupler stays down and any excess glue will run down rather than up, leaving them to dry.
Thanks
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[End2end]

A brief follow up on my endevours with the BK method.
I have been coupling / uncoupling and running around easily although I still need to tweak some of the rolling stock as they come apart over the magnets when being pulled across them. It FEELS to me as if they need some weight added somehow.
I do have some lead sheet that maybe be able to be used with my thinking leading me towards opening the vans etc and adding some lead stuck on some blu-tack (to avoid any damage to them) and maybe adding some lead to the under side of wagon loads I have made.
The problem is I don't know how to open the vans. Can anyone shed any light on this? They are all Bachamnn.

Just bring this back to the fore to see if anyone has an idea how to open the vans to add the weight.
Thanks
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[Dad-1]

For me the main problem with the Brian Kirby method is that one is still limited to uncoupling at specific places.
KD's have the small advantage of being able to gently reverse onto an uncoupled wagon and push back without
re-coupling. Still however having the set uncoupling points around the layout.

I tried a quarter of a staple superglued along the top of hooks and using a shunters pole, somewhat more akin
to the way wagons were uncoupled. Here is a video where I was shunting using this method.

https://youtu.be/TaWdlHCzfMI

Subsequent thoughts are to combine this with the Brian Kirby method, having magnets set under the track in just
a few locations, particularly run-around loops. This can be achieved by fixing a Z shaped piece of wire to give magnetic
attraction from either the top, or bottom of couplings.

Geoff T.

[Bigmet]

..
The problem is I don't know how to open the vans. Can anyone shed any light on this? They are all Bachmann.

Just bring this back to the fore to see if anyone has an idea how to open the vans to add the weight.

There have been variations in construction over the years. Earlier productions a central screw and sometimes the coupler screws as well, then a central screw only, and lately the two screws holding on the NEM pockets also secure body to underframe. On these last it is often necessary to disengage the axles at one end to get access to the screws. Body detail such as the brake pipe may need to be bent clear to enable the chassis to be removed.

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Ahh that's brilliant. Thanks Bigmet Most are the new type bachmann stock so it was just unscrewing the coupling mounts.
I was "playing trains" today and the omission of any weight in some of the vans and wagons still attract them to the magnets so by now adding the weight is should fix the problem.
Thanks
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Body detail such as the brake pipe may need to be bent clear to enable the chassis to be removed.

Oh dear...first try I broke some details off. Lesson learnt, remove the axles from the OPPOSITE side of the rodding FIRST
Just doing some experiements, I noticed the wagons need more weight. I don't have appropriate scales to weigh the lead sheeting at the moment so I am not sure how much I am actually adding to the wagons and some are still uncoupling on the lowest speed seeting my controller can do so maybe a slight tweak of the offending wagons staples. Space is not at a premium in the wagons so I can add as much as I like really hiding it just by covering the lead with a fake load.
I have some "black tack" on a roll which I can use to secure the lead.
I have done one van so far and that seems to be working "ticket"-y boo
Thanks
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[Tom@Crewe]

It's a few years on for this thread but I have a question.

I have cut out a sleeper and replaced it with a 8x3x1mm magnet and added the staple to the coupling and it works (no surprise).
But the coupling has to be accurately stopped over magnet, to lengthen the activation area I added a second magnet (making sure polarity was the same as the first) but now the coupling only lifts as it reaches the second magnet but when reversing back is open over both magnets ?????

I also am using only one coupler as seen in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAEvvIw ... x=1&t=283s

Any tips how to extend the activation area?

[Bigmet]

Simplest is to use a single larger magnet. I use Kadee's permanent and electro magnets, no need for precision positioning.

(The trouble you are having is that separate permanent magnets don't 'sum' their fields neatly. You may find it is better to move them slightly further apart and arrange them in opposite polarities. Try a little experimentation.)