Airbrush Recommendations. How good is yours?

[Richard08]

Unfortunately I haven't found many photos of china clay wagons and of those mostly were black and white.
Here's my feeble first attempts without a decent prototype photo to work from - https://www.newrailwaymodellers.co.uk/F ... 05#p703597
Thanks
End2end

Good idea to 'distress' the lettering. In another thread using meths seems to be a popular choice for removing factory lettering, but that's not something I've needed to do so can't say. Though from a later era and not PO, there's a range of photos here that might help get a flavour https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brclayhood

[End2end]

AHH! That's where I may have been going wrong. Not searching them under the 'BR' label.
Thanks Richard. That will help immensely.

Just as a side note, my airbrush should be arriving today.
Thanks
End2end

[boxbrownie]

I’ve been through several (many) airbrushes over the years, from very basic like Humbrol to very expensive Iwata, in the end I have found a decent compressor is a must, doesn’t have to be the best quality but it’s must be able to deliver a stable continuous pressure without pulsing and getting low, as for the airbrushes let’s be honest here we railway modellers aren’t exactly commercial artists and almost all of us do not need the most expensive Iwata or H&S, they can be used for the most intricate shading and detail in artwork, rather than just “colouring” a model.

I have found it’s better to buy from the lower range of an excellent manufacturer than a more expensive copy of a better airbrush from China, the cheaper big manufacturer airbrushes will do absolutely everything we as modellers will need while delivering the reliability and ease of cleaning of more expensive models.

For general largish area spraying I use an Iwata Revolution M1 which is an excellent single action medium area brush, for much finer work I have a Iwata Eclipse Dual action which is better for fine detail and lines, they both clean really easily (which is probably the most important part of airbrushing) and “hold” nicely in the hand.

ps. When you look at the spray nozzles and needles of the cheaper Chinese type compared with the Japanese made airbrushes you really can see the totally different finishing surface detail on the metal, no wonder they clean better.

[Bigglesof266]

a decent compressor is a must

I have found it’s better to buy from the lower range of an excellent manufacturer than a more expensive copy of a better airbrush from China, the cheaper big manufacturer airbrushes will do absolutely everything we as modellers will need while delivering the reliability and ease of cleaning of more expensive models.

Spot on with these comments. I've been using a number of double action Badgers and Thayer and Chandler since rebranded Omni models for decades. I have a single Iwata. Iwata make fine airbrushes as do Tamiya for instance which are frequently rebranded Iwata, although I think they've introduced some rebranded OEM Sparmax into their brand to lower the price point. But, Iwata are expensive and one doesn't need to spend that kind of money to obtain an airbrush which will achieve a consistent excellent spray finish.

Best line of inexpensive airbrushes I've used and a brand I'd recommend on a budget is a Made in Taiwan Sparmax. IMPE of their product, their metallurgy, machined tolerances and quality is up to the task, will last, and the price is right. I'd buy Taiwanese Sparmax without hesitation.

Air compressors are so inexpensive now, if you can afford an airbrush, there's no reason not to have one. A ubiquitous AS186 under any rebrand is far better than what three times that would have cost two decades ago and more than up to the task. That's what I have used for the past decade.

[End2end]

One thing not mentioned in this thread is compressor pressure.
How, why and what should the pressure be set at?
Do you use the same pressure settings for weathering rolling stock or other transport items as oppose to colouring an embankment other larger area?
Thanks
End2end

[GeraldH]

I'm toying with one of these "Fengda FD-18-2 Mini Airbrush compressor, oil-free mini-compressor with regulator, filter and manometer. ". Anyone got one? It seems to have good reviews and at GBP 58 appears quite reasonable. Quite a few reviews mention that they've switched from the little plastic compressors which had proved inadequate. I'm only an occasional user and I've been using propellent cans until now, so this must be a step up and with some propellent cans now not far off GBP 10 each it seems a no brainer.

[Richard08]

One thing not mentioned in this thread is compressor pressure.
How, why and what should the pressure be set at?
Do you use the same pressure settings for weathering rolling stock or other transport items as oppose to colouring an embankment other larger area?
Thanks
End2end

Obviously I cannot speak for others but I just use whatever pressure the compressor (a good one that came with a cheap airbrush that never worked properly!) is factory set to - though I usually reach for the rechargeable one in preference anyway now. It works, that's all good for me. I don't use the air brush for weathering for more than a general 'dirt' effect, after that I use dilute paint with brushes and bits of foam (does 'area' rust on steel wagons) as appropriate. I don't use the airbrush for scenery after an early attempt revealed paint was getting everywhere it wasn't welcome. I guess everyone develops their own processes based on personal choices, what works for one may not suit others.

[TimberSurf]

One thing not mentioned in this thread is compressor pressure.
How, why and what should the pressure be set at?
Do you use the same pressure settings for weathering rolling stock or other transport items as oppose to colouring an embankment other larger area?
Thanks
End2end

It really depends on many things, size of nozzle, viscosity of paint, type of paint, amount of coverage required and personal preference!
A general guide would be between 1 and 2 bar (14 to 28PSI). Just start at the bottom end and increase a little if it's sputtering (but check viscosity first).

[End2end]

It really depends on many things, size of nozzle, viscosity of paint, type of paint, amount of coverage required and personal preference!
A general guide would be between 1 and 2 bar (14 to 28PSI). Just start at the bottom end and increase a little if it's sputtering (but check viscosity first).

For my personal equipment I can add more details..
Size of nozzle - 0.2mm
Viscosity of paint - a general rule seems to be the consistency of milk except with emulsion (a little thicker) which covers the next..
Type of paint - not sure just yet but definitely NOT oil based paints.
Amount of coverage - variable depending on what's being sprayed.
Thanks
End2end

[Bigglesof266]

Fengda FD-18-2 Mini Airbrush compressor. Anyone got one?

Just a later marginally different model of the AS-series made by Fengda. You can buy any of the Fengdas with confidence. I've had mine for a decade. Previously had an expensive American brand (& made) compressor with a tiny tank which was as underwhelming as its price was overwhelming.

If you're >50 yoa, that Fengda will likely outlast you and do a sterling job into the bargain for an incredibly affordable price. Three decades ago you would have had to pay a Prince's ransom for a compressor in its class.

[Bigglesof266]

How, why and what should the pressure be set at?

I'm using mine predominantly for 1/48 & 1/35 scale plastic modelling rather than repainting 00 gauge RTR models. IME over nearly 40 years, pressure is a variable which varies with the specific job. Fine detail camo work or broad coverage. Airbrush nozzle size i.e. F,M,L for simplicity's sake, and type. i.e. top cup gravity or bottom cup syphon feed. Then there's paint brand, type, pigmentation, formula and thinners/medium being used to take into account along with weather on the day.

For instance it's different for Tamiya solvent based acrylic lacquers with their specific thinners and whether I'm using a their retarder or not from spraying water based Vallejo with their thinning medium which again varies between Model Air's finer pigmentation and dilution vs spraying the thicker grainier Model Color(sic). Humbrol enamels and acrylics are a completely different ball game yet again.

Experimentation and experience with equipment and config is the only thing which is consistent and will reveal. Pressures vary from as low as 10psi up to as high as 40psi. Most jobs generally fall between 15-30psi give or take 10%.

I live in a hot humid clime, so most important is to use a quality chambered secondary water trap close to the airbrush end of the air feed hose line which you need to take into account in terms of drop in pressure delivered vs pressure read at the compressor outlet. I've used Sparmax Silver Bullets for years with success.

[End2end]

Experimentation and experience with equipment and config is the only thing which is consistent and will reveal. Pressures vary from as low as 10psi up to as high as 40psi. Most jobs generally fall between 15-30psi give or take 10%.

That's helps. Thanks Biggles.

I have another question on thinners.
I intend on making my own and I have most of the items to do so except, someone gave me some De-Ionised water thinking it was Distilled water.
Can this be used instead of distilled water or would it damage my airbrush?

In one of the videos I've watched recently a chap discusses using TAP water although I'd rather something purer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjJmRLifYik
Thanks
End2end

[TimberSurf]

The only issue with tap water is if it is very hard, the minerals in it may cause scale deposits (after many years of 24 hour use!). So realistically, any water will do. {de-ionised and distilled water should not have any minerals in them}. I use tap water with no problems.

[End2end]

Thanks for the reply Timbersurf.
I can now go ahead and created my thinners.
Thanks
End2end

[Bigglesof266]

Only just spotted this End2end.

I wouldn't personally use tap water for thinning water based acrylic lacquer paint for use in an airbrush. It rather defeats the purpose if you want a top notch job and have outlayed on an expensive airbrush, particularly one for fine work. The minuscule cost saving isn't worth it.

Why? A two reasons. A. there are impurities in it, B. it doesn't contain compatible miscibility or flow improvers. Where I live, out of the tap the water is like mud. Even though we use a five stage osmosis filter system specifically for for drinking water which does clean it up, the remineraliser does what it is supposed to too.

That said, you can use deionised or demineralised water without risk of your fingers falling off, model melting or anything dire. But, it won't result in as problem free and consistent a spraying experience as using a medium for thinning and spraying. Mediums have an ingredient added to alter the fluid tension and improve flow.

If you buy mediums in the larger volumes 250ml or 500ml usually and dispense them via a 17ml dropper, they go a long way and aren't expensive in Europe particularly. We pay a lot more in Australia because most of them ship from Europe. My other recommendation would be to stick with the same brand medium sold by the particular brand of acrylic lacquer you are using. e.g. If using Vallejo, use their medium. I tried skimping by buying Atelier, and it didn't work near as well as using Vallejo with Vallejo. OTOH I have used Lifecolor (sic) acrylic thinner with Vallejo, and it worked well enough. Ultimately it does come down to compatibility experimentation.

You probably already know this, but if using Tamiya acrylics use either X-20 or their Lacquer Thinners. Tamiya paints are a solvent based acrylic and aren't water miscible. Humbrol enamels, preferably enamel thinner but you can cheapskate with turps if you can stand the stench. Humbrol acrylics -just don't! At least not with the PRC manufactured tinlets which ended my association with the brand. The latest Humbrol made in Britain again may be OK. IDK. As always the caveat, YMMV.