Hard standing - Steam and early diesel era

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I am thinking about adding a hard standing area for one of my engine sheds to sit on and wide enough to encompass a parallel siding, but I'm not sure if this would look right.
Would a smooth concrete hard standing surface be used for the cross over era between steam and diesel?
Or would it be another surface perhaps?

One method I was thinking of is using matchsticks to encase the area and then pour in plaster (Tuffcast) to fill the void so I can work the surface into a smooth, flush finish.
What pitfalls or tweaks do I need to be aware of if I choose the plaster method? Especially any track running problems.

Have you added hard standing to your own layouts? How did you do it? Plaster or something else that will sit at track height?
Thanks
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[Tom@Crewe]

My Hard standings are concrete effect with some tarmac, printed paper on card. (from Scalescenes) Then some weathering powders added.

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That looks great Tom.
Can I ask, what is the product number of the scalescenes kit and do the sit shy of the rail tops for cleaning them?
Thanks
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I managed to find a video that answered my previous questions.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0GxYz1sROk

That product could be the way to go. The area is a large "L" where the hard standing would sit and with a bit of fettling the LX096-OO could fit.

What did you use to stick the textured paper cover on to the mdf please Tom?
Thanks
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[Bigmet]

I am thinking about adding a hard standing area for one of my engine sheds to sit on and wide enough to encompass a parallel siding, but I'm not sure if this would look right.
Would a smooth concrete hard standing surface be used for the cross over era between steam and diesel?
Or would it be another surface perhaps?...

Anything is possible, including ash, muck and fag ends much trodden down over a century or so. Concrete is definitely in use well before diesels began to appear. Plastic or card sheet abutting the outside of the rails, and with flange gaps in the 'four foot', is cleanest and simplest on straight track. IF going with plaster or any other wet technique, soldered connections to all the rails is a must, don't rely on railjoiners for conduction.

My Hard standings are concrete effect ...

Looks good, but never mind that, how did you model BR's prototype 'hovervan' so beautifully?

[Richard08]

I am thinking about adding a hard standing area for one of my engine sheds to sit on and wide enough to encompass a parallel siding, but I'm not sure if this would look right.
Would a smooth concrete hard standing surface be used for the cross over era between steam and diesel?
Or would it be another surface perhaps?
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I used DAS clay (white for preference, it's more workable than brown or grey for some reason) to get this effect. It's deliberately not completely flat, but could be easily sanded to get perfection if required. The flange gap was established by running the vehicle with the biggest flanges (as it happens my Heljan Western) over it when dry and gently filing/cutting/scraping away bits highlighted by tell-tale flange hitting clay marks. It's not normally visible, but that wall.... yeah. In the steam era the ground was mostly ash, which with years of use was flat and solid, to say the least! I believe concrete aprons appeared as a response to environmental issues - i.e. and spilled oil would drain into a sump to allow safe removal as opposed to just walking round it until it soaked in. As ever, photos of your desired period is the best reference. Also as ever, there are prototypes for everything!

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Thanks for the advice chaps. That puts my mind at rest knowing a hard standing area wouldn't look out of place.
Just for reference, here's the location for the hard standing. The 2 holes on the left are for the lighting wires for the shed that will sit only over the bottom dead end siding in the picture. The track above being an outside siding.

Thanks
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[Tom@Crewe]

Scalescene's do plenty of different surfaces. You can adjust the height to rail tops depending on what gauge of card you use.

https://scalescenes.com/scratchbuilders-yard/

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I used DAS clay (white for preference, it's more workable than brown or grey for some reason)

Great tip! Thanks Richard.

Tom can I ask, did you seal the weathering powders on the hard standing areas somehow?
I have a habit of hoovering the layout and if not sealed, it would vacuum up the powders.
Thanks
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[Tom@Crewe]

Once brushed in I find they don't more. Burt you can rattle can on some clear matt varnish

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Once brushed in I find they don't more. Burt you can rattle can on some clear matt varnish

"Burt" ?

burt.gif (1.7 MiB) Viewed 866 times

That's the look of a man who can't trace the layout's short circuit..... I know his frustration.

I have a can of Matt varnish. That will do perfectly I tihnk.
Thanks
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