Mentioned in another thread Id bought a modified Hall from Bachmann, described as digitally fitted but on sale for less than the non DCC fitted versions.
Well, it turned up yesterday, 24 hour delivery and Im delighted with the model. It is as described, pristine, slightly weathered. Whoever had it before has also fitted 2 footplate crew, 2 lamps on the front buffer beam and real coal in the tender. The box is also 'very good condition,' not that Im into that but, it's nice to have a good, clean box!' IMHO, it is well worth the £107 I paid plus delivery.
I havent tested it yet but it is fitted with a Hatton's chip and the old blanking plate is in the box. The only downside is apart from the Hatton's DCC chip instructions, the original Bachmann paperwork isnt included. Ive downloaded a very brief instruction leaflet from Bachmann for the model.
However, Im puzzled how the loco and tender actually fix together. The loco is fitted with a narrow metal drawbar and even in the original packing, the loco and tender are separate. The end of the drawbar that appears to go into the tender has a tiny hole, presumably for a tiny screw (hopefully still in situ in the tender) or small spigot (hopefully not because this looks an instant failure point due to its size!).
Does anyone know how the modified Hall, 2013 version loco and tend fixing is actual made? Is it a screw fixing needing the tender top to come off?
If the tender top needs to come off to join the 2, how does the tender come off? The exploded diagram I have doesnt give any indication of this and obviously, I dont want to damage it.
Modified Hall 2013 version loco tender fixing?
Re: Modified Hall 2013 version loco tender fixing?
This is the closest I can find for an assembly diagram, does it match what you have?centenary wrote:... how the loco and tender actually fix together. The loco is fitted with a narrow metal drawbar and even in the original packing, the loco and tender are separate. The end of the drawbar that appears to go into the tender has a tiny hole, presumably for a tiny screw (hopefully still in situ in the tender) or small spigot (hopefully not because this looks an instant failure point due to its size!).
Does anyone know how the modified Hall, 2013 version loco and tender fixing is actual made? Is it a screw fixing needing the tender top to come off?...
https://www.lendonsmodelshop.co.uk/pdf/ ... s/Hall.pdf
The drawbar to couple on the tender in the drawing is typical of many Bachmann locos, a narrow metal strip with two holes. No need to dismantle the tender, the drawbar goes through the slot in the front of the tender frame, and one of the holes can be engaged on a small spigot moulded on the tender underside. I first saw this arrangement on the Austerity 2-8-0, and it has been working perfectly since 1999 on this and several subsequent models.
Now while this is a good simple arrangement, unobtrusive because it is in the right place through the loco and tender dragboxes, Bachmann have not always implemented completely perfectly. I have been known to: fit a shorter DIY drawbar to couple at scale spacing (WD 2-8-0, Ivatt 4MT, BR 5MT); put a slight bend in to cure height mismatch (A1); drill a closer hole in the drawbar(9F, K3, A1, A2, B1); significantly cut back the rigid moulded intermediate buffers on the front of the tender dragbox to allow the ensemble to get around curves (BR 4MT 2-6-0, and most of the above already mentioned).
TOP TIP. When removing the loco body, this type of drawbar usually has to be removed once the securing pivot screw has been released, to enable the cab end of the body to come off. There's at least one exception (Ivatt 4MT 2-6-0) and may be more, haven't sampled the whole range!
PERFECTION!
From about the time Bachmann introduced the Super D and ROD they improved the design further, mounting the spigot under the tender on a screw locked slide. Now loco to tender spacing is freely adjustable to owner's taste. (OK the slide was wrongly positioned on the 3F, but it's the work of minutes to put this right.) Moulded intermediate buffers or plug in metal cast intermediate buffers may still have to be cut back or removed as applicable for scale spacing on occasions.
Oh <deleted>.
Some <deleted> 'designer' put a way inferior arrangement on the new V2 which (a) doesn't work and (b) isn't adjustable and (c) is visually intrusive and (d) will likely wear out pretty quickly and (e) probably adds a couple of quid to the price. At least I have a supply of replaced drawbars and can rearrange things to the way Bachmann started with...
Re: Modified Hall 2013 version loco tender fixing?
Thanks for this info. Yes, that leaflet looks the same as the one I DL'd from Bachmann's site. Good to know I dont have to dismantle the tender!Bigmet wrote: This is the closest I can find for an assembly diagram, does it match what you have?
https://www.lendonsmodelshop.co.uk/pdf/ ... s/Hall.pdf
The drawbar to couple on the tender in the drawing is typical of many Bachmann locos, a narrow metal strip with two holes. No need to dismantle the tender, the drawbar goes through the slot in the front of the tender frame, and one of the holes can be engaged on a small spigot moulded on the tender underside. I first saw this arrangement on the Austerity 2-8-0, and it has been working perfectly since 1999 on this and several subsequent models.
Now while this is a good simple arrangement, unobtrusive because it is in the right place through the loco and tender dragboxes, Bachmann have not always implemented completely perfectly. I have been known to: fit a shorter DIY drawbar to couple at scale spacing (WD 2-8-0, Ivatt 4MT, BR 5MT); put a slight bend in to cure height mismatch (A1); drill a closer hole in the drawbar(9F, K3, A1, A2, B1); significantly cut back the rigid moulded intermediate buffers on the front of the tender dragbox to allow the ensemble to get around curves (BR 4MT 2-6-0, and most of the above already mentioned).
TOP TIP. When removing the loco body, this type of drawbar usually has to be removed once the securing pivot screw has been released, to enable the cab end of the body to come off. There's at least one exception (Ivatt 4MT 2-6-0) and may be more, haven't sampled the whole range!
PERFECTION!
From about the time Bachmann introduced the Super D and ROD they improved the design further, mounting the spigot under the tender on a screw locked slide. Now loco to tender spacing is freely adjustable to owner's taste. (OK the slide was wrongly positioned on the 3F, but it's the work of minutes to put this right.) Moulded intermediate buffers or plug in metal cast intermediate buffers may still have to be cut back or removed as applicable for scale spacing on occasions.
Oh <deleted>.
Some <deleted> 'designer' put a way inferior arrangement on the new V2 which (a) doesn't work and (b) isn't adjustable and (c) is visually intrusive and (d) will likely wear out pretty quickly and (e) probably adds a couple of quid to the price. At least I have a supply of replaced drawbars and can rearrange things to the way Bachmann started with...
Re: Modified Hall 2013 version loco tender fixing?
Ah, that's reminded me of another adaption for this loco to tender linkage, which sometimes needs the tender top off!centenary wrote:... Yes, that leaflet looks the same as the one I DL'd from Bachmann's site. Good to know I dont have to dismantle the tender!
If you want a position different from that which the moulded spigot and holes don't provide, or you like the idea of a semi-permanent connection; then cut the little plastic spigot off, and secure with a self tapper into the tender underside. Simple enough but sometimes the self tapper won't go in because the point runs into the tender ballast weight which is steel. So then the tender top comes off, and the securing screw at the front of the ballast weight is removed, and the rear one slacked off, so that the self tapper can go in lifting the ballast weight slightly.